Dingle & Slea Head in County Kerry
For the vicissitudes of life and the choices one makes during it, I had the joy of calling Ireland “home” for over 9 years. I have not lived on the Emerald Isle for a decade, but part of my heart was buried there forever.
I took advantage of those years to explore every part of the island conscientiously, but none seduced me in the way that the Dingle Peninsula did.
Dingle is one of those rare places in the advanced and transformed Europe that still seems oblivious to the passage of time. Nature is powerful there, impassively observing the comings and goings of those humans who, in this corner of Ireland, have decided to play according to their rules, knowing that it would be impossible to try to contravene them.
Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry, Ireland.
The result of this passive status quo is a wild land, with long and lonely beaches besieged by cliffs, dunes and green. Lots of green. But also of small mountains with windswept passes, of vast meadows and virgin islands. And, looking for their place among such dramatic nature, are the small fishing villages inhabited by tough men and women who still continue to communicate in their ancestral Gaelic language.
All of this makes a trip through Dingle one of the best experiences that can be lived in Ireland.
DINGLE WAY, THE SLOWEST AND MOST ADVENTUROUS WAY TO KNOW THE DINGLE PENINSULA
If you only have a few days, The best way to explore the peninsula is by car, following two or three routes that go into the most beautiful places Of the same. However, there are travelers who, knowing of the extreme beauty and purity of the place, decide walk the almost 180km of trails that make up the Dingle Way.
This coastal path is one of the most beautiful of the 30 long distance routes found in Ireland. It is a circular route that begins and ends in Tralee, the capital of County Kerry. The estimated time to complete it is about 8-9 days, but there are not a few who decide to do it in sections on different trips.
The picturesque fishing village of Dingle.
Along the route, walkers explore places as diverse as the top of Mount Brandon – which offers the best views of the peninsula – the rugged coastline of Slea Head, extensive beaches of golden sand –like the one in Inch Beach, famous for surfers and of extraordinary breadth and natural beauty– and vast fields dedicated to grazing.
Without forgetting, towns such as the colorful Dingle, archaeological sites - such as the Gallarus oratory - and places as original as the South Pole Inn, in Annascaul, an authentic temple dedicated to the figure of Tom Crean, a charismatic local explorer who was part of three expeditions to Antarctica in the early 20th century, coming under the command of Captain Robert Scott and Sir Ernest Shackleton.
SLEA HEAD, THE BEST ROAD TRIP IN DINGLE
Regarding road routes on the Dingle Peninsula, three or four different ones can be made. With a little more than a weekend you can explore all of them in depth, but the most successful with travelers is the route that runs through Slea Head on the R559 road.
The bucolic landscapes of Dingle are unparalleled.
The little more than 45 km of road that make up the Slea Head route must be traveled without any hurry, thoroughly enjoying each of the more than a dozen stops that are worth it.
Only then can they be discovered. places like the little village of Ventry, which has one of Dingle's most beautiful and least known beaches, with a system of dunes and a lake.
from the viewpoint of Dunmore Head, the view comprises a long beach battered by the rough ocean and hemmed in by rocky cliffs that are upholstered with green meadows in which the gray and white of the houses stand out.
A similar landscape, but somewhat more dramatic, is the one that surrounds the unpronounceable beach of Coumeenoole. Its wild appearance is such that it was chosen by the producers of the famous film, winner of two Oscars, Ryan's Daughter (1970) as the location of several scenes.
The film 'Ryan's Daughter' was shot on the beach at Coumeenoole.
Coumeenoole is not the only point on the route that is recognized by film buffs traveling through Dingle. The Ceann Sibéal lookout is packed with Star Wars fan cars every summer, Well, scenes from the end of Star Wars: The Force Awakens (2015) were recorded here.
much more intimate the beautiful beach of Clogher Strand, from where you can see Fear Marbh, the northernmost of the three Blasket Islands. These uninhabited islands – they were inhabited until the middle of the 20th century – are a true ode to nature and can be visited by taking the ferry that departs from the scenic Dun Chaoin pier, also situated on the Slea Head route.
And so that nothing is missing, it is necessary to stop at the Gallarus oratorio. Built with ancient stones between the 11th and 12th centuries, in addition to its archaeological and heritage value It is visited to fulfill one of the traditions encouraged by local legends. And it is that the locals affirm that whoever climbs the wall of the oratory to go out through its window, will access directly to Heaven, because his soul will be totally cleansed. The Irish are very superstitious, so almost everyone ends up doing it.
Little town on the beautiful beach of Clogher Strand.
DINGLE, A COLORFUL AND LIVELY FISHING TOWN
The Slea Head route is circular, finding its start and end point in the town of Dingle. This seaside village is the perfect base to explore the peninsula. It is one of those curious places who spend the whole year asleep until summer arrives and celebrate life with an intensity typical of those who know that it will not last long. Those who create this palpable transformation are the tourists.
However, visit Dingle out of season it gives the opportunity to get to know, in a more intimate way, a place where the Gaelic language and traditions are still very present, and its inhabitants continue to leave, every morning, their colorful houses to take their boats and leave the port hoping to catch a good catch.
Foxy John's Bar, in Glen.
This good fishing is reflected in the very tasty dishes prepared in culinary temples like Doyle's Seafood, Out of the Blue and The Boat Yard. The fish and shellfish creams are excellent, as well as the sole, mussels and tuna seasoned with typical Irish sauces.
How could it be otherwise in an Irish town, the pubs are also a must in Dingle. Dick Mack's pints are among the most popular, but there is no other pub more original and fascinating than Foxy John's, a true combo that brings together things as disparate as a pub, a hardware store and a bike rental shop.
At Foxy John's you can literally buy washers of 12 and have a pint of Guinness at the same time. Plus they often have the best live music in Dingle.
Savor that pint of Guinness while you remember the images of the route, with the music of the Irish fiddles in the background, it gives you the answers to the question of why traveling is one of the most intense pleasures of the life.