No, it's not chocolate... It's truffle and foie gras!
Walking down the street of Madrid Joseph Abascal , in the neighborhood of Chamberi , I came across a showcase that made me understand why Audrey Hepburn she ate breakfast every day in front of Tiffany's in Breakfast with diamonds . But, against all odds, what caught my attention was not a jewel, but a gold-plated donut.
The creator of this work of art? Modesto Bargueno , better known as Teto. This chef from Madrid, who owes his passion to having grown up in a family of bakers , he decided to start devote himself to high rosconería less than a year ago.
tripe cabinet
It all started in Zurito , the restaurant of Pozuelo where does it lead 19 years demonstrating his mastery of the kitchen:
“In my restaurant we make big tiles for the cafe and , at this time, ** roscones .** I had been looking for a long time a special recipe , it got between my eyebrows and last year's Christmas I spent a whole month researching , coming to develop some 90 masses different. Until I hit the key ”, he explains.
A job that is reflected in the delicious taste of these Christmas donuts, which he got from change the butter for shortening. On the other hand, the bargueños, apart from being more aerial , also differ from traditional roscones in their original salty options.
Black pudding with candied orange , Sicilian tomato with capers, black olives with Parmesan, burrata with watercress, tripe, foie gras and truffle or bean stew are some of the peculiar variants of the classic recipe. But without any doubt, the big star is the bargueño de sobrasada , a delight (we attest).
Warning for the sweet tooth: the sweet fillings -for instance, angel hair, berries, mango or Nutella - are addictive. When in doubt about which one to choose, you can try **a portion (€2.50) ** and accompany it with a tea or a coffee while your palate decides.
"It's throwing imagination . If anyone has any suggestions or want to personalize one for a birthday or any other holiday, you can order it from me ”, Teto comments to Traveler.es.
You must try the roscón de sobrasada
Although one of their essential requirements is that they must carry a crispy topping , to maintain the essence of the roscones. “For example, now that we are in season, I was thinking of making one of boletus and covering it with dehydrated mushrooms ”, he points out.
The consistency and texture is what differentiates the roscones cabinet of the others, since the ingredients, except for the butter, are the same (egg, orange blossom water, milk, honey, sugar, orange and lemon zest and flour) . In addition to its slow fermentation.
“For a good result, it is important take care of fermentation and kneading. This process It lasts over 24 hours and is divided into three phases. We make a first fermentation (of six hours, more or less), we knead, round, form and fill the roscón", explains Teto to Traveler.es.
“Next, the dough is subjected to a cold fermentation of about twelve hours and finally, before baking, we make another at room temperature ”, he points out. This careful elaboration is produced by hand in the workshop of the store.
Sweet or salt? Here's the question...
The result? A roscón of unparalleled quality, which is evident in the alveoli of any sourdough bread. Although for now they do not have options for celiac or without sugar , the cook reveals to us that he will start experimenting with it **after Christmas**.
“What we have done is tune the roscones and offer them throughout the year , something that many people appreciate. Are the first haute rosconería shop in Madrid and pioneers in the salty offer of these threads. That is what differentiates us”, concludes Bargueño.
At the moment they only have one place, but his dream is to be able to open several stores In the city center. On the other hand, if you reside in another part of Spain, you should not worry, also can you do your online order and receive it within 48 hours.
Teto Bargueño next to his roscones shop
Address: C/José Abascal, 29 See map
Telephone: 912 324 319
Schedule: From Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and from 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. Sundays from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.
Additional schedule information: Closed Sunday afternoon and Monday.
Half price: Small roscón €3.5, medium €8 and large €15 (the latter, only on request)