Rodalquilar
Rodalquilar has a soul The one that was lost in other paradises devastated by tourism here remains intact . You can feel it every time the night wind blows, swaying the palm trees while the cicadas sing. And in the silence of the morning. Also in each cactus that populates the streets of the Almeria town or in the slow walk of the chameleon that inhabits its lands. And in the breeze that runs along its beaches guarded by wise castles.
Corner in Rodalquilar
To feel it, you must first ascend to the sky of Amethyst Lookout and then descend suddenly to the old volcano crater that today forms the Rodalquilar Valley . It is a natural space full of history, cinema, passions, disconnection. And in whose center appears this tiny village of white houses with traditional Almerian architecture.
Its streets are quiet, clean. Also corridors of a huge exhibition thanks to the initiative Rodalquilarte , in which almost a hundred artists participate with works from different disciplines. The sample has almost one work for every two inhabitants , since Rodalquilar has little more than 170 residents . And, although in summer its population grows, the tourist bustle is barely noticeable: Las Negras or San Jose They welcome the majority of visitors, so in this village there is always a tranquility that allows you to enjoy the artistic works with the silence of a museum.
The silence and the white of Almería
Stillness multiplies in autumn . When school starts, families say goodbye, the weather gets giddy and the Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park it is discovered solitary to live it in all its splendor. It's the south, it's Almeria, so at times the sun also stings when the leaves begin to fall. The autumn season is perfect for getting lost in beautiful coves and landscapes from another continent. Remember: It is the only desert territory in all of Europe.
"Out of season Rodalquilar and Cabo de Gata they mean hiking, biking, pristine beaches. It's a place that fills you with energy," says Javier, who, together with his partner Antonio, runs The shelf , a chest full of treasures in the shape of a grocery store (although the concept falls short, because it is much more than that) .
One is from La Mancha and the other from Madrid, but they came from Toledo. They owned a restaurant there, and after spending several vacations in Cabo de Gata, they decided to return once more, this time to stay. They wanted to continue feeding tourism, but it was impossible for them. "We didn't find the space we needed, but we saw that perhaps this type of store could also work," adds Javier. They got it right.
Five years later, his store receives numerous people looking for organic fruits, p Italian antlers, wines from Almería (you have to try the Dídacus and La Cabra reds and the boot) or local beers such as Origen and the craft and exquisite El Cabo . But there are also Japanese seaweed snacks, gourmet oils, raw goat's milk cheeses... and a thousand more products from half the world that give La Despensa a special flavor and smell.
The shelf
most of Cabo de Gata shops and restaurants rest out of season. They hurry with offers and discounts the first fortnight of September and close their doors until Easter. La Pantry is one of the exceptions . Also the two proposals that are opposite: the Barecillo and its rich breakfasts (in the afternoon you never know if it will open or not) or the shop , which only opens in the morning to offer its homemade breads and exquisite sweets.
Higher, the box office It is a great restaurant that also maintains its activity in the low season, although only on weekends. Fish from the area or meat are some of their proposals , where there is also room for some typical Almerian dishes such as pot of wheat , perfect for cloudy days (which also exist).
Organic fruits from La Despensa
Time runs slowly in this arid corner of the planet, which becomes an advantage for those who want to spend part of their vacations cooking. The best, without a doubt, is bet on the fish . Sometimes the prices can scare you, but the product is more than recommended and it is finally discovered cheap. Red prawn, redfish, rooster pedro, red mullet or galanes are just some of the most interesting species of this coast. It is impossible to find them in Rodalquilar, where there is no fish market; but there are three nearby options.
The first and most recommended, get up early to visit the Antonio Piedra's fishmonger in Campohermoso . It serves town ladies, restless tourists and, above all, the best restaurants in the area. In fact, they open at nine in the morning and an hour later they have literally almost all the fish sold.
The second is to go every Friday or Saturday from 9.30 a.m. to the Komo Komo supermarket in Las Negras , where the product is very fresh and everything is freshly caught.
