Why do we like panettone so much?
The Christmas in Spain A few years ago he decided to invite one more diner. In the last two decades, the tables of the Christmas festivities have seen how the mantecados, marzipan and nougat have been making room for new visitors from other countries who have wanted to contribute to eat Christmas in a different way . And one of these guests has been the Panettone , which having entered our country in a more timid way, has become a regular in the last decade.
The panettone was a little extravagance that made more than one wonder if that giant "cupcake" was going to be a mere passing fad or would it stay . We did not know that panettone fashion was already consolidated in countries like Peru , where they have been devouring this Christmas sweet for half a century, including their own versions.
FROM CHANCE TO CULT
Panettone, like all universalized sweets, has a mountain of legends about his invention. What is clear is that the sweet has its origin in Milan . We turn to the great writer Stanislao Porzio , which in 2007 launched an essential for our libraries: “ Il panettone: storia, leggende e secret di un protagonist del Natale .
Panettone, from chance to worship
Porzio tells us that, despite lacking historical certainty, the sweet becomes popular in the fifteenth century in Milan , more specifically when at the Christmas Eve dinner Duke Ludovic or, protector of Leonardo Da Vinci, the dessert was ruined to the consequent bewilderment of the Duke's cook.
Apparently one of the kitchen helpers was able to come up with a sweet bread with what he could find in the pantry and some leftovers (dried fruit, butter and flour).
The result was bread which was served at the end of the dinner and which so won the Duke over that he decided to name the dessert after the name of the young person who came up with the idea , which is supposed to be "Toni". The sweet would go down in history with the name of “Bread of Toni” which would be abbreviated in 'panettone'.
Over the years, it has become sophisticated to almost Martian levels. the original recipe It didn't have eggs or butter, but you have to understand that in six centuries tastes change and different regions they try to adapt the sweets to their local product.
This is what has happened with panettone, which has also seen the recipe change in countries such as the one we mentioned about Peru, but also in Argentina or Brazil. After Italy, these are the countries that consume (and produce) the most panettone.
In addition, the panettone has its annual festival. The last weekend of November is the Re-panettone in Milan , a tribute to the famous Italian sweet that celebrates its twelfth call this year and that rewards the best panettone in Italy.
This year, in the category of creative Panettone, a risky bet has triumphed, a panettone salty ginger and saffron.
THE FUROR OF PANETTONE IN SPAIN
In Spain the panettone he came, he saw and he conquered . In fact, it is a sweet that is made with great care and dedication. The winner of the best artisan panettone in Spain in 2017, Oriol Balaguer , told us that it is a demanding sweet, which requires a lot of patience for its elaboration.
“Normally it takes a couple of days to make a good panettone. The secret is to have a good raw material, a sourdough e to which you have to pamper as if it were a child and high doses of patience. Oh, and turn them over once they're baked so they don't lose volume.” Oriol tells.
Today's panettone have included ingredients as varied as toffee, white chocolate and even pistachio . But without a doubt the classic is the one that triumphs at the table,
This year, the best artisan panettone in Spain has been taken by the Barcelona bakery Cloudstreet Bakery _ (Roselló, 112) _, with a panettone that he has opted for density in both texture and flavor , moving away from the classic "eyes" of the crumb, so characteristic of this sweet.
And if you're still wondering what do we pair with a good panettone , the answer is clear: with hot chocolate , without a doubt. Of course that happens here in Spain and in South America because in Italy it is not like that (unless you are a child). There it is usually accompanied by a hazelnut liqueur or a sweet wine , although for breakfast many choose to accompany it with a coffee or a macchiato.
VERY PRO PANETTONES IN 2019
Cloudstreet Bakery _(Roselló, 112. Barcelona) _. The mere fact of being the best artisan panettone in Spain for this 2019 has caused a stampede to this bakery to get a copy . Its classic panettone is more consistent, with a compact crumb, made with organic product and flour brought from Italy. He has earned to be the best this year freehand, perhaps that 1926 oven that is inside you be your talisman.
the little duchess (Ferdinand VI, 2. Madrid). Can't miss the panettoni quote. The Master Balaguer never ceases to surprise us every year with a panettone that is a authentic work of art.
This year, in addition to its classic panettone with gianduia and chocolate , he has decided to innovate with a raspberry one that has left us quite surprised. Of course, from la Duquesita you will leave with a panettone and a good handful of chocolate palm trees. You are warned.
La Duquesita Panettone
Moulin Chocolate (Alcalá, 77. Madrid). It is completely impossible to pass in front of the gate of Moulin Chocolate , and not get carried away by the smell, go in and lose your mind. What is possibly the most chic patisserie in the capital has a panettone that is a scandal, made with 70% Guanaja chocolate and Agrimont orange. And on top, a crown of almonds to give a special touch that makes it different. Of ten.
Juanfran Asencio _(Avda. Constitución, 10. Aspe) _ It has always been on everyone's lips for its good to do in the world of panettone. Family of pastry chefs from 1777 , Juanfran does not stop innovating and it is not surprising that many people from Valencia move to ** Aspe (Alicante) ** to get hold of one of his wonders.
From the chocolate filling to the nougat and orange filling without overlooking the classic panettone with fruit that is simply spectacular.
Classic panettone by Juanfran Asencio
Paco Torreblanca (Petrer and Alicante, in addition to their online store -order your panettone before the 19th to be able to have it for Christmas Eve at home-). A classic among classics, from the master pastry chef who has been recognized as the Best Panettone in the world outside of Italy and appointed Panettone ambassador.
Losito House _(7 Zurbarán Street, Madrid) _. With marron glacé and drops of dark chocolate. also available for celiacs.