The streets of this small town in Cadiz collect the memory of the tragic events of 1933
Although the sign at the entrance to the town makes it very clear where we are, the reality is that Benalup-Old Houses It has changed its name countless times. In fact, less than 30 years ago it managed to break away from its neighbor Medina Sidonia , which gives us the first curiosity of this article: We have just arrived in one of the youngest municipalities in Spain.
Having said that, we have to clarify another aspect: the town is located in the heart of the region of La Janda, among great Cadiz attractions such as Vejer de la Frontera, Barbate or Los Alcornocales National Park.
Less than 30 years ago it managed to disintegrate from its neighbor Medina Sidonia
Its neighbors gather so much attraction that, on occasions, our destiny comes to pass somewhat unnoticed. For this reason, those who come to it do so conscientiously: they come willing to enjoy their surroundings, knowing that it has an offer that is a true festival of outdoor activities; right They have heard about those historical events that occurred in the town in the first half of the 20th century, and they want to know more details. In our case, we opted for the latter.
THE TRAGEDY THAT SHOCKED A PEOPLE
So let's get serious. It's time to talk about the episode that sadly made this place famous: known as Events of Casas Viejas. That's how it came to be called peasant-led anarchist insurrection that broke out in January 1933 —in the middle of the Second Republic and in the context of a general strike that, in the big cities, had been a failure—, and that was suffocated by the forces of order with a result of 22 deaths. The peasants, driven by the misery that devastated the Andalusian countryside, had proclaimed libertarian anarchism. What happened from there was so significant that the news ended up crossing our borders.
To know the details of the events, there is a whole route marked with information panels and old photographs -there is also an online route- that highlights the key places of those events and that runs through the streets of Benalup.
We bet on another option: that of sign up for one of the guided tours led by Rubén, one of those responsible for the Tourist Office, which is responsible for adding to the route a much more pleasant, close and emotional narration.
The layout and some emblematic buildings of the town are easily recognizable
The visit starts at the top of the town. From a great vantage point we compare the panorama that extends at our feet with the one reflected in an old black and white photograph: although the differences are notable —the population of 33 was approximately 2,500 people; today there are 7,000—, the essence remains: the layout and some emblematic buildings of the town are easily recognizable.
After going down a couple of hills we crossed the imaginary border of what, at that time, formed the entrance to the town. Nearby is a small square with a charming fountain in the middle: The union, made up of some 550 members, was located in this space, where a large part of the uprising took place. A little later, the San Elías and San Juan streets, where the houses of the wealthiest families were concentrated and located in the center of town, they are also part of our route.
In the old house-barracks of the Civil Guard, a house in front of the Church of Our Lady of Socorro, we make a stop. Today, in her Catherine lives, an endearing lady with whom we ran into next to the entrance and who does not hesitate to tell us - us and anyone who wants to chat - that she was born in February 33 and that is why she does not remember anything of what happened. Until the Covid appeared in our lives, he even invited tourists to enter his home to see, with their own eyes, the cupboard in which the civil guards made a hole to allow their families to escape from the barracks house in the midst of the rebellion. Next to the facade of his house, a photograph shows him.
Catalina lives in what used to be the Civil Guard barracks
The old one San Raphael Guesthouse, Two steps away, today it has been transformed into a restaurant: a temporary barracks was installed there where the official reinforcements sent by the Government were established—a large contingent of Civil and Assault Guards—to repress the revolt. Among them was Captain Rojas, responsible for the massacre that would take place later.
It is curious that the journalists who came to cover the events, such as Ramón J. Sender, also stayed here. In fact, It was thanks to the great media coverage that the photographic archive of this small Cadiz village, even from the 1930s, is so rich.
Ruben joins us to the place where the cemetery was once found: there where a large part of those shot peasants lay for days, Today there is a playground.
A little higher, in the place where he was the shack of the neighbor known as Seisdedos which the Assault Guards set fire to - eight of the revolutionaries died in it, who were refugees and mutineers inside -, today is the Casas Viejas Commemorative Space 1933, obligatory stop and end of the route.
The town became a symbol of anarchist freedoms around the world
In the solemnity of its interior you can know the details of this unfortunate story, understand why the events occurred and the causes that motivated them. It is also possible assign name, surnames and history to its 22 victims. On various exhibitors, a compilation of articles and reports published in the press of the time complement the documentation. On the wall, a screen with an emotional video summarizes much of that episode.
Those days of confusion and confrontations not only caused Benalup-Casas Viejas to concentrate all eyes: it also caused the town to become a symbol of anarchist freedoms around the world.
BEYOND THE FACTS
However, in addition to knowing the historical facts, a short walk through Benalup allows you to discover that other face that the town also has. As always, the key to immerse yourself in the essence of the place is next to the church: There, in the square, the older ones talk about the mundane and the divine under the shade of the trees while the children run around and laugh incessantly. Meanwhile, the bells announce, from the top of their tower and with absolute punctuality, every quarter past one and a half.
We look at the bell tower, more recent than the rest of the building: the previous one fell due to the strong easterly winds so typical of these parts. The style? Most eclectic: Neoclassical in appearance, with Mudejar-inspired bricks and columns reminiscent of Rome. Inside, more fusion: its sobriety is reminiscent of Protestant churches.
The uprising left 22 dead.
You have to climb a small hill from the church to reach the perfect place to have a good plate of chickpeas with tagarninas: La Fábrica, one of the most emblematic restaurants in Benalup, will make us regain strength.
Walking and retracing the old streets, reaching the highest part of the town, gives us the experience of running into old houses whose doors would deserve a good photographic report. In fact, there is even an online route that invites you to stop at some of them.
It would also be a good idea to get closer to the food market, today almost abandoned, and contemplate the curious murals that fill the facades of the area with life —and some other costumbrista scene.
To end our particular walk, with another more current perception of the municipality, one last surprise: the Jerome R. Mintz Cultural Center, an American university professor who, interested in the events of Casas Viejas, dedicated a large part of his life to visiting the municipality and investigating the events. The building's assembly hall has a wonderful photographic exhibition that shows the most authentic Benalup: the one that the stranger was able to capture with his camera, based on trips, seasons in the town and trust with the neighbors, throughout the 80s.
Know the details of this unfortunate story, understand why the events occurred and the causes that motivated them