Cabrales of Vega de Urriello
The best beans are those of the 'granja' variety: thin, tasty and with higher protein content than any other , they are appreciated when they have little skin and are not mealy; They are smooth as silk. The beans are protected by the Protected Geographical Indication (IGP) 'Faba de Asturias' , and they are not only used in the fabada, accompanied by the classic compago (chorizo, smoked blood sausage and pork belly), but it is also customary to cook them with clams and even with andaricas (frying crabs). Some chefs, such as Marcos Morán, assure that for them to be tender it is better to use them fresh, without letting them dry out, but this modern theory is not accepted by all.
Another of the Asturian PGIs is that of the veal . In a land rich in cattle, it would be strange if there were not quality meat . This seal protects the Asturian breeds from the valleys, the mountains and the crosses between them.
The great Asturian treasure is cheese. More than a dozen traditional cheeses are produced in the Principality, to which must be added new varieties and other old ones that are being recovered. Of the blues, the most popular is the ** Cabrales ** (made with goat, cow and sheep milk), but the gamoneu It is an exceptional blue, at the level of the best European cheeses of its kind. With a deep, slightly spicy flavor and a slightly grainy texture, it is very elegant. There are soft, fresh, creamy, matured... Among the most curious: the ** Afuega'l Pitu ** ('burns the throat'), with a dense and drying paste, which is produced in the Narcea region and has gained fame thanks to the good work of the Rey Silo cheese factory; the casin , a recently recovered intensely flavored cheese; and the smoked Pría , the only smoke-cured that is made in the region. Kindest are those of Peñamellera, Vidiago and Los Beyos.
The best beans in Spain
VIDAL (Cámara, 77; Avilés; tel. 985 56 92 06)
Confectionery . It makes the best sweets in Avilés, with a long tradition and well-known for its products: cakes, tarts and all kinds of desserts. They are known for their good croissants.
AQUILINE CHEESES (Ángel Tárano, 1; Cangas de Onís; tel. 985 94 71 06)
Asturian cheeses and products. It is the oldest cheese shop in the Principality. There are already five generations selecting the best Asturian products: Geri cider vinegars, ice cider, bonito from the north, beans and compango...
CAPE BUST (Bust, s/n; Bust; tel. 635 59 01 49)
Cake shop . Modern and traditional sweets in this unexpected bakery in the village of Busto. Jonathan González is right with the Gijón cake or cream of rice with milk. Good croissants.
The downfall of all sweet tooth
GOURMET COALLA (Munuza, 7; Gijón; tel. 985 34 84 00)
Wine shop and gourmet products. Company specialized in distribution that has more than 3,000 wines and pays special attention to small producers. A reference in Asturias with an important assortment of gourmet products, both Asturian and imported.
ICE CREAM SHOP ICELAND (San Antonio, 4; Gijón; tel. 985 35 07 47)
Ice cream shop . It is a business with a long history, always attentive to innovation. Although the ice creams are a bit strange, such as the bean stew, oricios, cider or Cabrales, have been the ones that have made it famous and launched it in the media, its best-selling flavors are the classics: cream, meringue milk... Singular 'ice cream bowls' and exceptional whipped cream, which could be lowered sugar level appetizing assortment of Frosts tarts , with the Gijón as flagship.
VERDU ICE CREAM (Moros, 10; Gijón; tel. 985 34 11 70)
Ice cream shop . Founded in 1882, it would go completely unnoticed were it not for the long queues, especially at Christmas, for its handmade nougat . They also have desserts for celiacs.
Artisan ice cream and nougat
FAITH (Journalist Adeflor, 3; Gijón; tel. 985 35 16 51)
Confectionery. Traditional Asturian establishment, run by the third generation of the same family, in which the mille-feuille and puff pastries, really good . In addition, almond cakes and gijonés dessert. They have a wide assortment of cakes, chocolates, tea cakes and specials, all made in their own workshop.
THE BEACH (Corrida, 61; Gijón; tel. 985 34 33 28)
Confectionery . The whole street smells of butter, vanilla, cinnamon... They have been sweetening the lives of Gijons for 90 years. His specialty is the 'princesses', a marzipan sweet and yolk cream that is exported to England, the United States or Japan, and that the mother of King Juan Carlos I was passionate about.
