landscape of tui with the minho
There is something better than a weekend getaway : a weekend getaway hopping between two countries . We are lucky to live with Portugal and we should take advantage of it more.
This is a proposal for a liquid weekend between Spain and Portugal: the water of the Miño, the Atlantic and the local wine will be our guides. Let's get carried away
The My no separates the south of Galicia, the Baixo Minho, and the north of Portugal, the minho region, two areas that are linked by bridges.
Be prepared to walk this bridge a couple of times...
Let's cross the bridges that unite Tomiño and Vila Nova de Cerveira, and Tui and Valença do Minho . We will do it several times and in the two senses If we are lucky with the tides, we can also do it in the ferry that connects Caminha and A Guarda.
These names are now strangers, but in about eight minutes, the time it takes to read this, already they won't be . And you will want to go meet them, because this area is packed with beautiful towns and villages, an interesting nature, varied plans and, as expected, good food and good drink.
An important fact: we will have to bear in mind that the time changes from one country to another and that will make the trip even more exciting.
DAY 1: A STATELY HOTEL, A HISTORICAL PROMENADE AND A RIVER THAT IS NOT LOST OF SIGHT
We start the journey in Portugal. Let's go to a place that has a sight that allows us to orient ourselves and understand where we are. In Boega, a hotel that is in Vila Nova da Cerveira , we will have a wonderful panoramic view of the river and both banks.
It's about a simple accommodation in their pretensions and so majestic as they know how to be, almost unintentionally, the Portuguese. Is a whitewashed 18th century mansion that has its own chapel decorated, to our delight, with many, many tiles . Both stone pools they are spectacular, decadent and are, right, in the terrace from where we are enjoying this view. Double enjoyment.
The views from Boega are impressive
We have already oriented ourselves. Now let's cross the bridge that will take us to Spain (first country break) . We'll go to You. It won't take us more than 15 minutes to get to one of the most interesting towns of the area. you have a lot historical weight and it deserves a calm visit that perhaps we are not going to give it on this occasion, although we will taste something.
Tui is singular for its jewish imprint, which is one of its great claims; here you can visit the the only Jewish house that is preserved in Galicia, Solomon House. Other almost obligatory visits are to the St. Mary's Cathedral (magnificent and almost disproportionate) and at Santo Domingo Monastery.
Let's go in search of Water . We found her in the swimming pool of the Parador de Tui. We are interested in your location, because it allows us to see the river and Portugal, and also its swimming pool which, like all of them, cheers the spirit.
This visit makes us hungry, so we return to the center of Tui to eat at Manu's Taperia . Here he eats a lot and with quality, as we will see these days. Let's ask for a table in the dining room with views of the Minho, whom we will watch the whole trip. To drink? Albarino . Here comes our first contact with the wine of the area. Tomorrow we will spend more time. But that will be tomorrow. Now , to sleep.
Getting lost in the streets of Tui is a delight
DAY 2: IN VINO VERITAS. AND IN BARNACLES, TOO.
If the first day the protagonists were the river and the pools , today they will be the wine and the sea. We will start the day on the Spanish side. We are going to San Miguel de Tabagon , where we will visit the Historic Winery of Santiago Ruiz .
And, as if to paraphrase Bogart: “Of all the Albariño wineries, why should we choose this ?” Because yes, because this wine is called "the father of Albariño" , although his biggest secret is that he is not an Albariño. Let's debunk this myth.
The Albariño is the most widespread grape variety in the **Rias Baixas,** and the best known of the five in Galicia. By extension, Albariño is called all wine that is made with 100% Albariño grape.
Santiago Ruiz contains a 74% Albariño, 10% Loureiro, 7% Godello, 5% Treixadura and 4% Caiño Blanco , ergo it is not an Albariño. Let's not get lost in percentages: we are going to enter this winery, whose façade is covered by ivy and will give us photos and likes. Behind this door there is something irresistible: a good story.
Look for this wall of ivy and you will find the father of the Albariño
Santiago Ruiz was a gentleman very modern. He was the first to use cold and deposits of stainless steel, when he had already retired, 70 years. This gives us clues to his passion for wine that he had. In his family wine was made from 1860, but for family consumption. Until the 1980s, when Santiago turned it into a business, he stayed behind closed doors.
During a visit to this place, Ruiz reveals to us what those “inside doors” . It is an opportunity to visit a traditional house, with its cellar and its garden. It's a lovely site, of those that you have to go looking for because they are not found by chance and that generate good memories.
the visit is free, by appointment, and there's a good chance I'll show it Rosa Ruiz herself, daughter of Santiago and continuation of this adventure. She sprinkles the visit with thousand stories, and one of the most memorable is that of the label. The map that you see on it is the one that her sister drew in 1965, to indicate to the guests how to get to your wedding . It remains as is and stands out among all wine labels.
Rosa is lucky to have a wine with her name. Not everyone can say that. The second (and last) wine from Santiago Ruiz is called Rose Ruiz , and this is a Albarino. her creator is louis freire , a winemaker who loves her work. Louise mentions the “adrenaline and the rush” of the grape harvest, which this year will take place around September 10-15.
The Historical Winery of Santiago Ruiz contains a good history
Listen to Luisa and Rosa talk about the towns and landscapes of the area it's hilarious. They themselves are part of that landscape. It is also listening talk about wine
- "Luisa, this year the wine turned out very well for you."
- "It came out, Rosa, it came out."
We want to extend this good taste of mouth and we go to a workshop that could only be here. Cousas of Bisavuoa make sweets and products with Mirabel. This fruit is found in Galicia and is, sorry for the gravel, a delight.
The workshop is run two young women who see how, little by little, the market for something like this grows. Is very small, simple and full of affection. There are no big signs announcing it; that's why we want to go.
This day is going to be very liquid, so let's go to the beach . Here we can choose between doing in Spain or Portugal . The Miño flows into the Atlantic and generates varied beaches , in which one travels a calmer and sweeter side, that of the river, or another more brave, the from sea. Fresh water or salt water, what a universal semi-Galician would say.
On the Portuguese side is the beach of ground , in Caminha, and in Spanish, that of dolly, which belongs to A Guarda. The excuse that Not every day is on the beach. Every day can be with the appropriate clothing.
Every day can be a beach day with the right clothes
For dinner, we will choose to stay in Spain. We continue with the liquid route, so we will have dinner looking at the water. In the Port of A Guarda there are simple places, and with some barnacles and scallops touching.
The town is dotted with houses of Indians and fishermen and it has that flavor (between worn and wise) that all the ports of the entire world. There we'll sit and watch how the sun sets with an Albariño in hand.
To sleep we will choose, for our own good, a nearby place like ** San Benito **. Its origin is in a convent of the century XVI and today it is a classic hotel and with sole Let's take advantage, those of us who live in cities, to look at the night sky that here is always darker and better.
To sleep, a haven of peace
DAY 3: SHOPPING AND VIEWS AND SHOPPING WITH A VIEW
We will end our journey between Spain and Portugal with a good portion of Portugal, where we will never tire of going. We are going to Valenca . When someone drops this name, the reply is always the same: towels.
Yes, there are great towels, but also gourmet and antique shops, buildings, restaurants and delicious and well-kept streets as only our neighbors know how to maintain them. Let's buy bedding and let's eat cod: it is an infallible ritual. we will move inside the wall, because this is a fortress city with a great defensive tradition.
The Posada São Teotónio (the equivalent of one of our hostels) can be a good end of route. It will allow us to have, again, views of the Minho and its two shores. This is a good closing of this liquid trip between two countries. The river separates us, but bridges unite us.