We list the bonanzas of an unknown region
“I was in Babia”, was my response when, having just landed at the Carlos III University in Madrid to study journalism, a fellow Canarian asked me between Contemporary History class and Writing class where I had spent the summer (a first contact that is equivalent to to a “do you want to be my friend?” from 1st year of the EGB) . My answer surprised her so much that to this day she still smiles when she remembers it, because what for many is to live in a constant state of reverie or bewilderment for others just is to be in the perfect destination.
Snow in winter, delicious trekking through its emerald-colored meadows in spring, a scorching sun in summer and an autumn full of melancholic ocher tones, local cuisine and mild temperatures. Yes, this is Babia, a Leonese region, UNESCO biosphere reserve since 2004, quite unknown in the world of travel, and whose potential as a getaway destination It coincides –sometimes too much– with the little desire that those of us who enjoy its delicacies have for the area to be filled with annoying Sunday people or impertinent tourists.
However, I am going to do an exercise in generosity and professionalism, and I am going to list several of the wonders that make There was a destiny to discover at any time of the year (although perhaps spring is the most beautiful time):
On the way to Peña Ubiña along the road that goes up to the town of Pinos.
UBIÑA ROCK:
Even though it is one of the highest mountains in the Cantabrian mountain range, with its almost 2,500 meters high, its easy approach welcomes the hiker with open arms (about five hours round trip from Casa de Mieres, which includes from hiking to climbing using the hands) . climb to its peak requires a minimum knowledge of mountaineering or, at least, the company of someone who has them; and knowing how to interpret the landmarks of colors painted on the rocks.
It is important to know that when the fog sets in from Asturias, you should not hesitate for a second and you should go down immediately. We somewhat-clumsy-little-athletes have managed to eat a sandwich on high, although, yes, without being able to glimpse the distant city of Oviedo with the binoculars, as 'the elders' claim. Don't be surprised if you find Jesús Calleja going down his slope like a shot, It is not the first time that the Leonese athlete uses the rock to train before starting to record Desafío Extremo.
Views from the Refuge of La Lechería de Babia
TRANQUILITY, PEACE AND CALM
Although a priori they seem synonymous, it is my way of expressing the leisurely pace cubed that breathes here because it is true that active summer has its logical interest –with the nearby Barrios de Luna reservoir and its nautical activities or routes such as the Cueta-Torrestío route (passing through the Saliencia de Somiedo lakes with permission from the Asturians)–, but the watch the snow fall through the windows doing nothing but adding wood to the fireplace has its special charm , and it's perfect when all you're looking for is to escape the anxiety and stress of the big city.
I recommend the Babia Milk Shelter for such an 'activity': it is charming, with two floors, all glass, and in it, as well as welcome your pet with pleasure, its owner, Angel, will receive you with a cake and a loaf of firewood as a welcome token. Ask him without decorum for information about the area, he will surely recommend the most suitable route for your physical condition. For those who prefer something more standardized, and in the center of the town of San Emiliano, I suggest La Casona de Babia. you will love his neat glazed terrace, ideal for summer nights, and for smokers like me, of course.
La Casona de Babia, where you can ask for loin of foal off the menu.
THE FOY DAYS
Effectively, In León we eat foal and horse! Here we do not deceive with 'labels'. We know that this meat is perfect for its protein content, its delicate flavor and its absence of fat, and for this reason we defend an autochthonous race, that of the Hispano-Breton, as a sign of identity and pride for the mountains. And since in León we don't like that hypocrisy, we don't give more value to a colt than to a calf (I apologize to the vegetarians, but in our defense, if it's any use, the foals graze freely in the fields, so much so that on some occasions they are left alone for months either in Naves or on the slopes of Peña Ubiña).
Returning to the days, they are usually held during the weekends of November and consist of several restaurants in the area offering different prices for around 22 euros. menus where the Hispano-Breton foal is the protagonist. If you go out of season, don't despair, in the Casona de Babia you will find off the menu foal loin and in the Bar Mesón la Farrapona de Torrestío, from foal a la piedra to a juicy foal burger. An extra: in May be aware of their mycological days, are not always celebrated, but it is worth trying just to try the local specialties (when you discover the intense flavor of São Jorge mushrooms you won't want to eat others).
Your throne, in El Lucero, another of the rural houses of the Lechería de Babia.
LIVING IN THE BODY OF A KING:
I could go on listing millions of reasons why you should ** 'Be in Babia' ,** but I think that, for now, this is enough to understand why, as legend tells, this saying was coined when, before the question of where were the Leonese kings, always answered: “They are in Babia”, because even then it is assumed that they chose this border region with Asturias to escape the intrigues and stress of court (I am also aware of the explanation that refers to the reverie and homesickness that the area originated in the Leonese transhumant shepherds when their cattle were forced to graze on the dry plains of Extremadura, but, sorry, this story did not come to me so well for the narration) .