The Heretic Winery
THE METAPHOR HOUSE
The gigantic, strong and nondescript facade seems disproportionate when the eyes land on its little door. However, when it opens, an explosion of light, color, shapes and stimuli of all kinds is unleashed. The Chambre d'Hôtes (guest house) la Belle Vigneronne deceives with a rough and inexplicable exterior, but inside Phillippe and Jérôme have done what they wanted with this great 19th century mansion . In some of its rooms it is so beautiful and delicate that it is scary to profane it and spoil the imaginary cover of a decoration magazine. Only its outdoor patio and pool seem not to shake with human presence. **Under the shade of its little trees, Montagnac pretends to be Marrakech ** and the big house, a riad.
A 19th century mansion
Yes, this unique and personalized accommodation is just a sophisticated bed and breakfast, but its surprise effect exemplifies what it feels like to set foot in this town of just 2,000 inhabitants located in the heart of Languedoc Roussillon . Neither its heritage amazes nor its little shops hypnotize, however it has an I-don't-know-what strange , an aura that only has one explanation: wine and its monopolistic presence in everything that happens in its narrow streets. And Belle Vigneronne does not deny this influence or hide it. Both its name and that of all its rooms have a similar semantic root: the vineyard.
THE GREAT LATIFUNDIUM
Every kilometer that you advance along any of the roads that leave Montagnac behind allows you to understand everything a little more. The asphalt is just one more trail in the sea of vines that covers the small surrounding hills. The town emerges as a solitary island, although small islets appear in the ditches in the shape of a cellar. Among all of them shines the great 'Domaine' par excellence of the region. The universe of Paul Mas may be unknown to the Spanish public. Even for the French, if he investigates far from his zone of influence. However, it is the French winery with the most hectares outside of Champagne, with all its estates within the limits of the Languedoc and with more than 30 references of whites, rosés, reds and sparkling wines. Or what is the same, a lesson on how to diversify the product.
His coquettish headquarters is located just a few minutes from Montagnac and not only serves to soak up the philosophy of the brand and give in to the temptation of tasting its wines in his Cote Mas restaurant. It also offers a whole universe of activities between vineyards where the eno-safari stands out in its amazing quad or horseback riding through its hills. To all this we must add the versatility that gives its new tourist apartments with swimming pool included , where summer is celebrated and intoxicated with pool parties bathed in pink.
Cote Mas Restaurant
THE HERETIC WINERY
The lushness of this region means that the large plane trees accompany the traveler to the high doors of the abbey of Valmagne . Along the way, these tall trees only fulfill the ordinance (and aesthetic idea) of Napoleon to use them to create natural corridors with which to make the entrance to any small town or place of interest more solemn and beautiful. However, already behind the monastic walls, their cups rather it seems that they want to help camouflage and discretion . When, little by little, the yellow stones are glimpsed between the leaves, the surprise is even greater. Valmagne looks like a disguised fortress instead of a place for worship . Or vice versa. It is then that the work of the banana trees and their ability to hide everything is understood. This is how this Cistercian monastery manages to maintain its isolation and silence.
The impressive height of its towers explained with a review of the history of France in the late Middle Ages and their constant bickering between dukes, earldoms, and foreign invaders . In the end, this space destined for prayer also had to be defended because its ideal situation for recollection was also ideal for the defense of the adjacent plains. However, inside the abbey gleams bright, sunny, with one of those flowery monumental gothic cloisters where its fountain and stone pavilion draw scenes of radiant beauty. So far, everything in order.
Valmagne Abbey
However, when stepping on its impressive Romanesque church, the garden of vines that carpets the entrance to the enclosure makes sense. In its small side chapels and in the apse there are no longer rental altars, but large wine vats illuminated with a dim burgundy light . The wine, the real one, that of the common people, has overflowed the chalices and profaned every corner of this temple. What sounds like a demonic episode is really explained with a review of the last centuries of the place. After the French Revolution, Valmagne Abbey was disentailed and sold to a local family who it only took a few decades to recover the great business of the monks: wine . Hence, they took advantage of the insulating power of the church walls to control the fermentation temperature and with it, incidentally, they created the great postcard of this place.
Today, the d’Allaines family continues with its particular tradition and business . The very obligatory visit to the abbey has an epilogue with a tasting of the wines that they currently make with their hectares of adjoining vineyards. Far from what it might seem from the imaginary of souvenirs that surrounds it, It is not about easy broths made for foreigners. Not much less. His link with the abbey today is much more than a commercial coincidence since in the cellar the good old Philippe is looking for a way to make the Grenache, Monastrell and Syrah that flood everything have their charisma . And he achieves it, above all with the use -unusual!- of the Graciano grape from Rioja with which he matures his concoctions.
A masquerade fortress in place for worship
COOPERATIVE SYMPATHY
The nearby town of Florensac It attracts with its own vintner lighthouse: that of Vinípolis. This mix of shop-cava-restaurant is the gateway for visitors to one of those cooperatives that have known how to be self-critical and survive the laziness and carelessness of this type of viticulturist business. The mere fact of having a space like this demonstrates the maturity and consolidation of this popular union. You arrive at Vinípolis with three very clear objectives. The first is to sit at the table of your bistrot and enjoy the simple creations that your Chefs Alexandre and Jean Claude Fabre ingenuity in the kitchen. A more casual version of the menu offered at the nearby Léonce restaurant, where their work is recognized with a Star. All washed down, of course, with the cooperative's wines and the odd infiltrator from the region.
The second mission is to walk along its transparent walkway over the barrels that are stacked on the foundations. A magnet for juicy photos, easy to Instagram and few questions since the view does not offer any trap or explanation. The ultimate goal is to try their wines on any of the colorful counters that adorn the store. . Their wines are very varied and are made for all audiences. Hence, their prices are not very high. Its greatest attraction is **its monovarietal white wines (Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc)** and the tasting suggested here with oysters and shellfish from the nearby étang de Thau.
OTHER WINE TOURISM GAMES
That gourmet and vacationer double ration that Montagnac offers has other points to moor to after being shipwrecked in its waves of vineyards. The route proposed by the Terroir d'art initiative helps the most disoriented tourist to explore paths between vineyards in search of finding the different contemporary sculptures that some local artists have 'planted' here . Starting from the cooperative of this town, the purpose of the walk is to find these little treasures, although deep down it is all about getting to know the vineyard, its terroir and its benefits better.
One of the project apartments
The great project behind the Château de Lavagnac is the icing on the cake of all this great offer. For now it only consists of a golf course, a club and an avant-garde urbanization , but the old palace converted into a luxury hotel will soon open its doors. self-styled as ‘The Versailles of the Languedoc’ , this new complex will come hand in hand with a winery with which to honor its past and quench the throats of its lucky guests.
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