The most beautiful cemetery in Spain is in Cadiz
Perhaps thus, at first, the name of Villaluenga del Rosario It sounds rather little to you. Normal, we are talking about the smallest town in the entire province of Cadiz . Who would pay attention to a municipality that has only a few 450 inhabitants ?
Well, we are sorry to tell you, dear friend, that you have just confessed one of the biggest mistakes of your life. And it is that Villaluenga is not only one of the famous -and beautiful- White Towns of Cadiz : it is also the place where it hides the most beautiful cemetery in all of Spain . So how do you read it.
And you will say, but what makes this peculiar cemetery ? Well, precisely the place where it is located. because this time It's not on the outskirts of town , as usual. The Villaluenga del Rosario cemetery is located in the bowels of a historic church in ruins that dominates the territory from above.
We confess it: only with this cover letter, We have fallen at his feet.
Streets of Villaluenga del Rosario
So we don't think twice and plant ourselves in this little corner of the south located on an immense rocky massif -it is also the town located at the highest altitude in the province-, to walk its steep streets with a clear objective: to find the old Church of the Savior . Or what is the same, visit the local cemetery.
On our small-town tour we come across streets that have that characteristic aspect of the south: whitewashed walls and pots with colorful flowers they welcome us. So do the neighbors, who admired that the traveler stops at what they consider home, they greet us without hesitation. “The Church of the Savior? Yes, of course, above…”. Well here we go.
Although of muslim origin , some finds date back to the Lower Paleolithic human presence in these lands. Nearby, up to thirty caves have been found, many of them with cave paintings inside, which are the key. However, it is the Arab essence that is breathed through the streets of Villaluenga while we take a breath and continue our ascent towards the village summit.
The old dome lurking in the cemetery of Villaluenga del Rosario
Eah, and finally we arrived. The old tower of the Church of the Savior , built in 1722 , stands before us with impetus, visible from almost anywhere in the town and its surroundings. It is one of the very few remaining parts of the building.
The reason? It turns out that during the War of Independence the Napoleonic troops they attacked the entire area, including Villaluenga del Rosario. The payoyos , as the locals were known, fought tooth and nail, with force and fierceness, but only achieved the most violent reaction from the Gallic soldiers.
One of the consequences was precisely this: the Church of the Savior was set on fire and thus completely destroyed. It burned until it lost a large part of its roof and its vault: only some areas such as the interior vault arch , the four pendentives or the high altar they managed to resist.
The scrawny temple skeleton has remained, facing the weather and inclement weather, until today. And yet its beauty remains maximum.
The old vault of the Church of El Salvador
It was in 1809 when the residents of Villaluenga made the decision to use the land of the ruined church for other chores . In fact, that was the date on which the first burial.
But this was only the beginning. The old temple ended up transforming into a beautiful place in which the niches and tombs conquered the space. Gradually, over the years, the old Iglesia del Salvador became the municipal cemetery.
We pass through a simple gate and enter it like someone who discovers a treasure. Absorbed by the peculiarity of the place, we let ourselves be fooled by its details. The flowers brighten the space as they already did with the streets of the town. The tranquility is maximum. The feeling of recollection and respect, immense . Even that Renaissance essence that inspired the construction in its origin can be felt.
One of the corridors of the cemetery of Villaluenga del Rosario, Cádiz
Numerous tombs have well-cared hedges decorating their surroundings, although there are many more niches. Over time, they have been embedded in the imposing old church walls until they form a single whole. As if they had been there all their lives.
We walk the corridors of the cemetery, we pass under ancient arches and we contemplate the sky just by looking up. The connection between the earthly and the heavenly, here, is direct . The architectural value of the enclave is unique.
At this point, we stop, recapitulate and reflect. And yes, it will turn out that those who said so were right: this secret corner has conquered us. There cannot be a more beautiful cemetery than the one in Villaluenga del Rosario . A beautiful little piece of heaven in Cádiz.
Streets of Villaluenga del Rosario