This is the trend-setting neighborhood in China's least Chinese city
It's six o'clock in the evening central district of hong kong Or what is the same, rush hour in the financial district of one of the most densely populated cities on the planet. At that very moment, the hustle and bustle of thousands of people dressed in jackets and high heels coming in and out of the huge skyscrapers hosted by the multinationals they work for.
The Central subway station fills up. The cars are full. And while some go and others come, an organized chaos conquers everything and becomes strong: here everyone knows where they have to go and everything flows smoothly.
Here the thing is about architectural contrasts
But just a few meters away life goes on. No need to stray too far from those. large concrete and glass towers where Hongkongers and expats work hard to earn a living.
Very close, turning any corner, is a completely different world: that of the large shopping malls, the famous brand stores, the good hotels, the best restaurants, and a Soho full of possibilities in which to pull the card and enjoy the savings.
In a city where money moves everything and everyone, this is the closest thing to paradise. After all, dollars are there to be spent, right?
ACROSS THE BAY
But let's go first: Central is located on Hong Kong Island, facing Victoria Harbor and adjoining the neighboring neighborhoods of Causeway Bay and Wan Chai. It is that three-dimensional puzzle that arises on the other side of the bay when, camera in hand, we try to take the perfect —and typical— photo of the Hong Kong skyline.
to get there the most practical thing is to do it by metro, although if one prefers to take advantage of the occasion to enjoy the fascinating views, it is best to take the ferry that for only 3 HK dollars (about 40 euro cents) connects the island with the mainland. Do we translate it on time? Just 15 minutes.
Heavy traffic and people, lots of people, in the Central district
Once in Central, to avoid the -normally- dense traffic that takes over the road, we do use of elevated walkways that allow you to walk through the heights quickly and safely. Ancients trams, double-decker buses —the British legacy appears where least expected— and cars, lots of cars, make up the typical picture at street level on weekdays.
We stand like this, along with countless addicts to consumerism, in front of the commercial screens that on immense facades project attractive videos of their brands. We are talking about Prada, Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent or Ralph Lauren, all of them firms that have their space in Central. Its signs hypnotize, seduce and finally catch all those workers eager to jingle their credit cards. And it works, boy does it work.
Between one and the other, the hotel of hotels appears: The Mandarin Oriental represents absolute Asian luxury in what was the chain's first hotel in the world. With unparalleled service and elegance taken to the height of the exclusive, more than just accommodation, after almost 60 years installed in the heart of Hong Kong, It has become a symbol of the city.
As part of its gastronomic offer, two great wonders: man wah, a Michelin star that proposes a trip to the most classic China through the traditional cantonese cuisine ; Y pierre , in which not one, but two stars endorse the good work of the legendary chef Pierre Gagnaire , which includes in his letter some of his mythical dishes, such as the famous Grand Dessert.
Hong Kong's British colonial past can be seen in buildings like St. John's Cathedral
We come down from the heights —in every way— to put our feet back on the ground, where much remains to be explored. For example, discovering some other reminiscent of that British colonial past that still remains around here.
We found it in the st john's cathedral , an Anglican temple built in 1849 whose stained glass windows, depicting scenes from 19th-century Hong Kong, They deserve a stop by themselves. Next to her stands the Old Legislative Council Building , which with its columns and domes It served as a base during World War II for the Japanese version of the Gestapo. Sadly, many innocents were executed right here.
But like everything in Hong Kong, things are about contrasts. Of great cultural and visual clashes. And if on one side we have these architectural jewels from distant times, what do we find right next to it? The HSBC building.
A mammoth skyscraper designed by Norman Foster in 1985 and considered an enormous work of art of precision and innovation. In total, 52 plants that give shape to what is considered the building with the best feng shui in the entire city.
On the right of the image, the HSBC building designed by Norman Foster
And how is this? Well, Foster managed to not forget the precepts of this Eastern philosophy when projecting details such as in what direction would the angle of entry be, which way would it face the water of Victoria Harbour, because it is the symbol of prosperity; either How would the stairs be arranged? The thing is, yes, he did.
