Buddhist monk walking through the narrow streets of Bangkok
It boasts of gastronomy (ask for the ped nig noi crap food if you feel bad about spicy), Buddha images, ultra-modern shopping centers where Paris and Tokyo go hand in hand, first-class hotels at bed&breakfast prices, and of a night scene so fun and varied that it would exhaust Paris Hilton herself. Bangkok has more than nine million inhabitants and an area of 1,600 km2. Most of the places of interest for the traveler are located on the eastern shore , which we have divided into six zones: the Old City, the Chinese and Hindu quarters, the European enclaves around Silom and its shopping centers that continue, increasingly elegant, in Sukhumvit .
Intense, chaotic, sophisticated and traditional, although Bangkok has everything and for all tastes, It is not a city for all audiences: either you understand her or she gets over you, or you fall in love with her or you shy away from her. But the fact is that to enjoy Bangkok you have to trust your instinct to know that what is behind that door without a signal is interesting, forget about vertigo to enjoy a cocktail from the top of a skyscraper, and regain faith to understand the customs. But above all Bangkok is a place to behold. Today, for example, is Monday and that is why you see so many people dressed in yellow, some completely. And it is that here each day is associated with a color, did you know?
RATTANAKOSIN, 'the Ancient City'
It grew on a strategic meander on the eastern bank of the Chao Praya River. Here the 'tourist musts' of those who visit Bangkok for the first time are brought together: the Grand Palace, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha or Wat Phra Kaew, the market of religious amulets, the reclining Buddha of Wat Pho, and the neighborhood of Khao San Road , almost unavoidable stopover and inn for most long-distance travelers to Asia. A stone's throw from here, Phra Athit Road has become fashionable for its small cafes and artsy shops.
To eat... If you like Pad Thai (stir-fried rice noodles) and you are not satisfied with the ones on Khao San Road (richer at the stalls than on the terraces) at Thip Samai (313 Thanon Mahachai) they do it in five different ways but, above all, all, be sure to try the Pad Khee Mao (noodles with crab meat) from Raan Jay Fai (327 Thanon Mahachai) nor the Muslim snacks of Roti Mataba (136 Phra Athit Rd.), a classic, between Khao San Road and the river. And for dessert, sweets from Saffron (86 Phra Athit Rd.).
Pray... Before the Buddha Wat Intharawiharn (114 Wisut Kasat Rd.). It measures 32 meters and is decorated with fragments of gold and mosaics. Its construction took more than 60 years. For penance or to enjoy privileged views, it is worth climbing the 600 steps that lead to Wat Saket.
Enjoy... The best place in Bangkok, perhaps in the country, to receive a Thai massage is the Wat Pho International School, inside the temple of the same name, home to the famous reclining Buddha. Another option is Pai Spa (156 Thanon Rambutri), in a 140-year-old building on Khao San Road.
To buy... Pants, t-shirts, movies, cushions, kittens saying hello, visas, whatever, on Khao San Road . Here, in a wooded inner courtyard, the designer Princess Jae sells clothes, accessories, books, crazy things, cakes, etc. in TheNero (32 Khao San Rd.), complete with a tiny Italian restaurant.
Sleep... By the River: In one of the five colonial-style rooms at Arun Residence. From the terrace of your restaurant Deck by the River if you see the life of the river go by and the sun set behind Wat Arun, on the other bank. Nearby, Chakrabongse Villas (HD: from €125) has history and noble blood. It's just three villas in a lush garden with a jetty and a Venetian boat for picnics on the river.
But before sleeping... Kick back with a cold beer at Hippie de Bar or dance until you drop at The Club (123 Khao San Rd.) .
An advice ... Take refuge from the heat (and the crowd) on the terrace of the Old Phra Athit Pier (23 Phra Athit), on the pier. and have breakfast at mysterpas (140 Phra Athit), actually an Italian restaurant.
Overflowing floating market in Bangkok
CHINATOWN
Following the river south leads to Little India, Pahurat, and Chinatown, Yaowarat. This is, together with Nagasaki, in Japan, the largest Chinatown in the world, and also the oldest. Its central axis is Thanon Yaowarat, a street that runs between shops selling traditional remedies and buying and selling gold. Parallel to this runs the dense traffic of Thanon Charoenkrung or New Road which, curiously, was the first street in the city.
To eat... The samosas that Rajpal Singh has been doing for over 30 years at the stall in an alley on the corner of Phahurat and Chakraphet Tharons. And dim sums and Cantonese fish recipes on the terraces on the corner of Charoenkrung and Soi Texas.
Pray... To the heaviest solid gold Buddha in the world at Wat Traimit, and to the Hindu gods in the Sikh temple adjoining the Indian Emporium shopping mall.
To buy... The most beautiful and strange flowers you can imagine at the Pak Khlong Talad flower market, open 24 hours a day.
