King Kong Lady at Casa Bonay: no Stars. Y?
This anecdote could only be in Cádiz because there are things that only happen in Cádiz , which is why the capital of the ‘ live nice ’: The Roca brothers were on tour spending a couple of days in the little cup and stepping on potholes, specifically they were at the Manzanilla Tavern when a group of people from Cadiz recognized them, a huddle formed in the middle of Feduchy street and a genius was released: "Look, quillo... Mastershef's!"
It cannot be a coincidence (almost never is) that Danny Garcia , last and brand-new tri-starrer at that last gala in Lisbon, has changed the macarons of the red guide through the sets of TVE for the Make Eating program.
Nor is it that the planetary referent of that universe called gastronomy is no longer a brilliant cook locked up in his kitchen ( Ferran Adrià or René Redzepi ) but a star of the popular scene like Jose Andres , owner of more than thirty restaurants through ThinkFoodGroup . The last, Little Spain Market with the Adrià, candidate for the Nobel Peace Prize (‘ the food hero ’), one of the 100 most influential people in the world according to the North American magazine Time and stone in the shoe donald trump . How we rejoice.
José Andrés is a cook but he is much more than that, and that is how he summarizes in ThinkFoodGroup what they do: restaurants, hotels, food, media, education and philanthropy. A culinary ecosystem that revolves around people, popular culture and that sincere discourse that is unequivocally committed to building a better world (and not so much around snobbery and that patina of 'luxury and excess' that surrounds everything we understand by haute cuisine): we are doing something completely wrong if we associate excellence with opulence.
It cannot be a coincidence, I insist, that his first Michelin stars They arrived more than twenty-five years after setting foot in their first kitchen (there were two at once for a minibar in Washington, in 2016) nor is it that Google Maps is the recommendation platform that is growing the most in this electric present nor that the latest movement of Instagram is a missile on the waterline of the known : so that future generations can reserve a table without leaving their platform. The hashtag dictatorship is here and I don't know the usual guides are understanding the change, "the criteria by which they qualify have become a bit old", he told us at the time Mikel Iturriaga, author of El Comidista.
Perhaps **Marcos Morán (Casa Gerardo)** is right when faced with that uncomfortable question, is Haute Cuisine exhausted? “ Haute cuisine as a concept is perfect but what it evokes in these times sounds more like dandruff and antiquity to me; I don't like that it is identified with avant-garde cuisine or with classic cuisine in palatial spaces”.
Michelin (which, by the way, has just made public that it will be Seville who will host the 2020 gala of Spain and Portugal ), it is still (eye, because this is so) the world's most respected food guide and also the scale by which a large part of the kitchen universe still moves, but if you also want to conquer the pulse of the public, you may have to look again at its founding keys: free, mobile (the first guide published in 1900 weighed no more than a notepad) and become essential in the heart of the reader. Not in the cook's.