The addresses of a city that lets its hair down
For years, this romantic city has refused to move from its comfortable position of 'old-fashioned is best' . While Barcelona and Madrid pioneered everything from interior design to pioneering tapas, Seville was still trapped in a dream of patios with tinkling fountains and gypsy dancers . The Spanish gastronomic revolution of the last decade did not even pass through here. But something has changed.
Contemporary art, design, fashion and cuisine they are gradually infiltrating its traditional historic center. The city's profile has been altered by the construction of modern buildings, none as imposing as the César Pellide of the new Cajasol Tower , which rises about seventy meters above La Giralda, or the incredible building Metropol Parasol of Jurgen Mayer H. , a serpentine structure known as 'las setas', which has revitalized the area of the Encarnacion neighborhood.
Metropol Parasol by Jürgen Mayer H
A decade ago, this working-class neighborhood, located in the heart of the city's Old Town, was totally dilapidated and littered with dusty shops and businesses from bygone eras. But if you take a look today, the streets that extend from the Plaza de la Encarnación are dotted with bookshops-cafes, vintage shops, brunch spots and gastrobars serving innovative Andalusian cuisine. in very funky scenarios ( another trend that has been brewing for years in the 'modern' city ) .
still exist authentic taverns , rescued just in time by bartenders from the new school. This is the case of Bodega La Aurora . Founded in 1913, La Aurora continues to serve wine directly from barrels. Besides, now everywhere you find the work of local young fashion designers , especially in the stores of the mythical Alameda de Hercules and in the alfalfa neighborhood . The taste for rye bread, beards and other hipster touches are also very present here, but always with the unique Andalusian touch.
For example, in this bright and colorful city, the current trend for retro furniture is more focused on bright colors than on Scandinavian minimalism. Or the foodie concept (the trend that brings together lovers of good food and gastronomic experiences), which has also landed in the city, here preserves the nuance of the Spanish schedule for meals . It is eaten late at night and accompanied by countless tapas tapas **(although now of an artisanal variety) **.
a cat on a bike
Another interesting change has been the rise of a thriving bicycle culture . Seville, a city in which there was a certain rejection towards two wheels, now has more than 120 kilometers of bike lanes and every day some 72,000 journeys are made by this means of transport. Last year the city was highlighted by CNN as the second best in the world, after Utrecht, for cycling, ahead of Amsterdam, Copenhagen and Berlin.
But where to look, then, for this new Seville? Well, around 'the mushrooms' of La Encarnación, but also, among the indie bars and the trendy places of the Alameda de Hercules , on Calle Feria with its retro shops and snack bars, and in the Arenal neighborhood, where you'll find everything from bullfighting taverns to minimalist art galleries. Look for the modern, understood as the opposite of the classic, it often means getting away from the city's hottest spots to explore areas where budding creativity is making its mark . Seville's image is a horse-drawn carriage, tapas and a glass of fine wine, but also fusion tapas, post-industrial brick walls, innovative cocktails and trendy venues.
Gazpacho at the San Fernando restaurant at the Hotel Alfonso XIII
CLASSIC SEVILLE
where to stay
Hotel Alfonso XIII. This place has been the point of reference for Sevillian luxury since 1929 and, after last year's major refurbishment, has regained its rightful place as one of the most luxurious hotels among the best in Spain . The remodeling, which cost several million euros , has turned him into a more vivacious version of himself , with a modern Moorish design replacing the worn furniture and contemporary art deco that decorates the American Bar. If ever there was a room to be ecstatic in that is the torreon suite , on the top floor, with a private terrace and stunning views of the old town. San Fernando Street, 2; HD: from €270.
Gran Melia Colon. The top property that the group has Melia Hotels International in Seville has long enjoyed the approval of the Sevillian upper class, especially of those with connections to the world of bullfighting . A recent renovation, which initially caused an uproar among the more conservative population of the city, has worked very well, bringing a more cheerful atmosphere to this Belle Époque decorated hotel with elegant furnishings by Starck, Wanders and Edra, and bright juxtapositions like the gorgeous red sofa in the pristine white lobby. The Burladero gastrobar , bullfight-themed, from the chef Danny Garcia , offers a fun modern twist on classic Andalusian dishes and an excellent wine list. Canalejas Street, 1; HD: from €200.
Alfonso XIII (Seville)
HOUSE No 7 . Everyone loves Gonzalo del Río González-Gordon and his six-bedroom Casa No 7 hotel in the neighborhood of Santa Cruz . the mansion of 1847 , decorated with period furniture and antiques from Del Río's own collection, it is the best of the Spanish aristocracy with hints of an English country house . Virgin Street, 7; HD: from €260.