THE MOTHER (Institute, 8; Gijón; tel. 985 34 59 96)
Food products. Fabes, verdinas, preserves, cheeses, sausages... It seems that time does not pass for this charming old grocer.
An old ultramarine full of charm
BUJ HOUSE (Mercaderes, 13; Llanes; tel. 985 40 10 72)
Asturian products. In the center of the city, it offers a good selection of Asturian cheeses, preserves, ciders, jams... To prepare fabada, fabes and compango –of very good quality– they sell vacuum packed by portions . A small gourmet emporium.
PEÑALBA CHOCOLATES (National Militias, 4; Oviedo; tel. 985 21 25 48)
Cake shop. Opposite the Woody Allen statue, this chocolate shop has been open since 1930 and has been owned by the Pidal family for three generations. Its shop windows are famous, but the best is inside this store of elegant marbles and with the name of a mountain . The question is why to decide: delicious pasta, brown glaze, chocolate cake, nougat (at Christmas) or their chocolates, of which they sell more than 90 kilos a day.
POMME SUCRE (Libertad, 26; Gijón; tel. 985 32 45 36)
Cake shop. Julio Blanco is the best pastry chef in Asturias . A puff pastry magician, with whom he makes wonderful croissants and mille-feuille . His modern patisserie is very appetizing, with individual desserts and assorted tarts. For the feast of All Saints he sells delicious wind fritters . The store has a tasting area.
spectacular croissants
CAMILO DE BLAS (Jovellanos, 7; Oviedo; tel. 985 21 18 51)
Cake shop. They were the creators of the famous ' carbayones ’, a sweet with a puff pastry base filled with almond dough and a bath of yolk and sugar; which then copied the rest of the pastry chefs. They make other delicacies, like 'duquesitas', biscuits , etc. At its Jovellanos street branch, they recorded scenes from the movie Vicky Cristina and Barcelona and an episode of the series by Gwyneth Paltrow and chef Mario Batali about Spanish gastronomy.
RIALTO (San Francisco, 12; Oviedo; tel. 985 21 21 64)
Confectionery . Cafeteria, opened in 1926, which seems to be taken from La Regenta. Ideal to go for a snack after walking around the cathedral area. Heterogeneous public, which gathers around hot chocolate and pancakes with mountains of cream. They are famous for their Muscovites ’ (Marcona almond pastes and cream, covered with chocolate), which are copyrighted.
CRIVENCAR (Águila del Nora Business Park, Parcela 2, Nave 1; Colloto; Siero; tel. 985 79 42 15)
Meats and delicatessen. It is the largest producer of meat and charcuterie in Asturias. Its products are used in Tierra Astur cider houses and in the gourmet shops of the same name.
The best meats in Asturias
** THE BISHOP'S ALQUITARA ** (Tiñana; Siero; tel. 985 98 58 95)
Cider spirits. It makes all its products one hundred percent naturally. The 'llagar' and the distillery are worth a visit. In addition to spirits, they make cider.
ARAMBURU (Gran Vía, s/n; Ribadesella; tel. 985 85 76 26)
Butcher shop and gourmet charcuterie. They raise and maintain their own livestock: tender and juicy meat and sausages of the highest quality. Asturian veal, red meat, pork tenderloin, homemade cachopo and Cabrales hamburgers are part of their offer . Great selection of gourmet products. An essential address.
_* Published in the Condé Nas Traveler Gastronomic Guide 2015, it is now on sale in digital format at Zinio and Apple. _ You can also download the application for Android and on the App Store completely free of charge and start diving into the Spanish gastro map.
*** You may also be interested in...**
- Markets to eat them: Ballasts
- Top 10 Asturian towns
- The six dishes you must taste in Asturias
- Five dishes to eat in Extremadura (and they are not ham)
- Culinary topics that are not true
- Asturias for foodies
- Gastro Traveler guide: all the addresses you need on your mobile
- The 40 photos that will make you lose your head in Asturias
- Asturias, a sea of legend
- All the articles of Arantxa Neyra