The third option is to buy directly from the fishermen of the Islet of the Moor . It is the most attractive, daring and even fun alternative, but it also poses a risk for arriving when they have already stocked the restaurants in the area.
Landscape next to the Isleta del Moro
THE AUTUMN BATH
Rodalquilar is much more than gastronomy. And in autumn, when the temperature softens but the sun shines brightly, the beaches are a delight. In some cases you may even have all the sand to yourself. can occur in the Cove of the Bulls , near the Isleta del Moro. Also in coves like Barronal or The Half Moon , which can be reached very close by car and then accessed on a short excursion.
Next to this hiding place in San José, beaches better known as The Monsul or The Genoveses , which are worth approaching on foot or on a mountain bike. The pitas, some prickly pears that survive the white cochineal and a good number of endemic plants make up a unique landscape to enjoy with a walk. The afternoon also offers a unique light that no camera captures with complete fidelity: no matter how much you see it on Instagram, it will never be true. You have to experience it in the first person.
The beach of the Genoveses
In the beach , the shore of Rodalquilar, there is another of the perfect places to take a bath in crystalline waters or simply lie on the sand with a good book. This is the little cove under the castle of San Ramón. From there also departs the La Molata trail , a route between white cliffs and turquoise waters that in less than an hour reaches the Cueva de las Palomas and Cala del Cuervo , next to Campsite La Caleta , on the outskirts of Las Negras.
This beautiful town is one of the liveliest in the area and its tiny promenade is the best place to enjoy a sunset. Taste that can give a refreshing beer in the cellar : a tiny bar that also plays the soundtrack to accompany the gentle waves that have been chosen by Guardian as one of the ten most charming on the Spanish coast. And, yes, it is written with ye.
Fossil dune next to El Mónsul
OUT OF ROUTE
The Fernán Pérez aqueduct, Cortijo del Frail e (where the events that gave rise to the work occurred Blood Wedding , by García Lorca) or the tiny town of The apricots are some of the excursions that make this land of Almeria even richer. As is the beautiful road that winds through the undulations of the land that until Bitter Water and Carboneras between wild landscapes and olive trees that need drip irrigation to survive.
The narrow road has detours to places like the Lead Cove , which requires patience to get through its seven kilometers of bumpy road; or to the Beach of the Dead , which despite its name is always among the top ten of the best in Spain for its cleanliness and crystal clear waters, among other aspects.
It is also something unique to walk among the ruins of the old gold mines of Rodalquilar, that transport to another era of splendor that has passed but is still there. And that grant precious views to the whole valley that dominates the small population.
Chameleon in Cabo de Gata
A few minutes by road is located The Well of the Friars, where gastronomy is once again the protagonist. A corner as lost as it is special is the restaurant Lakshmi . As strange as it seems to find Indian cuisine in a small southern town surrounded by desert, the experience is more than recommendable for the taste of each dish and the great value for money. Also for the views from its illuminated terrace , full of lights reminiscent of a town fair.
The Redfish is the place of reference, for its contemporary kitchen , its respect for the product and its mythical rice . And for some snack off the menu that, by itself, compensates for the excursion to Cabo de Gata. Very close is located the skylight , opened this past summer and whose facilities are scattered around an old traditional and restored century-old house. Another newcomer, the ** Bartreze Sur, ** brings modernity, bringing to Almería the style of his older brother, the Bartreze de Sarria, in Barcelona . It has hammocks, umbrellas and a terrace with rich shade, but no kitchen. Nothing happens: his menu is based on sausages, salads and other light proposals to accompany the midday vermouth or a late-night cocktail.
South Treze Bar
And, back in Rodalquilar, the **Oro y Luz restaurant** is the ideal destination to end the night. Among other things because it is located in the resort of the same name, with six suites and an apartment with a kitchen just a stone's throw from El Playazo and views without light pollution. All seasoned with great images of the Western shot in Almeria on the walls . Dawn is the ideal time to feel like just another cowboy on a horseback ride, one of the activities offered at this accommodation that opens a new day in one of the most magical corners of the Spanish geography. Also in autumn.
Crescent Cove