Where to eat and drink
The canteen . Next to the church of San Marcos, this market bar used to be a cheerfully neglected place. But recently it has done some remodeling work and continues to offer a delicious seafood fresh from the market stalls and one of the best fried fish in town , with a very efficient service. Fair street market.
The Little Corner. Its almost 350 years of existence guarantee the good work of the 'little corner'. The oldest tavern in Seville It is a place where nothing seems to have changed, starting with the way of doing accounts with clients, with chalk on the wooden desk , or the wall tiled with tiles and, even, the grumpy character of its waiters . The menu also seems to be from the Stone Age: tortilla tapas, ham, cheeks and pavías (pieces of battered cod). Stand by the bar or find a quiet table upstairs. Girona Street, 40; From €40 for two.
Seville, which one do you prefer?
Yebra. Local gourmets keep the secret of their existence . Located on a street without any incentive, and a bit far from the Macarena neighborhood, from the outside this bar-restaurant looks like another one of the legion of neighborhood bars in Seville. But once inside wealthy customers and haughty waiters dressed in black pants They will make you see this place differently. In fact, Yebra probably serves the best traditional tapas in town . The seafood is top notch. Even some humble scrambled eggs with black pudding are impressively delicious. To drink, a glass of fino, cava or Spanish reds. Miraculous Medal Street, 3; From €80 for two.
The Garloche. Hyperbolic, Sevillian and Semanantero , this cocktail bar next to the central Plaza de la Alfalfa is a classic. Kitsch is saying little. : a Virgin Mary surrounded by flowers welcomes you at the door. The interior resembles an antique store specializing in church paraphernalia. Take a look at the altar hanging above the bar and its images. Taste the Water of Seville (orange juice, cava and beaten egg white) or the Blood of Christ (mixture of grenadine, pink champagne and whiskey) with the pop of the sixties in the background. Calle Boteros, 26.
Serrano ham from the San Fernando restaurant
what to see **Real Alcázar de Sevilla.** The city's medieval Alcázar is the most popular visit, and with good reason. The powerful romanticism of its Mudejar interiors and elegant gardens draw visitors in droves, but quiet corners can still be found if you know where to look for them. The Grotesque Gallery It is a sculptured walkway at the far end of the garden that many people miss. It has recently reopened after a wonderful restoration. Highly recommended are also the night visits , which using dance, music and theater bring the history of this complex back to life. Flag Courtyard.
**Santa Paula Monastery.** In the little-traveled neighborhood of San Luis lies one of Seville's most surprising treasures. Adapting to its complicated opening hours (from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday) is worth it. It is a convent of the Jerónimos order where a handful of cloistered nuns administer an artistic heritage of incalculable value , not to mention the 15th century church and convent garden. Ask Sister Bernarda to point you to Morales' paintings and Jose de Ribera . The entrance is the will. Don't forget to take the cookies and jellies (the jasmine and orange blossom ones are delicious) that the nuns prepare. Santa Paula Street, 11.
** Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza .** The oldest bullring in the world has occupied, since the 18th century, this privileged place on the banks of the Alfonso XIII canal, that runs along the historic bed of the river crossed by the oldest bridges in the city . The name of the Maestranza, like all the Reales Maestranzas de Caballería, refers to a corporation formed by the aristocracy for the protection of the crown (hence the practice of horsemanship and handling of weapons). In this bullfighting cathedral, the most notorious names of each season, which runs from spring to autumn, fight. Visit the bullfighting museum, restored in 2008, and don't miss Goya's Tauromaquia series, from the museum's collection of paintings and prints. Paseo de Cristobal Colon, 12.
black sheep
THE MODERN SEVILLE
where to stay
Villapanes Palace. There is a lot of contemporary elegance with hardly a hint of frivolity in this impressive palace converted into a hotel and located at the end of the old town. Of all the palace hotels with terraces in Seville, the Villapanés wins for its authentic style: elegant gray paneled walls and purple velvet headboards. Among the rooms that can be booked, the Palace suite stands out with its carved coffered ceiling or the Torreón suite, an old dovecote with stunning views of the city . Santiago Street, 31; HD: from €170.
Hotel Corral del Rey. Tucked away in a corner of the sprawling old town and with just thirteen elegant and relaxing rooms, this hotel looks like a Moroccan riad in the south of Spain . The rooftop pool is perfect for those hot spring and summer days. Corral del Rey Street, 12; HD: from €210.
