We have come here to eat meat
the castle It is perhaps one of the most peculiar restaurants –in the literal, unambiguous sense– of Andalusia.
It is peculiar because of its location, in Santa Lucía, a remote hamlet in the hills opposite Vejer de la Frontera, which does not prevent it from being almost permanently overcrowded.
It is peculiar because its owner, Juan Valdés, is a student, almost obsessed, of cattle and he has a very peculiar way of understanding it, selecting it and treating it.
it's quirky for the product you handle being where you are: cows from small farms, selected throughout the country, who take care of the breed and the food.
It is peculiar in terms of its decoration, halfway between a botanical garden and an antique shop misplaced, cozy and disconcerting in equal parts.
Juan Valdés, the boss of all this
to the castle, above anything else, you come to eat meat. And when we talk about meat, it is better that we forget about the typical Basque grill chop. Juan Valdés understands beef differently.
Here the focus is on raising and feeding the animal. The breed may be important, but many times it remains in the background in front of the breeder and his philosophy, which take on all their relevance.
The maturations are attenuated and the meat is treated with care, nothing to scorch the outside and nothing to heat the inside.
Valdés seeks to temper the meat, "caress" it and eat it at the point closest to its natural state, almost “of time”.
An extreme, almost radical, respect for the product. That's why the cuts are somewhat finer than we are used to. Not everyone will be convinced by this theory, but it is absolutely consistent with their way of understanding the product.
Grilled La Janda Retinta Veal Loin
Thus, once the access is solved and well accommodated, posts should be moderated which, fortunately, have been simplified over time.
Local vegetables, some from their own garden, lightly grilled and accompanied by dressings for which Valdés has always had a special talent: asparagus, spring onions, artichokes, wild mushrooms or aubergines They constitute a magnificent prelude before reaching the main course: beef.
Sorted by ages, races, cuts and maturations we find Avilanian calves or charras, retinta, blonde or Friesian cows, Galician castrated males, Leonese hicks, Extremaduran pronghorn… The interest and the occasion advise undertaking a tasting of different pieces, races and cuts until the body holds.
Over the years, moreover, La Castillería has grown as a restaurant and, beyond its grills, has expanded its range of options that extend to the Iberian pork, suckling lamb or the superb grilled suckling pig.
In addition, the service has improved remarkably and the wine offer is increasingly wide and adequate. An unavoidable place.
The maturations are attenuated and the meat is treated with care