Fishing boats in Punta Umbría
There is a pasodoble that sings "My Huelva has an estuary and velvet beaches...", and despite the years, he is still right. The Costa de la Luz continues to boast of the radiance reflected in its white sand, in its crystal clear waters... And although it looks suspiciously at Cádiz, because they share nature –and it is not as famous–, this lack of recognition means that silence is still heard among its dunes.
Start the route. 15 kilometers from Huelva's capital, and crossing its famous estuary, is Umbria Point. Point of sand and pine trees, it is bathed by the river Odiel and by the Atlantic. It was a summer resort for the English – yes, those from the mines, those who brought football to our country – and with luck, there are still some English houses from that time.
El Portil Beach, Punta Umbria
For a few years you can enjoy a House-Museum, located at the entrance, to get an idea of what this coastal town was like. Few locals visit it, but it is always a claim for the tourist who fills its beaches… Which, by the way, is also local.
Because Punta Umbria is a lifelong beach, full of umbrellas strewn with well-known brands of beer and well-known brands of moisturizing cream. Its meters and meters of sand are home to people from Huelva but also to Sevillians and even people from Madrid who discovered this paradise and to which they return every summer. Who goes, already wants to return.
There is no better known beach bar on the Huelva coast than ** Mosquito Club, ** El Mosquito for everyone. hippy temple crowned by an Arab tent –where youths of all ages have passed– and where the model Laura Sánchez spends a lot, in addition to the pihippie people of the area. Be careful with the style, which has to be currado without seeming so.
Concerts almost every day -Wednesdays are the best-, Delicious mojitos, windsurf classes and good vibes are the keys to the success of this beach bar. A classic in the afternoons of Punta in Punta de los Ingleses itself.
Continuing towards Portugal, and with the ocean to our left, we walk through the sand and arrive at El Tabla… Or El Tabla Beach Club, officially. A wooden beach bar that delights the young pijolis who spend the summer in this area of the beach.
El Tabla, a good option to have the first drink of the afternoon
Carolina Herrera junior spent the summer there. At noon, families in bathing suits and striped cotton shirts, and in the afternoon, people who decide to have their first drink. Because in Andalusia it starts early.
We continue walking and arrive at Miramar, a restaurant with large windows and many tables, a meeting point for the family meals of Puntaumbrieños, where you can enjoy the famous coquinas or high-quality fresh fish. Place table and cloth tablecloth for somewhat more formal meals.
If we continue the walk through the Boot Beach not only will we be amazed by its measurements – let the people of Cadiz laugh –, we will arrive – looking at Google Maps, of course – at the Ancora street… And finally, ** Casa Gaspar, ** the most “modern” restaurant in this area of Punta Umbría.
Food with good raw materials that Gaspar Jr. sells with a little avant-garde. Although you can find the usual, what never fails: quality frying. It has its own rooms, a good austere option very close to the beach.
The Odiel river as it passes through Punta Umbría
In Punta Umbría there is no promenade as such, there is a promenade that leads to the estuary, which is precisely on the opposite shore from the beach. Here are concentrated stately homes. When the wind blows strong, there are those who take their gear to enjoy the water next to the Club Marítimo, with views of Huelvayork.
There is no more puntuambrian plan than taking a friend's zodiac and bathing with views of this municipality. Although why fool ourselves, having La Bota, it is better to stay there… To enjoy one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world. Just check it out on Instagram. The range of oranges and roses that can be counted is infinite. This is when Punta, as you will affectionately call her, steals your heart.
Leaving the beach area a bit, and continuing with the gastronomic recommendations, If you ask any local where to eat, they will tell you: Los Coloraos. And if you look it up on Google, you might think you've been hesitant, but no, it's called Area.
Because restaurants, like people, also have their own lifelong nicknames. It is impossible not to forget its tasty chocolate dumplings, from his stuffed chocolate or your potato omelette with parsley. Because the cuttlefish is one more inhabitant in this area of Andalusia, one more companion to meals. Hence, the natives are "choqueros" and with great pride.
El Rompido, an obligatory stop on the Huelva beach route
If you walk through Punta Umbría, you will see an interesting mix of cultures. Of Arab medina with white streets –you just have to walk through the Cerrito to check it–, of an English town with its British-inspired homes, of a tiny spot on the Balearic island for its houses with large white-painted porches and curtains of the same color.
And many of these streets and houses have traces of sand on sidewalks and gardens. There are those who presume to arrive as a young man from the beach to the center walking barefoot because there was no asphalt.
And if you walk through the center –already with shoes–, you will reach the Calle Ancha, nerve center of shrimp offers –the white one from Huelva, of course!–, from ice cream parlors, from flip-flop and towel shops.
Meeting point for all those who spend the summer there and who meet up late and every night to walk around for a while and say hello to the neighbours. It loses the glamor of the coast, but it is so authentic that it is impossible not to like it.
El Rompido, an obligatory stop on the Huelva beach route
And next to its Calle Ancha, its "no" promenade, its infinite beach, its picturesque restaurants... One should not miss an ice cream in Plaza Pérez Pastor, soak up history with the little Beacon Tower from the 16th century, take a look at the british tennis club either the parish church of the architect Miguel Fisac.
**Nor a drink at El Cerrito ** –yes, that English house full of people near the Nuestra Señora de Lourdes chapel–, dip bread in cooking oil –that is called a little boat, of all life–, walk around the market and check what the fresh fish is and enjoy its adjoining bars, try the choco eggs, read the story of "the man who never existed" sitting on the sand, watch the sunset... And book a little house, for next year. Just in case.
Los Enebrales Nature Reserve, in Punta Umbría
And if Punta Umbría knows little, an option for more days and continue the route: get in the car and set off –listening to Manuel Carrasco on the soundtrack–, El Portil and New Portil. A road that crosses a natural space of pines and dunes.
With less charm than Punta and much urbanization, it is quick spot for a drink overlooking the Atlantic. Surfer-style bars that can be seen from the road can be a good option. Like the Blue Marlin.
But we continue, that the best is yet to come – it is essential to stop to run out of breath in the Arrow viewpoint of El Rompido –. Now it's time to turn down the music because the last stop on the route is the fishing village of El Rompido, the most luxurious corner of the route.
Marlin Blue, surf atmosphere with views of the Atlantic
With several four and five star hotels – Hotel Fuerte El Rompido is a classic-, it also has a luxury development with its own lake. But the best is outside. Their lighthouse shopping center –it is what so many people from Madrid have to spend the summer there– it has several bars with stunning views of the Río Piedras, Like The Panoramic.
Going down the hill, we find the very modern El Horizontal, a cocktail bar with a mixture of Bali and Ibiza that gives a touch of posture to the area.
And to fill the stomach? It is essential to book at El Caribe II.
Huelva word.
The Horizontal, because a little posturing never hurt anyone