The Valtellina region and its winding roads
Bormio is a commune in the Italian Alps, a crossroads and a commercial strategist since its origins. Among the peaked mountains of the mountain range, the nucleus of this small town appears as if it came out of nowhere and, suddenly, It gives the feeling of having entered a world of fiction.
On a normal day in Bormio, there is no rush or traffic or even stress. Everything slows down... If it weren't for the fact that it has just been celebrated in this small place, a rally of classic cars that made their engines purr to wake the machine after the icy dew of alpine nights. The Summer Marathon from ** Cuervo y Sobrinos ** arrived in Bormio this weekend... and it looks like it's here to stay.
An Aston Martin that at the time was bought for 650 pounds sterling, an old car that was used to load and unload contraband on the Italian-Swiss border during World War II, a Mercedes Benz from 56... So up to 46 cars going up and down the winding roads of the alpine mountains: an unforgettable place for a high-ranking career which culminated in a winner: a Lanza Astura from 1938.
Arrival of the first stage at Kerch Square in Bormio
But really, those of us who won were those who attended the race: without the burden of thinking only about the stopwatch, the weather became lax in the Valtellina region . In fact, a strange phenomenon occurs in this valley: the hours expand at the moment of replenishing energy , during lunch and, above all, at dinner. pasta and risotto They are the true protagonists of a caloric diet, designed for the cold winter and icy summer nights.
Arriving at the first stop of the race in Teglio (of course, at lunchtime) it was curious, not to say sweet, to meet a nice and corpulent lady with rosy cheeks who did not stop offering me, with a huge smile, a good plate of Pizzoccheri : a pasta made with buckwheat, boiled potato, cabbage leaves and, of course, lots and lots of Grattugia grana cheese. All washed down and well washed down with a good red wine from the region, strong, rough, fruity . I can assure you, and I assure you, that with a single plate and with the 26 degrees that it was at that moment at the top of Teglio, it was enough. But who could resist the insistence of an Italian mamma? Not me, of course.
To the rich Pizzoccheri!
With a well-filled crop I wondered what would Bormio have to be the starting point of a career of this style , in addition to the obvious: the good pantry of the most Nordic Italy. The answer was found the next day, during the most beautiful stage of the entire route, the Stelvio Pass : we left the center of Bormio on winding roads that stumbled, at every step, with tunnels carved into the rock . Suddenly, at the exit of one, the road began to climb from one side to the other in an asphalt reptile which reminded me of the route of the protagonist of "Where is my friend's house?" by Kiarostami.
High above, however, was not a single tree, but more road. Again, time stood still in Valtellina , between curve and curve. I started listening to the aging engines and realised: the big reason for this whole race was the course itself . I couldn't imagine better views to enjoy from a vintage convertible, or driving on more adrenaline-producing roads.
Bormio and the bodies of another century
Reach the top, at 2,760 meters high, where dozens of bikers of different nationalities ate Bratwürste as they took in the breathtaking views, it confirmed my theory: the dangerous and twisting alpine roads are the candy of everything driving lover , whether on two wheels, four or even on a body from another century.
But not only wine, pizzoccheri and captivating views man lives. Back in the town of Bormio, I bumped into the third reason for so much love for the motor in a lost place in the Alps: thermal rest . The alpine mountains are generous and forgiving and century after century have provided thermal baths for the inhabitants of the area. Around the springs and with the construction of the main road that would structure the town at the beginning of the 19th century, the Grand Hotel Bagni Nuovi in 1836.
At the top of the Passo dello Stelvio
And what does this hotel offer? The pleasure made water. A kind of underground floors with glass doors that only reveal steam and condensation. Behind these clouds lies paradise: baths at different temperatures, hot pools with hydromassage, waterfalls, saunas... and warm water pools outside, with views of the mountains . I am convinced: Heidi would have wanted it that way.
"Don't underestimate the power of a people," I tell myself now. Bormio hides a history of democratic, roguish, commercial survival... it has always survived as a town passing through the mountains that serve as a union between Switzerland, Italy and Austria. But it is proven that it never hurts to stand in the way.
The pools and other aquatic gifts of the Grand Hotel Bagni Nuovi