The first image that comes to mind when we hear the word “Algarvian” Its the wild beachesof golden sands, turquoise blue and colorful waters cliffs of limestone that die in the sea. However, if we travel a few kilometers inland along that famous coast in the south of the Iberian Peninsula, we will come across Silves, a quiet little town whose medieval bearing recalls the times in which it became capital of the region.
Silves has a short, concise and curious, as if he wanted to prove that he is a wild place as are the fields that surround it. Vineyards grow on them, as well as lemon and orange trees, which spread their intense scent of orange blossom when spring approaches.
Silves Castle, Portugal.
Those same crops predominated in the times when Silves was the capital of an Algarve controlled by the Arab conquerors. A time when the city was shaped, with that typical urban layout, of narrow, winding, cobbled streets, that we can verify in so many towns of Spain.
THE BEST PRESERVED MEDIEVAL CASTLE IN THE SOUTH OF PORTUGAL
Although there are archaeological studies that show that Silves was populated by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans and Visigoths, It was the Arabs who left an indelible mark on the city. The best proof of them is found by ascending the steep streets in search of the castle that crowns everything.
The old one fortress Arabic is presented to us as a authentic mole made with bricks of sandstone rock, reddish in color, and an impregnable aspect. The Portuguese flag flutters in the wind on one of its towers, and a large statue of the King Sancho I –the first Christian king who snatched Silves from the Arabs, albeit a short-lived victory– welcomes us to the site.
Silves Castle, Portugal.
Silves was an Arab city between the eighth and thirteenth centuries. At that time it was called Xilb, and it became an important cultural and commercial focus, becoming a capital of Muslim Al-Gharb. Silves Castle witnessed, during the 12th and 13th centuries, sieges and authentic bloodbaths between Moorish and Christian troops. The army of Alfonso III would conquer the city, definitively, in 1249, expelling the Muslim population.
thanks to some important renovation works, the castle is one of the best preserved medieval fortresses in southern Portugal. Apart from an old cistern, there is little else to see inside, but being the highest point of Silves, from there we will enjoy a spectacular panoramic view of the city.
Silvas, Portugal.
SILVES CATHEDRAL AND MUSEUM
From the viewpoint of the castle, it will not be difficult for us to see the cross and the bell tower of the Silves cathedral. its white facade appears with a worn appearance, making it clear that it is there, enduring the swing of civilizations and inclement weather, from the thirteenth century.
It was erected, with funds from the Knights of the Order of Santiago, on the remains of the Great Mosque of Silves. Gothic in style, this was respected when the temple was partially rebuilt after the great earthquake Lisbon from 1755. Inside we will find tombs of former bishops and crusader knights who fought in the Reconquest, as well as beautiful finished arches with reddish sandstone archivolts.
Very close to the cathedral is the Silves Archaeological Museum, which is an interesting stop for history lovers. In it, pieces and objects have been gathered that tell the story of the city's past, from the 2nd century BC of C to the present day.
Silves, with the castle as a backdrop.
Wandering aimlessly
However, the best plan to thoroughly enjoy a getaway to Silves is wander aimlessly through its tangle of alleys meandering to which a good number of low houses of whitewashed facades.
Those dwellings in the upper part of Silves –among which we will find remains of the old medieval wall– find color in the pots overflowing with flowers, and also in the lintels and frames painted in flashy tones.
Some of them have old wooden doors, on which you can still see shields and symbols from another era. Others appear abandoned and even demolished, showing that it is not only in our country where it is being produced. the abandonment of the field and inland towns.
Segredo dos Mouros, Silves, Portugal.
Descending the streets towards the lower part of the city, we find a good number of bars, cafes and small shops souvenirs, in which the star product is accessories made of cork, an industry that was a authentic boom commercial in Silves in the 19th century. Coffee stands out among them. Secretary of the Moors.
Very close to the cathedral, this small romantic corner It is a true redoubt of peace. The interior of the premises is decorated with lots of vintage items both furniture and farm implements, Cookware, cans, pots, cars, photographs, paintings, wines, oil bottles... An authentic Journey to the past of the area, which serves as a transition to a beautiful terrace that overlooks a field and offers some exceptional views of Silves and its surroundings.
There we can rest for a while while we enjoy natural orange or beet juice, accompanied by a avocado toast, olive oil and cheese, and other healthy foods.
Light box in Silves, Portugal.
URBAN ART IN SILVES
When we decide to leave that other world offered by the Segredo dos Mouros, it will be time to continue our getaway to Silves visiting one of its most emblematic squares : that of Al-Mutamid Ibn Abbad.
Al-Mutamid Ibn Abbad He was the last king of the Taifa kingdom of Seville , but he grew up in Silves. In this city he was granted the appellation of "The Poet King" for he loved poetry as a child, being educated by Abu Bakr Ibn Ammar, a authentic master of Arabic verses. During his reign in Seville, poetry, and culture in general, they flourished without parallel, something that was transferred to Silves.
the square is lined with trees and presided over by a large fountain decorated with sculptures of men and women who lived in Silves during the epoch of Arab rule. Each sculpture is carved in a different type of stone and the set is really original.
However, what is most striking about the square are the two great murals that decorate the facades of one of the buildings that overlook it. They show the step of muslims and christians by Silves. On the walls of the buildings in the city you will find the occasional mural, but what is really surprising is the light boxes They are found on practically every street.
Light boxes, Silves, Portugal.
thanks to one artistic initiative wonderful, these boxes appear painted with the most diverse themes: birds, butterflies, monuments and houses of Silves, rural scenes, bottles of wine and many more.
Art to embellish insignificant things and greys. Art that Silves distills in deep rivers that move away from its streets towards the sea that bathes that Algarve coast for which kings and vassals sighed.