Traditional stewed octopus, olive oil from Tenerife, male vinegar and spicy pepper, from Silbo Gomero
Braulio Simancas, with his knowledge, gives diners the opportunity to enjoy one of the best interpretations of contemporary Canarian gastronomy , which looks to the present without forgetting its roots: welcome to Silbo Gomero.
In the cozy restaurant on the outskirts of La Laguna in Tenerife, a space with a tavern spirit, rustic and with a certain unassuming elegance , every detail is a statement of intent, and that is indigenous artists They have created everything from the paintings that hang on its walls to some pieces of table service.
Braulio defines his cuisine as “ a Canarian cuisine of product , above all local products, and always looking at the traditional recipe book”, and he adds, “obviously, it is not a traditional cuisine, but it is true that the canaries will remember with some of our dishes what they have eaten in their childhood . It is Canarian cuisine and market”.
Yellow sweet potato and egg yolk from Silbo Gomero
The letter is not very extensive – there is no menu of the day or tasting menu -, but enough to have options and create a custom menu . As soon as you enter the restaurant, you cannot help but notice the cellar , located in sight, in a small section of the dining room separated from the living room by glass, which also doubles as cheese cellar.
and see those shelves full of two of the products that are part of the idiosyncrasy of the islands – wines and cheeses -, attached to the letter, which is a declaration of love to the native product , allows us to verify that Braulio's vocation to present a comprehensive vision of Canarian gastronomy is very serious.
The first to arrive at the table, accompanied by delicious bread, It is a homemade canned tuna, served directly by Braulio , which presents it as a nod to the canning tradition of the islands.
Seasonal yellowfin tuna tartare from Silbo Gomero
Among the starters, the almogrote , a cheese pâté that is a specialty of La Gomera, the island of Braulio's parents and to which, judging by the affection with which she speaks, she has a very special relationship. Likewise, Canarian cheeses, so unknown in the peninsula , They are delicious. It is worth trying the salad of the day, especially if it contains tomatoes, very tasty . The Stewed octopus with Tenerife oil from Arico, male vinegar and black potatoes It is a good option to share before launching into the main dishes.
Braulio modestly explains that the dish that defines his cuisine “ is rock fish, -whether snapper, grouper or any other fish-, in a casserole . Casserole is really a very traditional dish, especially from the seaside area, and my family comes from a seaside town on La Gomera and we have always been closely linked to this dish, especially at family gatherings” and continues, “ rock fish in a casserole with a mashed coriander , because? Because it is a mojo and my kitchen is very much identified with the world of mojo”.
the mojos They are an essential part of the archipelago's cookbook and Braulio gives them a new life by turning them into hot sauces , as in one of his best known dishes, marinated and smoked black pork belly with red mojo sauce . Like this one, the menu is made up of apparently simple and recognizable dishes. In Silbo Gomero, Braulio transfers the traditional Canarian recipe book to the present, preserving the essence of the roots, but offering a renewed version, in many cases lighter.
Silbo Gomero fresh goat milk custard
The wine list is predominantly Canarian and the best thing is to be recommended. In it there are references to young projects that defend the varieties of native grapes and practice sustainable viticulture . Some examples are The Araucaria, Vinícola Taro, or Bimbache , which follow the trail of quality wines marked by already consecrated wineries, such as Luck of the Marquis or Envínate.
The star dessert is the homemade custard with goat cream . “This is the classic dish that corresponds to the local and artisan product, which in this case is the goat cream , a very little known product, which practically nobody produces” affirms Braulio. Likewise, another good, lighter and very refreshing option is Pineapple carpaccio from El Hierro with orange blossom water.
Silbo Gomero flower cheesecake
Address: Calle del Volcán Elena, 9. San Cristóbal de La Laguna (Tenerife) See map
Telephone: 922 31 03 55
Schedule: From Monday to Thursday from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and from Friday to Saturday from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and from 8:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Additional schedule information: Sunday closed
Half price: €25