The wonder of reinterpreting traditional cuisine
If you have done the Santiago's road you know the area And if you have arrived by car from the plateau towards the coast, surely too. The Central Galicia is that wide territory that, to understand us, is in the middle of the square whose corners would mark Santiago, Lugo, Ourense and Pontevedra.
It is an area of mountains and valleys, of meadows and forests in which there are no important cities, although there are some towns where they will end up stopping as Melide, Chantada, Lalín, O Carballiño, Silleda or Arzúa.
Communications have improved little by little, the network of rural accommodation is really attractive and, if you already know the most touristic version of Galicia, here you will find another rhythm of life , few places focused on foreign customers (with the sole exception of the towns located on the Camino, for obvious reasons) and a gastronomy which, based on the best local product, is reinventing itself little by little.
The central territory is that Galicia that also exists, although many times we insist on seeing only the Coastal Galicia and the cities ; that destination in which to understand another way of seeing life. And what better way to do it than sitting at a good table?
** THE MILL (LALÍN) **
If there is a reference to the cuisine in central Galicia, perhaps this is it. Not only because it is located in what is known as Kilometer Zero of Galicia. Not just for being in the stew capital and be one of their reference houses. Not only because 25 years ago the same family has made it a benchmark for best meat and fish.
If that weren't enough, add a second generation trained in the best restaurants (Diego, the chef, was working with Pepe Solla, Paco Roncero or the Torres Brothers, among others), a combination of traditional cuisine, contemporary cut menus and Mexican winks marked by family closeness to that country. And add a wonderfully selected winery. What more do you need?
** CABINS (LALIN) **
50 meters above La Molinera is Cabanas, the other large gastronomic reference in the town and in the region. Second generation already at the helm, too, and a consolidated fame based on a mythical stew and great classic dishes that bring regulars from all corners of Galicia to this place.
** TO STOP DAS BESTAS (PIDRE, PALAS DE REI) **
A Parada represents much of the best that Central Galicia has to offer. 6 km from Palas de Rei, in the small village of Pidre, this rural house full of charm welcomes what is surely the benchmark restaurant in the area. Galician cuisine , with slight updates, tasty, elaborated with care and served in an environment in which it fits like a glove.
** OR TOBO DO LOBO (MELIDE) **
Melide is surely the most outstanding town on the final stretch of the Camino Frances. And although it is known above all for its grocery stores , the truth is that it has much more to offer: from a surprising variety of traditional sweets to the elaboration of an artisanal vermouth passing, of course, through a proposal of contemporary cuisine such as O Tobo do Lobo.
After a stage in important London restaurants and after passing through Santiago, Miguel Liboreiro returned to the region where his family is from to dare with a local current galician cuisine , without excesses, which little by little has been gaining the favor of the public in the area.
** TO FARAGULLA (CHANTADA) **
Something similar happens with A Fagulla, the reference in the Chantada region. It is a place that started as a wine cellar and that little by little has been growing to make a name for itself in the cuisine of the province.
Currently they not only offer a tasting menu with a Great value for the price but they have just opened a second area where they prepare local grilled meats.
** ECO HOTEL NOS (SILLEDA) **
A stone's throw from Silleda, in the interior of Pontevedra, is this beautiful restaurant in which every detail has been carefully selected and whose restaurant is committed to a philosophy based on the local product , seasonal and ecological.
** KNOW (OR PARAMO) **
The Sabe restaurant is located inside the Lost Hours Complex , in a baroque mansion that becomes the perfect base to get to know this part of the province of Lugo.
Through tasting menus that explore the local product , but also the history of the kitchen, the Sabe team develops a unique cuisine in the area that is worth knowing.
NOT ONLY RESTAURANTS
In addition to the restaurants mentioned, central Galicia has a immense gastronomic potential , not always well known, which manifests itself through products and traditions that are worth discovering.
It is the case of breads like Ousá , made in the village of the same name in the municipality of Friol, from the cheeses protected by the D.O. Arzua-Ulloa but also from some of the D.O. Teat and other elaborations without denomination that can be found in the Antas de Ulla market or in towns such as Agolada, Curtis or Palas de Rei.
This is also the case of Mougán peppers, less known than others, such as Herbón or O Couto, but equally interesting; of sweets such as rico, gingerbread and almond in Melide , gingerbreads and donuts from Silleda or the Guitiriz corn cake ; of the eel empanada that can still be found in some bakery in Portomarín.
Or projects such as Leche Quintián (O Páramo) or the **Airas Moniz cheese factory (Chantada) **, Bisqato (Guitiriz) or Cortes de Muar (Silleda), initiatives that not only show that rural Galicia is alive but also has the capacity of offer excellent products . It is worth contacting any of them and getting to know them first-hand, chatting with the people behind them and, of course, trying their products.