Funeral pyres light up Varanasi at dusk
If there is something that characterizes the landscape of the city most revered by Hindus, it is its ghats , a kind of stone steps that capriciously descend to the waters of the Ganges. In them, from the first light of dawn, the most varied scenes of the daily life of its inhabitants follow one another: the morning bath that dissipates sins, meditation, washing clothes... but nothing deserves as much respect as the cremation ceremonies that take place at the Manikarnika Ghat , where 200 to 300 cremations take place every day.
"No cameras," warns us Ashoka, a volunteer in one of the city's hospices that care for elderly people without resources and try to raise funds so that they are cremated according to the Hindu rite, which is not always possible given their high cost. The Hindus, accustomed to living without privacy, they are, however, very jealous of the intimacy of their dead . You can attend cremations, but woe to those who try to take out the camera to try to immortalize them. We witness first-hand the heated discussion of several Indians who have caught a Japanese "red-handed" firing his powerful machine.
Thanks to Ashoka we occupy a preferential place in the Ghat, on a staircase, from where it is possible to follow each of the steps of the cremation ritual. This affable and cordial man tells us in great detail the fascinating ritual that takes place before our eyes.
The morning bath dispels sins
Before arriving here the body of the deceased has been washed and wrapped in a shroud. To transport the corpse, it is placed on a kind of stretcher made of bamboo. The people in charge of carrying it on their shoulders to the place of cremation are the members of the family, who throughout the journey will recite in an endless litany “Ram Nam Satya Hai” ("Mr. Ram's name is the real truth") . Arriving at the place where the cremation will take place, the family hands over the body to the “doms” . Belonging to the lowest caste system in India, these untouchables assume, however, a crucial role throughout the ceremony, as they are in charge, among other things, of building the funeral pyre of the deceased.
It will take a few 300 kilos of wood to consume the body (depending on the size of the person) . Five different types of wood are used and the proportion of each depends on the social class to which the deceased belongs. The sandalwood is the most expensive, about 2000 rupees (28.7 euros) per kilo and the cheapest about 200 (2.8 euros). Namely, the simplest ceremony comes to cost at least 800 euros , an astronomical amount for most Indians. "The greater the proportion of sandalwood - Ashoka tells us - the richer the family will be". In the ceremony we are attending, the proportion between the different types of wood is very similar, it is, therefore, a middle class family.
The doms begin to build the funeral pyre, while the body of the deceased is submerged in the Ganges waters for purification and then deposited on the steep steps of the ghat. The oldest son, who we already see on the scene, is the one who will assume the main role in the ceremony. He has previously shaved his hair and dressed a white piece around his body. Once the funeral pyre is prepared, the first-born turns it five times counterclockwise, which symbolizes the return of the body to the five elements of nature.
One of the most transcendental moments of the whole ritual arrives, light the pyre . For this you have to buy the fire to the Raja Dom, the king of the doms, the only person with the right to guard day and night Shiva's sacred fire , the only legitimate one to light the campfire. The price is not fixed and depends on the economic status of the family. The son of the deceased and the Raja Dom argue for a few seconds and after payment, the former gets the precious llama.
It takes 300 kilos of wood to consume the body
The entire ritual takes place in complete silence. It is believed that expressing pain or sorrow can disturb the transmigration of the soul. For this reason it is rare to find women in the cremation ceremony, more prone to crying and lamentation. Also, according to Ashoka, attempts are made to prevent the widow from attending the ritual to prevent her from trying to self-immolate herself along with her deceased husband, something that became quite common in the 19th century. It is called "sati", a Hindu practice that symbolizes the supreme devotion of the wife towards the husband. Abolished by law, it ceased to be practiced many decades ago, with the last known case occurring in 1987*.
It will take about three hours for the body to burn to ashes and during that time, relatives wait patiently around the pyre. About an hour and a half later, skull explosion, a crucial moment, as it symbolizes the liberation of the soul of the deceased. The ashes are deposited in the Ganges, beginning, for the family thirteen days in which they must lead a pious life, making offerings and following a strict vegetarian diet. At the end of that time, it is believed that the transmigration of the soul from earth to heaven . The deceased has reached nirvana, which is a reason for joy for his relatives, who celebrate it with a great meal.
Not all Hindus have the right to be cremated, with the following exceptions: children under 10 years since they are considered still immature (instead they are submerged in the river with a stone tied to their body), the men with leprosy so as not to anger the fire God , which would result in more people contracting the disease. Finally, neither are those whose death has been produced by a snakebite and pregnant women.
I say goodbye to Ashoka, fascinated by the rite that I have just seen, and convinced that India is a different world, unique, and for better or worse, one of the most extraordinary places that exist on earth.
If you are lucky enough to go to Varanasi, do not miss Manikarnika Ghat. Ask for Ashoka (everyone knows him), to have, in exchange for a tip, an interesting lesson on Hinduism.
*For those interested in learning more about sati, I highly recommend author Mala Sen's book 'Sacred Fire'.