Szeroka, the street where much of the neighborhood's Jewish past is concentrated
It's a little after 8 in the morning and it seems that life in Kazimierz is finally beginning to wake up. The music of a Spotify playlist can be sensed behind the glass of a window with faded shutters. In front, a lady wrapped in a thick coat who accumulates almost as many years as herself, advances in our direction.
On both sides of the street, the doors of the shops are still closed. Many of them, in fact, will continue to do so until very late: are some of the pubs and bars that concentrate the nightlife of Krakow.
Upon reaching number 17 Józefa Street , a young couple rushes into a coffee shop. Its about Kolanko nº6 , where despite the fact that the day just started just 15 minutes ago, there are already people waiting. Great: we already knew that our brunch sense would not fail us.
Kazimierz, the district of Krakow named after the king
We hold the door before it closes completely and we enter the warmth of the interior environment. We look for a table next to the patio window, right where the sun's rays that pass through the glass are reflected, and we take off our coat, gloves, hat and scarf – the cold in these parts is a serious thing – before finding out what delicious food is displayed in the exhibitor.
Cereals, breads, sausages, jams, cakes... Okay: it's time for breakfast. And it turns out this mythical café in the heart of Krakow's Jewish quarter becomes a hive of people every morning.
Its morning free buffet, where you can have everything you want for just 6 euros, is the key. Many of the moderns of the area come here , manzanita laptop under the arm, to get some early energy while they check the mail –and the social networks, of course–.
The atmosphere is relaxed, cozy, and while we take the first bite of the croissant with jam that we have on the plate, we are sure that we could stay here all holy day. But no, that will not be the case.
Because it turns out that our clear intention is to scrutinize every last corner of Kazimierz, the neighborhood that was once a city.
And with city we almost fell short: founded in 1335 on the outskirts of Krakow by King Casimir III the Great –Casimiro=Kazimierz, of course–, this town received all kinds of privileges. So many that it ended up having its own town hall, its own market square and even two huge churches.
Over time, walls were built around it and it became, surprisingly, the second most important city in the entire region.
An ideal place to welcome, a century and a half later, both all those Jews who were exiled from Krakow by King Jan Obracht, and those who would end up fleeing persecution in the rest of Europe. Kasimierz then became the largest Jewish epicenter in Poland.
A walk through Kazimierz
IN SEARCH OF THE PAST
With a full stomach and history well learned, We jumped into the street to investigate. To discover. Along with Kolanko, Kazimierz himself is the one who says good morning to us since a modern mural, the work of artist Piotr Janowczyk , which decorates the facade of the neighboring business.
Accompanying him on the wall, four other historical figures , between them, two women: his own mistress, Esther , and somewhat more contemporary to us, the very Helena Rubinstein , great magnate of cosmetics worldwide and born in the neighborhood.
The curious portraits of her are just one example of the numerous urban art that will end up becoming a constant during our walks: as in any good modern neighborhood, murals and graffiti appear where we least expect it. You just have to open your eyes wide.
Now, with the streets much more lively and businesses running, we plant ourselves in the epicenter of Kazimierz: It is on Szeroka Street that a large part of the neighborhood's Jewish past is concentrated, but also the largest number of restaurants and terraces.
The key is that Here are three of the seven synagogues that are preserved in the area: temples that miraculously survived the most convulsive time: World War II.
The murals, a constant in Kazimierz
And now that it comes to mind, here is another historical note: as we said a few lines above, the Jewish community of Kazimierz was expanding over the years to the point that, at the outbreak of the great conflict, 69,000 Hebrews lived in it.
The Nazis did not hesitate forcibly transfer them to the Podgórze ghetto, beyond the Vistula , thus eliminating the cultural and folkloric hotbed that had been cultivated over the years. From there they would later be taken to concentration and extermination camps: only 6,000 of those Jews survived.
We approach one of those mythical temples in one of the moments in which the guided tour groups give a break. The Remuh synagogue is the smallest in the neighborhood and one of only two that continues to offer religious services in Kazimierz.
It is, without a doubt, the one with the most charm in the entire area. It was built in the 16th century and every detail, every corner is a little piece of history in itself.
Next to the synagogue, the old Jewish cemetery unfolds in endless monoliths guarded by smaller stones. It is the way in which the Hebrews honor their ancestors: the flowers wither; the stones, no.