On Sundays, however, things change and the main avenues of Central are closed to traffic by order of the city council. So it is the huge community of assistants of Filipino and Indonesian origin living in the city that takes over the space. Thousands of women, with their picnic bags under their arms, spend the day among friends accommodated on any sidewalk or road, knowing, for a day, the owners and ladies of the district. Something unusual and fascinating.
THE YING AND THE YANG
Central, like everything in Hong Kong, continues to grow by leaps and bounds. It changes, modernizes and shows a new vision of the city while certain buildings, shops and even entire streets cling to the past, refusing to transform.
This is what happens in some of the pedestrian areas that are distributed around the escalators that traverse the district vertically. In them survive dozens of small street stalls in which the most authentic trades have decided not to cease to exist.
Hong Kong's Soho
It continues there, from who knows what decade, that old man who makes copies of keys in his dilapidated workstation, barely a room of two meters by two meters. Perhaps next to him there is a cobbler . Or a New's paper seller . Or maybe what is next to him is another position exactly like his in which another old man also faces modern times based on copies of keys. The wonderful thing is that there is work for everyone.
HIGHWAY TO SOHO
Do you remember what we were saying a few lines ago about those escalators straight to heaven? Well it turns out They are the largest in the world —800 meters long, saving a drop of 130— and start in Cochrane Street to reach, in its first section, the area that interests us: the soho.
This small Hong Kong semi-district suddenly appears between steep slopes and narrow alleys to give away an authentic oasis of Asian-style hipster atmosphere. Or maybe not: so many foreigners are seen in the area that if it weren't for details like Graham Street Market , a food market that ranges from dehydrated fish to fruits of unimaginable shapes and colors; either for gems like the Man Mo Temple , one of the oldest temples in the city in which to receive an appetizing dose of good Taoism, we would think that we are in any corner of the West.
And here businesses begin to take place with an air, let's say, more modern. In solitude, for example, the feminine fashion find the ideal place to spread inspiration through the most avant-garde proposals. A few steps later Goods of desire offers new and original city souvenirs designed by local artists.
Man Mo Temple, one of the oldest temples in the city
Just in front, the most flowery corner of the country uncontrollably catches instagramers who do not hesitate to photograph themselves in front of it without even realizing that the facade belongs to a jewelry store. To find it you will have to go to 52 Hollywood Road.
Between some locals and others, many bars and restaurants that advertise with great fanfare their brunch and happy hours Ideal to unwind after work. Also tiny terraces full of people willing to enjoy good talks and a dish of European flavors. Classified, Enoteca Soho, Iberico & Co or Motorino are just some of them.
On the other hand in PMQ, a former police station converted into a fascinating cultural center, there is room for small designers, kitchen workshops, artisans and some restoration. Even if one is lacking a point of relaxation, yoga classes are also taught. A place to stop yes or yes, even knowing that we will sin without remedy.
But not everything is eating and spending in Soho: here there is also space for art. The amount of murals and graffiti that decorate old facades is amazing.
One of the women painted by the artist Elsa Jeandedieu
The most outstanding? Well it's hard to choose but the set of old houses shaped by Alex Croft in Graham Street —beware, because there is always a considerable queue of people waiting to take the photo— it is a must. Also the different Impressionist-style works by Briton Dan Kitchener or course, the beautiful women of the artist Elsa Jeandedieu —In Peel Street, Shelley Street and Ladder Street you can see some.
If we think of a more 'interior' art, La Galerie Paris 1839 is a delightful space in which to enjoy all kinds of exhibitions, from painting to sculpture or photography, in an intimate and welcoming environment (Hollywood Road, 74).
To perhaps finish the tour, a return to reality to remember where we are: on pedestrian Cat Street, just 5 minutes walk from the PMQ, it's time to return to the more Chinese side of Hong Kong in a historic antique market in which, between imitations, old propaganda sheets, coins and books, maybe we'll find the best bargain to go home with.