A restaurant in San Telmo
**1) A COFFEE IN THE SAN TELMO MARKET **
In addition to supplying food to the area, the iron architecture structure hosts a quite interesting antiques fair that arose when the military government wanted to demolish the building and all the antique dealers decided to move here to rescue it. Other groups joined them: stamp collectors, tin soldiers or collectors of various gadgets ... And then the street stalls in the adjacent streets joined in: sellers of hot bread and choripán, artisans who recover traditional instruments and street musicians, in many cases worthy of an odeon.
Every day, the fair is a new experience for bargain hunters and retro lovers . What does not vary is the quality of the coffee served in the central kiosk , an authentic gourmet surprise, in a city with a long coffee tradition, but which is normally served Italian style. Very much in line with the trend that comes from Scandinavia and the United States (even in cities like Lima), and run by the national barista champion, at this stand you can choose the variety (fruit, floral...), the origin (Colombia , Java…) and the extraction method (chemex, french press…) . Quite a luxury for coffee growers.
Antiques in San Telmo
2) ONE MEAT AND ANOTHER CAPRESE
Many lament that in recent years San Telmo has become a place sold to tourism. It is true that, especially on fair days, foreigners are the ones who most stroll through Plaza Dorrego and its surroundings. But there are still places that preserve the neighborhood atmosphere, as is the case of Pedro Telmo, a family establishment at the exit of the market , which is attended by two nice ladies from Buenos Aires and is always full. It is perfect for making a stop and eating some empanadas: there are **meat, spicy meat, Roquefort, cheese and onion, and caprese (tomato and mozzarella)**. For 8 pesos (less than one euro).
The empanadas: mandatory stop
3) FROM THE MOTHERLAND TO THE TASTE OF THE COLONIES
The first Café San Juan (the first branch of its predecessor) was on Calle San Juan and it was already working like a shot. Hence, its owners decided a year ago to open a second location a few blocks further down. It is the trendy restaurant in the neighborhood, where everyone wants to go , and where there is not always a table. Much of his fame has come from his television chef (he has a cooking show on TV Fox Life), Lele Christopher , a bad boy from the neighborhood of Quilmes who, in addition to being handsome and having tattoos on more than three quarters of his body, is a skater and not a fan of biting his tongue. His food, of Spanish heritage (in this second place with more of an Italian accent) but adapted to the local taste, it is like him: sincere and with abundant portions. Impeccable points and presentation. With all this it is clear that his clientele is young and cool.
4) THE NEW KID ON THE BLOCK
The MACBA (Museum of Contemporary Art of Buenos Aires) is the latest museum addition to the neighborhood that already had good exponents such as the Museum of Modern Art of Buenos Aires. On its four floors, temporary exhibitions of funds from the permanent collection are exhibited on a rotating basis. The most striking is his collection of geometric abstraction , with pieces by the most powerful artists in the world, especially Latin American.
The Contemporary Art Museum of Buenos Aires: the latest addition
**5) LIZARD, LIZARD (MEAT OF) **
The gastronomic scene in Buenos Aires has an absolutely unique setting in San Telmo: it is the El Baqueano Restaurant , a rarity that for many would already deserve a Michelin star, and probably the only one in the capital (not counting vegetarians) that does not serve beef. Failing that, his letter is full of indigenous meats of the country that are not eaten anywhere else , such as llama, vizcacha (an Andean rodent), jacaré (lizard) or ñandú (ostrich)…. Not in vain its name refers to the person who detected the tracks of animals on the ground. Fernando, the cook, and his wife, Gabriela, head chef and sommelier, work exclusively with a tasting menu (and only at night). Here you can taste algae from Patagonia and even an edible wood What do the Guarani eat?
El Baqueano restaurant, lizard meat and much more
6) FROM MALBEC TO TORRONTÉS
The Aldo's Wine Bar It is the wine bar of the star sommelier of Buenos Aires, Aldo Graceni , who has passed through the Bar Gran Ansón and the Faena (Philipe Stark's hotel in Puerto Madero) and who also hosts a jazz and wine radio program. Its main attraction is that has about 600 different labels , which means that you will be able to try many Argentine wines (by the glass or by the bottle) that are difficult to find elsewhere and, more importantly, at reasonable prices (although not as good as in the beginning, it must be said). Just a week ago, a jazz club was inaugurated downstairs, with a spectacular program every day: on Sundays there is jazz and brunch, on Tuesdays tastings by winemakers and guest sommeliers and on Thursdays a tasting menu with a pairing of five dishes plus five wines.
Aldo's Wine Bar
**7) HOTEL SAN TELMO **
In a typical mansion, typical of the neighborhood of the nineteenth century. It only has 12 rooms spread over two loft-like floors, so some beds are located in mezzanines (which can be romantic for some and claustrophobic for others). The nice thing is that many of the original construction details have been kept as the exposed wooden beams, and that marry perfectly with the designer furniture , with very warm materials. It is a member of Destino Argentina, which includes the best luxury hotels in the city.
Design at the Hotel San Telmo