Lantau: that other Hong Kong
We are not going to deny it: it is true that every time we come to talk to you about Hong Kong we describe the city insisting on its immense skyscrapers and in its crowded streets . We're talking about its endless neon signs, its chaotic traffic and those street food stalls that pop up everywhere and are the bane of the most foodie souls. And yes, obviously that's hong kong.
But now listen to us: forget everything described. Forget about that crazy crowd, traffic, double-decker buses and taxis everywhere. Forget the smells, those huge buildings and the noise that is attached to every big city. Because we're leaving, but no. And we explain: we stay in Hong Kong, but to show you that other face of the city that not everyone is aware of exists . Because sometimes we forget that, going a little further, the world changes for give us wonderful places.
HEADING TO LANTAU WITH MICKEY
Lantau is the largest island in Hong Kong and, where you see it, it gives for days of exploration. Located just 8 kilometers from Hong Kong Island, getting to it is as simple as getting on the Tung Chung subway line and heading to Tung Chung Station . 40 minutes of journey and we will feel that we have traveled to another universe.
Lantau's Walk to Glory (Buddha)
However, a little before the definitive stop, the little voice that announces each of the stations over the loudspeaker will warn that the Disney Resort Station has been reached. There the subway cars will be half empty:** the Disney fascination is what it has**.
Divided into seven zones , this theme park was created in 2005 in the image and likeness of its North American cousins but on a small scale. Not only is it much smaller in size, but also almost all its attractions are focused on being enjoyed by the little ones in the house. With its various roller coasters, her Cinderella castle, her Mickey, Minney, Goofy and even Donald , it is an ideal plan if the trip is made as a family.
A curiosity? Although the foundations of theme park They are built following North American patterns, there is something that, in the case of the Asian giant, they could not ignore: the precepts of feng shui had to be taken into account when carrying out their construction. In fact, it was so to the point that the entrance to the park had to be moved so that the shi would not go off the road and end up lost in the ocean . Those things that happen.
250 TONS OF BRONZE ON SIGHT
From Tung Chung Station you will have to get back on another means of transport. we set course to the world's largest sitting Buddha by cable car.
We opted for the slightly more expensive version of the nong ping 360 , the company that manages this attraction, and we climbed into a glass-bottomed cabin: yes, it may seem exaggerated, but that moment when it begins to rise and under our feet we contemplate the small paths that, cross-country, twist up the hill until reaching the desired Buddha , impress.
From a bird's eye view we take perspective on where we are. To the right we glimpse the take-off and landing runways of Hong Kong International Airport, also on the island and designed by Norman Foster . On the left, everything is green: the vegetation increases as we go higher. Suddenly, in the distance and between the trees, the figure of him appears: Buddha is waiting for us.
Disney in Lantau
With a yuanyang of take away in hand —that mixed drink of coffee, black tea and condensed milk so popular in this land—we advance among souvenir and handicraft shops that serve as a prelude to the monument. Several cows rest, in the middle of the road, as if tourism was not with them . There is no doubt that the rural essence is what rules here: who would say that just an hour ago we were surrounded by towering skyscrapers.
268 steps packed with people looking for the perfect frame for the perfect photograph ascend to the base where the Tian Tan Buddha , better known as the Great Buddha for continuing to hold, even almost 20 years after its construction, the title of the largest seated Buddha in the world. Hundreds of faithful come to this remote place to venerate it, but many more do it like us: as one more stop on their tourist route.
We reach the highest area to admire it up close: almost 27 meters high and weighing 250 tons, they admire a fascinating panoramic view in which the exuberant nature is the queen. Down there, the orange roofs of the Po Lin Monastery tempt us . Come on, come on: let's go.
The Great Buddha of Lantau
THREE BUDDHAS WITH TOFU
The camera went up in smoke trying to immortalize the beauty of this Buddhist monastery built in 1924 . To that date belongs, yes, the part that cannot be seen: the exultant buildings that we are allowed to access are relatively new. Red doors with wonderful locks, charming wooden windows and three shimmering golden Buddha figures symbolizing the present, past and future.
Candles, incense… and pilgrims raising their prayers here and there. The roofs, with pointed corners, are crowned by various figures of animals: the more figures, the more important the temple. And from what we see, this must be enough.
Squeeze the hunger and the pituitary takes us straight to the monastery canteen : Behind the counter, an endless number of vegetarian proposals wait to be gobbled up by those of us who swarm there. We do not hesitate and we get between chest and back some vegetable and tofu noodles that taste like heaven.
Po Lin Monastery in Lantau
TAI O, THE PEACE WE WERE LOOKING FOR
And just when we thought there was no quieter version of Hong Kong, here comes Tai O . to this little fishing village we arrive after a bus tour through twisting roads that reveals more and more amazing landscapes of Lantau. how much green how exotic . How much humidity!
The first thing that conquers the place is the almost absence of tourism, which seems to be more concentrated on weekends. The second, that cars cannot access the town: here the bike reigns over all things . We also fall in love with its locals, who stroll slowly through its narrow alleys and serve friendly people behind the counters of their street stalls.
We get lost on purpose without following a defined course, stopping at each door, each window and each chipped roof, those that add even more charm to the place. The ground suddenly transforms into a wooden walkway and leads us, over the water, between floating houses supported by stilts. This is precisely what gives Tai O personality: here the sea is a way of life.
On the exterior facades, above traditional straw mats , the older neighbors continue to dry the shellfish they catch. The sampans, traditional Chinese flat-bottomed sailing boats, appear anchored in every corner of those small canals that have earned it Tai O the nickname of the Venice of Hong Kong . Here there are no monuments or big claims: what makes this place attractive is precisely the way it is. A town that lives facing the sea.
At the other side of Tai Chung , an iron pedestrian bridge that connects Lantau with another tiny island just 15 meters away , the pattern is repeated. They say that in the old days to cross you had to get on a boat propelled through a rope by Hakka women, the most common ethnic group in the area . Facing the main canal and with the most wonderful views we find Only coffee : the place we were looking for to stop for a second. Sometimes it is necessary to sit down to internalize what has been experienced; to assimilate what is contemplated.
Tai O, the charming fishing village of Lantau
We sit on its terrace, built of wood, while the boats cross the canals. The waiter, wanting to chat, allows himself the license to bring us an old book of photographs of the town. The images show a Tai O in black and white that is not so far from what we have before our eyes . What beauty.
A slight breeze begins to be felt, the sky turns bluer and the sun begins to go down: it's time to go back. A bus and several subway stops later we are once again immersed in the maelstrom. In the hypnotizing chaos of the Hong Kong of always.
So we miss this moment of peace in front of the Tai O sunset. We have left behind wild sandy beaches and trails to venture into the mountains.
Lantau is much, much more. And that only means one thing. Yes, we will have to return.