The best handmade nougat, what does it have to have?
Almond, honey and sugar . They are the three main ingredients of the classic traditional nougat, the one from Jijona (or the soft one, as we also know familiarly). When they add egg white to it, they get the Alicante nougat (or the hard one, as we prefer to call it) . Three basic ingredients that are found in large quantities in the surroundings of that Alicante city, where they go back to the times of Carlos V to find the origin of this dessert.
According to the ** Jijona Nougat Regulatory Council ** that supervises the Denomination of Origin, there are two qualities of nougat: extra and supreme. And both differ by the percentage of almond . The supreme quality soft nougat, for example, must have at least one 64% almond, while the hard must wear a 60% . These quantities are what we will find in the nougats that we call artisanal. And besides, it should always be Marcona almond.
Jijona Nougat Regulatory Council
However, when we refer to handmade nougat To differentiate them from the more industrial ones, we are not only referring to ingredients. The artisans are not only the most classic and traditional , because they can also have great varieties and the most unexpected ingredients, like the famous gin and tonic that he created Albert Adria for the house Vicens Two years ago; or the four that he has created for this Christmas of vinegar and raspberries, white truffle from Alba, Thai coconut and curry and strawberry. The craftsmanship and, by extension, the quality of a nougat is in the hands of whoever mixes these fundamental ingredients : the proportions in which they are mixed, the machinery and utensils with which they are made, and the time they are allowed to cool or rest.
As practical advice, the more oil that is released when opening the package, the better the nougat should be. And, in the end, if you want to know what differentiates an artisan nougat from one that is not, the best thing is to try it; and, specifically, in Madrid you have a choice between even historic patisseries:
LOOK HOUSE
Founded in 1842, it is a classic in the center of Madrid, in full San Jerónimo Race , whoever wants to try their historical and artisan nougat, has to go there and, most likely, wait for a long queue. But it will be worth it, just for the visit to the store and peeking into that window that is full of varieties, but still has clear bestsellers: Jijona, Alicante and yolk.
The key is in the almond
LHARDY
As a good local or visitor to Madrid, you should go to Lhardy for at least two reasons: **to eat their cocido** in some of the halls where 19th and 20th century politics were plotted; Y to buy his nougat and famous Christmas arms with as much history as the walls of it could tell.
THE OLD PASTRY SHOP OF THE WELL
Famous for its puff pastries since 1830, this classic pastry shop in the center of Madrid is also filled on these dates by admirers of its artisan nougat. In addition to the classic flavors, they have some like stone nougat that does not contain honey and releases less oil.
MILLOR COVE
Known as a neighborhood pastry shop and bakery since 1978, it is at Christmas when its fame spreads beyond its surrounding streets. For its artisan nougat of supreme quality, yes, with toasted yolk, cream and walnuts, Jijona, coconut... But also for its nougat and powder and, a little later, for its roscones de Reyes.
SAN ONOFRE OVEN
In 1972 he opened the first Oven of San Onofre , a pastry shop that is still in the hands of the founding family, the Guerreros, and who still bet on artisan nougat, always made with Marcona almonds. They sell nougat already cut from 12 and also in bars to buy by weight, from 13.75 to 39 euros . Hazelnut praline, chocolate, Cadiz bread, walnut and cream, cappuccino, truffle and pistachio are some of the flavors that they have in their showcases; and among the most special the truffles of madroño or chocolate and pear.
Oven of San Onofre
EL RIOJANO CONFECTIONERY
Founded in 1855 by Damaso Maza, Queen Maria Cristina's personal pastry chef , is another of the most traditional places in the center of Madrid and continues to receive hundreds of visits every time Christmas arrives. They go there for their traditional and colorful nougats, but also for their handcrafted Polvorones and for those other Christmas sweets that they refuse to see disappear. such as bocaindientes or gingerbreads.