Eleven Madison Park: The New Kings
First reading: That Eleven Madison Park ($295 per guest excluding wine) is number one means, for starters, that ** 50 Best opts for conservatism on the table:** Humm's gastronomic proposal is more attached to a classic 'fine dinning' (such as El Celler) rather than more radical proposals such as Noma or Mugaritz. To continue, the American continent adds up and continues (Virgilio Martínez at 5 and Maido at 8, both Peruvians) and let alone the consolidation of New York as the gastronomic capital of the world : Blue Hill at Stone Barns by Dan Barber is added at 11 and Le Bernardin at 17.
Etxebarri Grill
Good news: **Etxebarri rises to sixth place in a continuous ascent**. Will we see it one day in the winners' drawer? It would make us happy and would only strengthen what we have been saying for so long at Mantel & Knife: the avant-garde is dead. ** Albert Adrià's Tickets rises four places to 25th ** (and Enigma, will we see it in 2018?) . El Celler de Can Roca is the restaurant with the best room service in the world , is what the 'Art Of Hospitality Award' comes to say. And I add: Long live Pitu! In addition, ** Enjoy enters the World Top 100 ** and receives the 'Miele One To Watch Award', that is: watch out for Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch and Mateu Casañas.
Bad news: year after year, the Spanish influence on the "hottest list on the planet" fades (Ferran's word). El Celler de Can Roca drops to third place, Mugaritz drops two places to 9, Eneko Atxa's Azurmendi drops to 38 (from 16!) and Arzak drops to 30 (drops nine places).
Quique Dacosta fell to 62 and Martín Berasategui to 77. Nerua drops one position to 56 and DiverXO disappears from the map as if by magic Has the overwhelming media presence hurt David Muñoz? (I'm talking about jealousy on the part of the guild, of course). In short: life goes on.
Azurmendi (Spain)
One more point: Why is the Spanish presence fading? Do our chefs cook worse? I have a theory: the jury votes on the restaurants it visits and Tourism of Spain (in Are we selling our gastronomy well? We dissect the shortcomings of our gastronomic branding without Vaseline) as well as each of the tourist boards of each Autonomous Community they are doing very little to consistently promote our large (and small) restaurants. You just have to look at the example of Flanders or Melbourne, which bring journalists from all over the world to learn about their proposals. This is how the kitchen of a country is sold.
It's about awards: the best pastry chef in the world (relieving Jordi Roca) is Dominique Ansel, also from New York. Virgilio Martínez from Central in Peru is the 'Chefs' Choice Award' sponsored by Estrella Damm. **The wildest entry ('Highest New Entry') goes to Yannick Alléno from Alléno Paris ** and the best cook is Ana Ros from the Hisa Franko restaurant. Osteria Francescana is the best restaurant in Europe (but loses number one).
Tickets (Barcelona)
HOW DOES 50 BEST WORK?
First, who votes? Almost 1,000 professionals from all over the world vote confidentially (through a web page) , divided between great chefs, restaurant owners and food journalists. The Restaurant divides the world into 27 regions, with each region having its own panel of 37 experts. In Spain, the person in charge is Cristina Jolonch, from La Vanguardia. How are these 37 experts chosen? Cristina chooses them and there is no more talk.
Each “expert” votes for seven restaurants , of which at least three votes must be for locals located outside their region ( and must have eaten at some time in the last 18 months ) . This last point, obviously, remains in the hands of the "honorability" of the voter. Come on, it doesn't matter.
Pekines DuckXO at DiverXo
THE LIST
11.Blue Hill at Stone Barns (United States)
12.Arpège (France)
13.Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée (France)
14.André Restaurant (Singapore)
15. Piazza Duomo (Italy)
16.D.O.M. (Brazil)
17. Le Bernardin (USA)
18. Narisawa (Japan)
19.Geranium (Denmark)
20. Pujol (Mexico)
21.Alinea (United States)
22. Quintonil (Mexico)
23.White Rabbit (Russia)
24.Amber (China)
25.Tickets Bar (Spain)
26.The Clove Club (England)
27.The Ledbury (England)
28.Nahm (Thailand)
29.Le Calandre (Italy)
Enrique Olvera, the Mexican revolutionary (on the decks)
30.Arzak (Spain)
31.Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen (France)
32.Attica (Australia)
33.Astrid&Gaston (Peru)
34.De Librije (Netherlands)
35.Septime (France)
36.Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (England)
37.Saison (USA)
38.Azurmendi (Spain)
39.Relae (Denmark)
40.Cosme (USA)
41.Ultraviolet (China)
42. Borago (Chile)
43.Reale (Italy)
44.Brae (Australia)
45.Den (Japan)
46.L'Astrance (France)
47. Vendome (Germany)
48.Tim Raue (Germany)
49.Tegui (Argentina)
50.Hof Van Cleve (Belgium)
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Tasting menu 2013 of Astrid & Gastón in Lima