Restaurant of the week: Arrea! or how to recover the kitchen of the mountain (Alava)

Anonim

Saltxitxa kasera with pollen mustard and fermentau chilli pepper

Saltxitxa kasera with pollen mustard & fermentau chilli pepper

Yes there are something that marks a cook they are the roots of it. The place where he was born, the flavors of home and the influences that shape each of his steps until he reaches the kitchen. A dish is the result of a lifetime of experiences.

The name of Edorta Lamo is already famous for that tavern called To Black Fire , gambling den that falls in love and that no one resists when it comes to Saint Sebastian . A success that has not prevented him from expanding horizons with Arrea!, the back to the link that it maintains with the mountains of Alava, specifically, with the Kanpezu village , about twenty-five minutes from Victory.

Chef Edorta Lamo

Chef Edorta Lamo

"He was watching me a little limited and trapped by the kitchen lines of A Fuego Negro, those that I love so much but that also began to create my need to cook differently ”, comments Lamo.

It is then that the idea of ​​returning to the town arises, to "an area in which ranchers and farmers they looked 'canutas' long ago when it came to getting him out benefit to the earth , which was not cultivable. In the 1920s, a current was created that, pushed by famine, took the villagers to the mountains in search of what agriculture did not provide to take something to the pot, ”he relates.

That became a ** social movement ** that was governed by its own laws and that used resources from the mountains such as chamomile, rock tea, wild boar and roe deer , as well as the trout, crab and truffle and mushroom harvesting . In the 1970s, the children of these sneaky they emigrated to work in the industry and in those years of progress that generation chose to silence their origins.

“In Arrea! we seek to recover and adapt the wisdom of the grandparents ** for gather and hunt . Now is the time to vindicate”, says Edorta determined. And he fulfills it with a restaurant divided into bar, block –with pintxos, bokatitas and grilled meats– and a dining room with a menu with local products adapted to the times, but always full of stews and casseroles: stewed pigeon, ajoarriero cod snails... more personal proposal and gastronomic, careful and personal, arrives in 18 passes and fetish dishes from the area, such as trout –Tartare, pil-pil from the river & Ajoleek; Trutxita to Navarre; Trutxa-Ham-Pellao the pigeon –rillette and berrubiote; broth and chestnut; petxuga and Sauco– (€80), while the mendialdea menu It has a choice from starter cuisine, as well as a putxero, fish, meat and dessert.

wild boar shank

wild boar shank

“And shortly, we will have completed the proposal with five rooms so you can stay right here”, he finishes explaining to us excitedly. Take a plan

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