Corral del Rey Pool Terrace Suite
Where to eat and drink
Non-Place Art Company. the eclectic red house gallery (on Calle Amor de Dios) by artists Álvaro Díaz and Cristina Galeote has long been a hit with creative 20-somethings. His latest opening, the No-Place, is more elegant, with its combination of retro furniture, Moroccan crockery, very chic recycled items and a table made from an Italian industrial oven. The menu mixes North African, Andalusian and Pakistani cuisine. Trajan Street, 16; From €40 for two.
Black Sheep. Perhaps because of its interior, which mixes industrial and vintage styles, and its well-executed tapas (foie gras with cardamom chutney and sprigs with lettuce sauce), this 'misguided sheep' has been one of Seville's revelations in recent years. The sister restaurant, the mamarracha , located a few meters away, is a very decent place with its exposed brick and polished concrete walls and a menu specializing in grilled meat and fish. It is also one of the few good places in the city that is open on Monday nights. Hernando Colón Street, 8; From €35 for two.
The Pepona. This sophisticated gastrobar by Juanlu Fernández , a former member of the Binomio restaurant, is one of the best of the new generation. The service is attentive and pleasant, and the tapas are not only original and with a lot of flavor (Iberian jowl scallop with Dutch pineapple; pressed pork legs with prawns and their desired marinated sardines) but also, at a very good price, around €4 per dish. La Pepona's wine list is an anthology of Andalusian table wines , with great prominence of fortified wines and local wines. Orfila Street 2; From €27 for two.
Plato dish. The elegant neighborhood of Porvenir , behind Maria Luisa Park, may not be on the busiest route but this new spot has been very successful and deserves the detour. It is run by Manolo Nieto and Manu Labella and opened its doors at the end of 2013. It was a smash hit from the start, with its whitewashed walls, funky lighting and leather stools. They have hit the nail on the head with the cuisine, with ingenious tapas creations such as black rice with a crust and tagliatelle-style squid or roasted fish from Huelva and aged meat from Galicia. Corner of Felipe II street and Progreso street.
Ena. For most of its history, the Alfonso XIII hotel has been conservative in many respects. Reason why his restaurant Ena was presented as a great surprise. Under the direction of Catalan chef Carles Abellán, who brought c with him his postmodern and playful way of cooking from Comerç 24 and Tapas 24 in Barcelona , serves dishes such as patatas bravas, salted Kinder eggs and olive spherifications. Reserve a table on the terrace in advance. San Fernando Street, 2; From €65 for two.
Abbots Triana. This is the star property of the always effective Abades Group , an elegant and contemporary restaurant with a glass facade above the calm waters of the river (officially the Alfonso XIII canal). The menu consists of classics from the south of Spain and fresh ideas like red mullet with ratatouille, mint and sherry vinegar reduction. Calle Betis, 69; From €90 for two.
Abbots Triana
what to see
A cat on a bicycle. “It was meant to be a standard bookstore, but it got out of hand” say the owners of this gloriously multifaceted space, a pioneer of Sevillian alternative cultural scene . In addition to books and comics, the space offers poetry readings, conferences, artistic shows, microtheatre, music, pottery, vintage decoration workshops... Calle Regina, 8.
Wabi Sabi Shop & Gallery. With a new location recently opened (the success of the first location has led to a move to a more comfortable location), Wabi Sabi is a fascinating mix of art gallery and interior design store. Worn Antiques and Rustic Paraphernalia , books, magazines, clothing by local designers and challenging modern sculpture fill the corners of the place. Franco Street, 9.
Delimbo Gallery. This spacious colonnaded place has been a banana warehouse, an internet café and a painter's studio before it Seleka Munoz and Laura Calvarro transformed it into a gallery of urban art from Europe and the USA. Both women belong to that generation of Sevillians who have grown tired of the conservatism of the city and want to show something different . Perez Galdos Street, 1.
Rafael Garcia. According to Rafael García Forcada, founder of The Importer (one of the flagships of Sevillian design, fashion and art, and a pillar of the alternative scene), the quiet streets around the Museum of Fine Arts they are one of the best areas of the city to find fashion, design and cuisine. This is where Forcada , an elegant and slender gentleman with a vest and a clean beard, has his studio, an Andalusian-style terrace with a private space in the back where he receives his clients by appointment. His dresses are sculpted from fine fabrics, bringing to mind a Balenciaga of modern times. "The new creativity in Seville is about passion and humility," he says. "I love the way this city is coming back to life again." Calle Bailen, 63.
* This report is published in the 90th issue of the December Condé Nast Traveler magazine and is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device.
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DelimboGallery