Sleep... In the Shanghai of the 1930s at the Shanghai Mansion boutique hotel (HD: €51).
A secret... Behind the glass walls of Misiem's About Studio/About Café (402 Th. Maitrichit) hides this modern art gallery, a true laboratory for artistic projects.
General view of the Royal Palace in Bangkok
BANGRAK
It is located between Lumphini Park and the river and is made up of three arteries, Suriwongse, Silom and Sathorn. Here are the embassies, several of the best hotels in the city and the controversial patpong night market , with its 'girls' bars', a heritage from the Vietnam War.
To eat... Near The Oriental hotel there are a couple of exquisite Thai restaurants housed in old houses: harmony (Charoenkrung Soi 34), with a cozy courtyard decorated with Chinese antiques, and our favourite, Thai Tongue (18-20 Soi 38, Th. Charoen Krung). Totally different is the gastronomic experience in the very modern panoramic restaurants of the skyscraper The Dome at State Tower, As the breeze , with a glass walkway on the 51st and 52nd floors, the Sirocco, on the 63rd floor, with live jazz every day, or the Mezzaluna , at 65, one of the most exclusive Italian restaurants in Bangkok. Patpong is home to the best French bistro in town, Le Bouchon (37/17 Patpong Soi 2, Surawongse Rd.). And in Sathorn, two of our favorite addresses: Secret Garden (117/1 S. Sathorn Rd.), with an English garden and delicious desserts and, almost touching the river, the romantic Baan Klang Nam (288 Soi 14, Th Phra Ram III) specializes in fish and seafood.
Enjoy... With the facials at Leela Thai Herbal Spa (43 Soi Narathiwat 7) and, with the massages at Ruen Nuad (42 Convent Rd.).
Pray... At the colorful Hindu temple Wat Kaen.
To buy... Gems at Lambert Holding Co., on the fourth floor of the Shilom Shanghai (at the end of Soi 17), offers a 35-year purchase insurance. quality crafts in the Asian Heritage Shopping Center OP Place, very close to The Oriental. Chinese contemporary art in the Tang Gallery , inside the Silom Gallery. And clothes, jewelry, candles, gifts of all kinds, the Suan Lum Night Bazaar (Rama IV Road with Wireless and Sathorn Roads), much nicer and more stylish than Patpong.
Sleep... At The Oriental (HD: from €293), where the who is who has been staying for 135 years, at the new Le Méridien (HD: €87), or in Sukhothai (HD: from €120), for many the best in town. Nearby, in Sathorn, there is the Metropolitan (HD: from €108), Banyan Tree (HD: from €138), Anantara Sathorn (HD: from €90) and soon the W Bangkok. Completely removed from the history of its neighbor The Oriental, Lebua at State Tower (HD: €134) has 137 suites with 'New York' views. If you are looking for something cheaper, choose between the 13 zen rooms of the Luxx (HD: €41) and the updated neo-colonialism of The Heritage Baan Silom (HD: €48).
Before sleep... Go to the Moon Bar and Vertigo's, at the Banyan Tree , which set trends in their day. If you have a fear of heights, head to Niu's On Silom (1-2 Silom Rd.), a jazz and blues club, bar, and restaurant; or to Patpong, where the hostess bars are giving way to live music venues, such as the Funky Dojo or Parkbridge.
Close-up of the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho
SIAM & PRATUMAN
In this section of Thanon Rama I, everything revolves around shopping in the big malls.
To eat... In all these shopping centers the gastronomic offer is as wide as that of shopping. But if you walk by Siam Square, don't miss the maguro burgers (tuna) from R Burger (369-398 Rama Rd).
To buy... The ever-crowded MBK (444 Phayathai Rd.) has more than 2,000 stores at good prices and a fifth floor dedicated to mobile telephony. With much more style, the Siam Center (Rama 1 Rd.) is a benchmark for the country's fashion designers, many of whom sell on the third floor: Fly Now, Greyhound, Baking Soda... Siam Center is among others. two mega malls: Siam Discovery and Siam Paragon, with stores like Marc Jacobs, the Ferrari showroom or the Kinokuniya bookstore. The largest shopping complex in Asia, however, is the Central World. Made up of two exclusive department stores, Isetan and Zen, a hotel and a convention center, it is the venue for the Bangkok International Film Festival. But if you are allergic to the malls, the sois or alleys of Siam Square, in front of the Siam Paragon, they are a succession of stores that set trends among the youngest, such as It happen to be a closet (266/3 Siam Sq., Soi 3) , or New Kids on the Wall (between the You are 4 and 5) . For its part, Panthip Plaza (New Phetchaburi Rd.) is a shopping center dedicated to computers at the best prices.
