Barrier, "necessary" eating house
A handful of years ago, when the gastronomic boom prior to the crisis brought out the most fake side of the hotel industry, the " eating houses "they were looked at suspiciously, almost like a thing carpetovetónica and galdosiana that, totally immodest , his days were numbered.
But the skinny cows arrived and –there is no harm that does not come for good– they opened our eyes to what is now blessed evidence: the triumph of authenticity over pastiche , of the true food house in front of the gastrobar disguise, of the flavors without cheating against the cardboard decorations.
That is why in this new section that we are launching today in Condé Nast Traveler –and that each week will feature the voice of experts in good food such as Alejandra Ansón , MisterEspeto , Leyre Iracheta & Mingo Pablo , Potoko and Jesús Terrés – we wanted to open fire with Barrier , a Madrid food house that against wind, tide, crisis and fashion remains faithful to its inimitable style book.
His fame of secret restaurant It is surprising at this point in the film, since all those who discover it (the undersigned here included) inevitably tell it where they can at the top of their voices. But who knows, maybe it's Anna Barrera , a philosopher with a passionate conversation – raise your hand if you have talked about the deconstruction of Derrida, and not Adrià, with a cook – strives to honor her last name and stay behind the fanfare to limit herself to what she likes: feed. And how.
Their potatoes Revolconas – So typical of Ávila, Zamora and Salamanca– they are a must-see classic even if it's 40 degrees out there (what difference does it make), and they serve as a welcome while she decides what to choose from among all the suggestions that Ana herself sings. The bad thing is that, what to choose.
On our last visit we started with a delicate salad, candied artichokes because it was the season – temporality here is sacred, needless to say –, pickled partridge with red cabbage , another of her great hits, the ventresca, perfectly crisp suckling lamb chops and, as a climax, a apple strudel with candied tangerine and a nougat coulant capable of seamlessly convincing a table that is not very friendly with cloying people.
Barrera nougat coulant
With the coffees came the bill , handmade with the same meticulousness of someone who took the Thermomix to a loft after verifying that this was not his thing and preferred to continue turning the frying pan, the saucepan and the pots from her eating house. That concept that is so fashionable now... but so few manage to emulate.
BARRIER
Address: Alonso Cano 25, 28010 Madrid
Telephone: 915 94 17 57
Half price : €50-60
Barrera's account or costumbrista art
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