The cemetery, from the mid-16th century, was completely destroyed by the Germans during World War II , although in the post-war period many pieces of those tombstones of great sentimental and artistic value were recovered. Today, when walking through its gardens, one feels a most special aura.
Interior of the Remuh Synagogue
On the same Szeroka street, two more synagogues: the popper , today used as a gallery of a cultural center, and the old synagogue , raised at the opposite end of Szeroka.
It was the oldest of all those in Poland and perhaps the least spectacular: it was even used as a warehouse by the Nazis, it suffered quite a bit of damage and has been largely renovated. Today it houses the **Krakow Jewish Museum**. Another museum, ** the Jewish of Galicia **, is just a few steps away.
It is hard to believe, walking through its streets, that after World War II and during the years of communist rule, Kazimierz became one of the most decadent areas of the city. In fact, it was not until the end of the 20th century that the neighborhood revived from its ashes.
And that was thanks, above all, to two important facts: the declaration of the Jewish quarter as Heritage of humanity by unesco in 1978, and the filming in its streets of Schindler's List directed by Steven Spielberg.
And what did that mean? Well, above all, bring history closer to the rest of the world and make them see the atrocities to which the Jews had been subjected during the years of Nazi persecution.
Many scenes of the Oscar-winning film were places and corners of Kazimierz. One of them, the stairs of a small neighborhood courtyard on Józefa Street , was the protagonist of one of the most remembered scenes – who does not remember that girl in the red coat? – and usually concentrates the curious.
Before we go for a drink –which you are already craving, right?–, something else: Kazimierz has also had throughout its history with great christian temples which are, of course, an important part of their heritage.
The Church of Corpus Christi, from the 14th century , was the first in the neighborhood; the Pauline Church of Saint Michael and Saint Stanislaus , in whose crypt are the tombs of some important figures of Polish culture; Y the Church of Santa Catalina , one of the most monumental.
The Church of Corpus Christi, from the 14th century, was the first in the neighborhood
MODERN LIVING IS IN KAZIMIERZ
And now yes: as well as discovering its most solemn side, what interests us to feel in the Jewish quarter is what makes it krakow's hot spot , how about visiting some of its most emblematic gambling dens and shops?
For shopping, Józefa is the key: shops as original and authentic as **Marka** –from furniture to costume jewelery or ceramics–, mapaya –stylish in their fashion designs–, ** Punca ** –impossible to leave there without buying anything– or Paon , They are wonderful.
And after shopping, we go straight to ** Hevre **, a cafe whose walls seem to be falling apart, but whose paintings preserve the essence of what Kazimierz was once. is found in a 19th century building and was once used for Jewish prayer. Later, it was a ballroom. There you have it.
Singer It is another of the mythical places that should not be missing on the route. Why the name? as simple as that the tables are these mythical sewing machines.
It is very popular among young people, who also often bet on alchemia : with its wooden benches and under the warm light of its candles, It usually hosts live concerts and is open until late at night.
hevre
Very mythical, by the way, is ** Propaganda , a bar open since the communist era ** whose walls hang hundreds of objects that recall that time long past.
When hunger is squeezing us, an ideal place to let ourselves be carried away by gluttony at its best is in Nowy Square. In the circular brick building that occupies the center –which, by the way, is an old slaughterhouse–, they prepare the mythical Krakow pizzas. Pay attention to the name: zapiekankas : half a loaf of bread covered with cheese, tomato, ham, mushrooms... And everything that the owner of the business can think of adding!
To give us a real feast of pierogis, traditional polish dumplings , will have to go to Pierogi Mr Vincent: his menu has up to 40 types of varieties.
Zapiekanka: the legendary Krakow pizza
Another great option is to go to ** Skwer Judah , a mythical park with some food trucks ** where you can have a snack under the watchful eye of the mural of Judah, Jacob's fourth son.
But if you're looking for an immersive experience, plan ahead: make a reservation at ** Klezmer Hois , one of the city's most traditional Jewish restaurants.**
It is the ideal place to enjoy an intimate dinner in a place that seems to be stuck in the past. Various rooms decorated with antique furniture and a very dim light transport us to forgotten times.
The best of all? Do it accompanied by a traditional music concert –every day at 8 in the evening there is one– while we try one of its most exquisite dishes: the "Jewish caviar" Leaving there without tasting it should be a crime. One of those little things to remember forever.
Skwer Judah, the temple of food trucks