Gastronomic Paris: Le Chateaubriand
I was wrong with Le Chateubriand and with Iñaki Aizpitarte . It's his thing to admit: I was wrong. Because I left 129 Avenue Parmentier happy, yes, but a little sulky about a bill that (first impression) seemed a bit excessive to me: €342 without great wines (at most, a Marie Curtain) nor dishes based on a "noble" product (what little sense it makes to classify the product around its supposed "nobility", all this) but rather asparagus, mackerel or artichokes.
Weeks later, the perception in my memory hit a 180º swerve : I was delighted . Why? Let's see: the one that for the most influential gastronomic magazine is the 21st restaurant in the world is not what we understand as a "gastronomic restaurant" ( nor does he pretend: he does not deceive anyone ) that is: no linen tablecloth (nor bare tables by great designers) or stiff beds or especially accommodating service: more of a racket, good dishes (no more), nonchalance and rock 'n' roll. Just a bistro. Just gastronomy. Just fun. "Only".
"If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris when you were young, then for the rest of your life she will be with you, because Paris is a party."
The asparagus risotto at Le Chateaubriand
The question in the air is the same as always : how do we value the price of a gastronomic experience? Beyond scandals (what a note, dear chefs: we are not interested), the location (obviously Paris is not the same as Matalascañas), the influence or that (supposed) historical value of the great houses... Why do we have the sense of unjustified price in some cases and not in others?
The haute cuisine sector seems to want to excuse itself **(guilt, perhaps?) ** alleging the high price of the raw material —I speak with the owner of one of the great product houses in Spain: “If this morning I paid €85 + VAT for a kilo of red shrimp from Dénia, how much should i sell it for? You have to add the salaries, the structure costs, the margin…”. In this case, the relevant restaurant puts it on the table at €140 per kilo; a margin not so excessive, and nevertheless the perception; many times, it is precisely the opposite.
This is not applicable to other luxury sectors ; I get the feeling that no one is scared when they set foot in Loewe or Hermès —a recent example, Loewe blankets (made in Spain, which sell for €790) have a margin that is close to 600% and I have not seen anyone shout to the heavens as so many (new) Santceloni clients do. Perhaps it is because in a traditional luxury brand the price of the raw material is not so decisive, but the values we associate with the brand , the " experience ” that in the restaurant sector only eBulli (€300 for the menu I was able to enjoy last year) , El Celler de Can Roca or Diverxo have touched with their fingers. The same ones with months on waiting lists.
At some point DiverXo crossed the line of the restaurant to be something else (a set of values, an experience, a milestone in memory) and as such, it is no longer judged by the same yardstick as a tavern in Barrio Salamanca. . David: shut up and take my money!
I was wrong, expecting from a restaurant more than what I found there : great creations on the plate (great ceviche or asparagus risotto) , love for a gastronomy without artifice, passion, character and life without composure . I was wrong, expecting something more (is there something more?) than being happy on a May afternoon in Paris.
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