Alex Atala: the genius instigator
A new generation of young chefs follow him. Enthusiastic and technically savvy, they are taking kitchens by storm. They rebel and impose their rules. They claim their native products and also popular cuisine, in which they are inspired to invent new dishes. Brazilians are not going to be convinced by the miniature portions of the tasting menus: they like the abundance of feijoada or tropeiro , so that, in a push and pull, a different reality is emerging that merges the old and the new, what is from there and what is from here, where the where the specialties of the butecos (popular restaurants) dress up in contemporaneity and the carafe manteiga, the carne do sol, the dendé or the quiejo bread stand out.
We have walked the streets of Sao Paulo to witness this culinary revolution and these are our clues:
**1) D.O.M **
Atala is a magician, a magician. He's the man who has put Brazil on the world gastronomic map . Trained in France and Italy, he returned with the firm intention of showing the world what his country kept: the treasure of the Amazon. The largest pantry in the world, barely explored. His challenge has not been to reinvent Brazilian cuisine, but work with Amazonian products: fish, roots, plants... even ants which he uses to dress a cube of pineapple with hints of lemon thyme. He has created his own imaginary world of colors, flavors and aromas in which there are hardly any references to Brazilian cuisine. **The jungle serves as his inspiration and, once he passes it through his culinary filter (subtle and refined) **, he returns it to the plate with the appearance, for example, of carbonara (brutal!) in which he replaces the pasta for a root converted into tagliatelle or “aligot”, a tribute to France for which it uses fresh cheese from Minas Gerais. Brilliant signature cuisine served in a spectacular setting (a place with high ceilings decorated with tribal elements) and one of the best dining room services I can remember.
His vision of Brazilian cuisine, inspired by the recipe books of the women in his family, at **Dalva e Dito**, his new restaurant, right across the street. (Rua Barão de Capanema, 549, Gardens Tel: +55 11 3088-0761)
The D.O.M restaurant
**2) Peanut **
The chefs Helena Rizzo and Daniel Redondo They form a special couple, in the kitchen and in life. They met at Celler de Can Roca, where they both worked (Daniel for many years). Now they live in São Paulo. Maní is his reality and his project, because the restaurant is constantly changing, like life itself. A fresh and naïve space, where imagination springs up around every corner . It is one of the favorites of the beautiful people of Sao Paulo but that does not make it a stuffy and formal place, quite the opposite. Maní is natural, the reflection of Helena herself, with soft gestures and a sweet look. Her great contribution to Brazilian cuisine: intelligently and sensitively apply contemporary techniques learned in Spain to popular Brazilian dishes (I loved the “feijoada” with spherified elements), and introducing hints of global cuisine such as the “dashi” (Japanese broth) of tucupi (sauce obtained from cassava). (Rua Joaquim Antunes, 210, Jardim Paulistano. Tel.: +55 11 3085-4148)
Peanuts: from El Celler de Can Roca to Sao Paulo
**3) Mocoto **
It is an address for initiates and not suitable for all audiences. Foodies from half the world come on pilgrimage to try the dishes Rodrigo Oliveira , in this popular eating house in a neighborhood of Greater Sao Paulo. They do not accept reservations and the queues on weekends are historic. The place could not be more austere, nor the staff more charming, an unusual mix. On the menu, popular cuisine specialties . The “mocofava”, the Mocotó broth and the fried yucca cream cubes are essential. The other attraction of this house is the cachaças. Oliveira is (justly) famous for offering the best selection in the São Paulo capital, and perhaps in the country. The tasting of seven different types of cane liquor and the tasting of more than six varieties of caipirinhas can kill anyone . What a danger! The passion fruit with tangerine and lemon, unbeatable. (Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto, 1100 - Vila Medeiros. Phone: 55 11 2951-3056)
Rodrigo Oliveira in action
**4) Epic **
In the elegant neighborhood of Jardims, the young chef Alberto Landgraf is putting down roots. The son of a Japanese and a German, educated in Europe, his refined cuisine is in the process of being searched, defined. We will have to keep track of him to see how far he is able to go. bound by his Training in classical European haute cuisine their dishes incorporate native ingredients combined with other foreign ones and keep the traditional structure: main ingredient+garnish+sauce . As they are served in large portions, it has become one of the favorite restaurants for Brazilians who love sophisticated cuisine. (Rua Haddock Lobo, 1002 - Jardim Paulista. Tel.: +55 11 3062-0866).
To know more
- Emerging powers at the table (I): Mexico
- Emerging powers at the table (II): Peru
Epice: the traditional structure of the Brazilian dish