Oteyza bets on tailoring
Carlota Barrera, Ernesto Naranjo or Oteyza. One of these three finalist candidates will be the winner of the highest prize in Spanish fashion, Vogue Who's On Next , which after its success, this year already celebrates its 8th edition. Recognizing excellence is the objective of this wonderful contest, organized by Vogue Spain and awarded 100,000 euros by Inditex.
Both companies, which can boast of being two great references in the textile scene and which in turn have had the support of Huawei , believe that this international initiative that is committed to young talent is a great opportunity for new designers boost their career path.
The Grand Master Theater has been the setting chosen to host the exciting ceremony during which, Jean Paul Gaultier , special president of the jury, will reveal this Thursday May 23 who is the lucky designer.
Caterina Pan?eda, from Oteyza
Last year Palomo Spain was the (currently recognized) award-winning firm , which together with Marcela Mansergas, Juan Vidal, Maria Ke Fisherman, ManéMané, Moisés Nieto and Leandro Cano -the stars of previous editions- make up The Generation Who's On Next.
The rest of members of the jury they will also be important personalities of the world of fashion , for example: Eugenia de la Torriente, director of Vogue Spain ; Mercedes Domecq, communication director of Inditex; Charo Izquierdo, director of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid; Pepa Bueno, executive director of ACME; Helena López de Hierro, director of the Madrid Costume Museum; Carmen March, designer; Lola Carretero, fashion journalist; Alejandro Palomo, designer; Raquel Sánchez Silva, journalist and presenter; and Laura Ponte, model and designer.
And of course, also give your opinion Vogue Spain team : Debbie Smith, creative consultant; Juan Cebrián, fashion director, Cecilia Casero, editor-in-chief of Vogue.es; Sara Hernando, chief fashion editor; Mario Ximénez, editor-in-chief of culture and lifestyle and Rafael Rodríguez Barros, fashion and culture editor.
The prize will allow the winner to develop a business plan, as well as **includes registration in ACME (Association of Fashion Creators of Spain) **, without going through the vote of the general assembly, and the possibility of participate in the next edition of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid , with Vogue Spain as a mentor.
Paul Garcia de Oteyza
WE INTRODUCE YOU TO THE FINALISTS
Carlota Barrera (Gijon)
With Asturian roots, with her creations, Carlota intends to give a twist to men's fashion in Spain , although she also dresses women who are attracted to the image of the opposite gender.
She always under a philosophy based on tradition, craftsmanship and responsibility, which is why she is very involved in the search for the most environmentally friendly materials.
Although her studio is in London, the designer makes her products with materials that evoke her country of origin, in addition to presenting her collections in Spain, of course. Promoting 'Made in Spain' is one of her goals.
“ Paris It is the cradle of haute couture and the great women's fashion shows. But London has the eclecticism of having Savile Row's classic tailor shop and at the same time that it was witness and scene of the birth of punk ”, explains Carlota Barrera.
But beyond design, our wanderlust spirit has made us wonder, What destination would this globetrotter recommend? She doubt resolved:
“ Havana Cuba . I was lucky enough to go several years ago and since then I don't know how much it has changed, but I got to know it as a wonderful city. The colors, the live music on every corner, the cars, games of dominoes in the middle of the street... ”, comments the designer to Traveler.es.
Charlotte Barrera
And, looking ahead to summer, as expected, he opts for the coast of his beloved Asturias . “There are wonderful beaches in Spain, but my favorite is the beach in my town, Porcía. There I lived the best summers of my childhood. And if I had to recommend a place to eat, ** Güeyu Mar is a very good restaurant **, also on the Asturian coast, in the Vega de Ribadesella beach ”, she concludes.
Ernesto Naranjo (Sevilla)
Formed in Central Saint Martins (London) , one of the best design schools in the world, and with a career linked to John Galliano at Maison Margiela, Balmain and Lane Crawford Hong Kong Ernesto Naranjo decided to create his firm in 2004.
Based in Spain, its goal is to design a product for women that is timeless, artisan, simple, intellectual and without codes. 'Family First' is the motto of all his inspiration , since family is a key factor in the brand's DNA. Secondly, the 70's -with his music and artistic mix- has also been one of his referents.
But, if this young Sevillian designer had to choose a destination, what would it be?
“ Japan . I had the opportunity to visit the country thanks to a textile research grant and found it to be a fascinating culture. Japanese society gave me peace of mind and a special education ”, He tells us.
Ernest Naranjo
“I visited small towns to learn how japanese craft techniques were created , like shibori, and I also met an island to the south, okinawa . We travel to the north of the island, where the oldest people in Japan live, who that even at 100 years old they were still weaving ”, Ernesto tells Traveler.es.
In turn, he also agrees with Carlota Barrera that every fashion lover should spend a season in London.
“Any city can make fashion perfect, but I think that ** London combines the necessary ingredients to turn design into a daily conversation topic **, fashion is breathed in all its neighborhoods”, confesses Naranjo.
“I have lived there for eight years, during which I had the opportunity to train in fashion at Central Saint Martins. That's where I started to discover how wonderful this world is ”, he points out.
Summer in the city or on the beach? “ I don't usually go to the beach on vacation. I am quite urban. But when I return to Seville I always run away to some beach ** Huelva **, especially those that are less crowded, where the hand of man has not had much influence”, concludes the designer.
Oteyza (Madrid)
Caterina Paneda and Paul Garcia They are the architects of the Oteyza firm, which seeks to dilute gender barriers through tailoring to measure. Its values are based on respect for crafts and sustainability , supporting a merino sheep breeding recovery project.
Your wish is to introduce new concepts in men's fashion, while at the same time developing prêt-à-porter collections with feminine tailoring . In the future, these two young entrepreneurs would like to establish physical points of sale in ** Asia and the United States .**
And, of course, they also want the award given by WON to be added to the rest of the recognition obtained by the brand: National Fashion Award for Innovative Entrepreneurship 2018 , the opening of the official calendar of Pitti, the presidency of the Association of Spanish Tailors, the foundation of the first Men's Fashion Chair at the IED and its parade with the National Ballet (with more than 18 million views).
Where do you recommend us to travel? Warning: it is a journey only suitable for seafaring souls. Take note!
Oteyza
“One of the most special was without a doubt in the middle of the Cantabrian Sea, on a sailboat that we manned from French Brittany. Perhaps we would not recommend it to everyone, since the sea is very rough, but it is an incredible experience. The intensity of the blue, that is not forgotten”, they comment to Traveler.es.
And, as for a city for fashionistas, these designers resist the charms of London.
"Definitely tokyo . The Japanese country is a benchmark for his way of understanding fashion and crafts . But on the other hand, I also think that Madrid begins to have an effect called by the quality and freshness of its proposal ”, declares one of them.
Plans for this summer? "We are from beaches where you can feel the force of the ocean, an example can be Pantín (A Coruña), in the high estuaries in Galicia , It's wonderful!", they sentence.