A beautiful sunset over the Mekong River as it passes through Laos
The French said at the time of their rule over Indochina that “The Vietnamese plant rice, in Cambodia they see it grow and in Laos they listen to it grow” . A phrase that perfectly sums up the idiosyncrasy of this last country, literally sandwiched between China, Burma, Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam. Because for many Laos is the slowest and calmest country in Southeast Asia (which is saying something). But as you head south, when it seems your blood pressure can't go any lower, just as the Mekong widens , we met with Yes Phan Don , more popularly known as 'the 4,000 islands' . The place where life goes slowly, very slowly...
And we are determined to find out if it is true that this hidden place is truly the mecca of those who have decided to simply vegetate . Here we go. To reach 'the 4,000 islands' we flew from Bangkok to Pakse, the most important city in the South of Laos. From there a van and a small boat finally leave us at Don Det , one of the islands that make up this curious archipelago and one of the three largest along with Don Kong and Don Khon.
In Don Det there are only rudimentary wooden huts, there are no cars, there is only electricity from 6 pm to 10 pm and, indeed, there is not much to do apart from swinging in a hammock and looking at the succession of tiny islands, hundreds, even thousands, that the Mekong discovers in its retreat in the dry season. The landscape is fascinating and certainly one is immediately enveloped in a drowsiness disturbed only occasionally by the noise of a motor boat passing through the river. I wonder how long it will take some luxurious hotel chain to discover this paradise and build one of the many resorts that will break the magical tranquility that is breathed.
Idyllic path of palm trees on the island of Don Det
The sign that presides over the Bakery, where they assure me you can find the most delicious cakes in all of Southeast Asia, confirms that here one has to take life very calmly: “If you are in a hurry, you are in the wrong place” (if you are in a hurry, you are in the wrong place) reads the proclamation. Nothing more in line with reality because the time it takes to bring me one of the famous cakes and a plate of fruit is the equivalent of the time it takes to read 60 pages of my book. After an hour and a quarter of waiting, I finally manage to eat my breakfast. The pineapple cake is really fantastic, but did it have to take so long?
Who dares to reach 'The 4,000 islands? Well, from stressed executives to young backpackers, through retirees and couples looking for intimacy. Simply everyone who is looking for a little peace and quiet with an exceptional 'plus': the scenic landscape with the Mekong River as a backdrop and green rice paddies. “Our goal is to make you happy” is the slogan of the restaurant where I am. A very laudable purpose, no doubt, and the way to achieve it is through a suggestive menu that ranges from the local marijuana joint to a milkshake with a final 'touch' of grass. But, without a doubt, the star dish of the house is the Special Happy, a "delicious" and nutritious combination of noodles and grass. What if, now I understand why the owner, a certain Wat, spends the day lost in thought.
There is not much to do in the '4,000 islands', some waterfalls, a very rare species of dolphins, the irrawaddy, almost impossible to see, a day of fishing, a bike ride, but above all, sit in a hammock and learn to enjoy one of the last havens of peace that still exist in the world.
The small waterfalls of the Mekong, near 'The 4,000 islands'
Where to stay: There is not much on offer, but there are some very affordable gems. Like Sala Ban Khon, with colonial-style rooms, bungalows over the Mekong, and delicious food with a French twist.
'The 4,000 islands' is indicated for: who seeks to discover unique and different places, away from mass tourism. With a tight budget and ideal for those who travel alone.
Don't go if: you expect a luxurious stay and restaurants with two Michelin stars. And it is not your place either if what you are looking for is to activate the adrenaline.