Sleep... At Siam@Siam Design Hotel&Spa (HD: from €123) with post-industrial aesthetics. Before sleep... Have a Martini at Red Sky, the 55th floor alfresco bar and restaurant of Centara World, or in Zense, on the 17th floor of Zen.
An advice... Take a look at the program of the Bangkok Art & Culture Center or BACC (Rama Rd. with Payathai Rd.), the new showcase for contemporary art: music, theater, design, conferences, events...
Exterior of the Siam Paragon shopping center
PLOENCHIT
Continuing east, the great artery Thanon Rama I or Rama I Road, before becoming Sukhumvit.
To eat ... This area is famous for its italian restaurants, concentrated around the tree-lined Soi Langsuan. Among all, Ma Bi Ba (93 Langsuan Soi 5), Calderazzo (59 Langsuan) and Gianni (34/1 Soi Jonson) stand out. Also, try Kobe carpaccio at Butler's, on the ground floor of Gaysorn Mall, Mediterranean recipes with a Japanese twist at Bacchus (Ruam Rudee Village, 6/20-7 Ruam Rudee Phloenchit), and snacks at the Food Court at Mall Central Chidlom , one of the most elegant eating areas in the city.
Pray... . To the god Brahma and his inseparable white elephant in front of the Erawan altar, on the crowded corner of the Gaysorn; and to the fertility gods of the temple between the orchid garden and the nearby canal, made up of wooden phalluses of the most varied invoices.
Enjoy.. . at the Thann Sanctuary Spa , on the third floor of the Gaysorn.
To buy... In Gaysorn, of course, with stores like Myth, a multi-brand space with Thai designers.
Sleep... At the Four Seasons Bangkok (HD: from €130) or at Ten Face (HD: from €47), which offers elegant tuk tuks to get around the city.
But before sleeping... . Go dance at the Ibiza club on the ground floor of the InterContinental hotel. Or let yourself be seen by thanon sarasin : in less than 50 m there are several bars that bring together an Asian clientele, casual and mostly (but not exclusively) gay. our favorite is brownsugar (231/20 Sarasin Rd) , with live jazz.
A secret... The orchid garden of the Swissotel Nai Lert (2 Wireless Rd) is said to be the largest in the world. The oriental-inspired cakes of the Cafe Le Notre (Natural Ville Executive Residence, 61 Soi Langsuan).
Night view towards Sukhumvit Road from Phloen Chit Station
SUKHUMVIT
It is the eastern part of the city and concentrates the most cosmopolitan and chic Bangkok.
To eat... Share the longest table in the city (24 m) with the coolest and most influential people in Bangkok at Long Table (48 Column Bldg., 25th floor, Sukhumvit Soi 16), with DJs every night. On this same Soi, Ten Sui (33 Sukhumvit Soi 16) is probably the best Japanese restaurant in the city. In addition, the well-known positions soi 38 food They share the street with Face (Sukhumvit Soi 38), a multi-space with a Thai restaurant, another Indian, a sushi bar, and a small spa. But our favorite is To Die For (H1 Place, Soi Thonglor, Sukhumvit 55), also very trendy for a cocktail.
Enjoy... Get a four-hand massage at the exclusive Bangkok Oasis Spa (64 Soi Swaddee Sukhumvit 31 Rd.) .
To buy... At the mall Emporium (622 Sukhumvit) , epicenter of the most chic Sukhumvit. Apart from well-known local brands, it houses, on its sixth floor, the TCDC (Thailand Creative & Design Center), with two exhibition halls, the largest graphic arts library in Asia and a design shop.
Sleep... In the romantic mansion The Eugenia (HD: from €131), the only Relais&Chateaux in Bangkok, or in the futuristic Le Fenix Sukhumvit (HD: from €50), with an indoor pool with panoramic views and three restaurants and bars. On Soi 15 there are new design accommodations, among which S15 (HD: from €78) stands out, and Dream Bangkok (HD: from €84), very fashionable because of the beautiful people who swarm through its Flava Bar. smaller, Seven (HD: from €70) has just six bright rooms.
Before sleep... Put on your best clothes and go up to the roof of the Gazeebo club (One Building, Sukhumvit with Soi 1) , where the most beautiful people gather. For something more casual, have a drink on Soi 11, home to some of Bangkok's most famous night spots, including The Nest (on the 8th floor of the hotel Le Fénix), with its comfortable sofas and DJs almost every night , the QBar and the Bed Supperclub always fun Twisted Republic, one of the first interactive bars in Asia, or the Diva night club.
A secret... The 40 rooms of the Ma Du Zi (9/1 Ratchadaphisek) hotel hide behind a fence without a sign, one of the most intimate and elegant addresses in the city. And in an anonymous building on Soi 51 the Agalico English Garden Tea Room (20 Sukhumvit Soi 55) , which is only open from Friday to Sunday.
This report was published in issue 46 of Traveler magazine.