Tangier, Morocco
Behind the door of the Kasbah time does not pass. There are streets where you only hear silence, the birds early in the morning or the occasional child running amused. However, once you have crossed the arch that separates it from the Medina (the newest part of the city centre), the streets are abuzz with local passersby who rush to finish their purchases before sunset, trade from their shops or talk on their cell phones while walking with determined steps through the winding alleys of this multicultural city.
The kasbah, which served as a citadel in the 10th century (the oldest part of Tangier) and the Medina are connected by the Rue of the Kasbah , which leads to Rue de l'Italie (named for its turn-of-the-century Italian population). Walking it is one of the best ways to immerse yourself in Tangier culture and discover a few treasures that do not usually appear in travel guides.
Our tour awakens the five senses and continually puts them to the test (here you can't choose, they are all used from the moment you get up until you go to bed) . We start at the crossroads that joins Rue d'ltalie, one of the liveliest and busiest arteries in the Medina, with the Kasbah.
It starts at the April 9 Square (which, in this case, would work for "Rome", because all roads in the city lead to it) and ends here, at the intersection where the old Alcazar Cinema (which still retains its light) and the Columbus Cafe. The terrace of the latter is occupied, most of the time, by men drinking coffee and smoking (if it is in the morning) or men and tourists drinking tea if it is in the afternoon. This authentic aftertaste of sixties awning and methacrylate table, gives way to endless bazaars, hairdressers and date shops (one of the basic ingredients in Arab cuisine).
It is an order within the disorder that, as we advance along the increasingly steep slope, dissipates to splash a few places on one side and the other of the street that attract our attention. The smell of almonds (another raw material for Moroccan confectionery thanks to its national surplus) and toasted sugar is the first, and comes from the Patisserie Rouas , where you can taste the famous "gazelle horns" or chebakia, one of the most typical sweets in the area. We tried one of each and took them away in boxes.
With our appetites content for the time being, we indulge our curiosity in some of the craft workshops that follow one another on the left, from local ceramics (Moroccan tiles are also among the most coveted) to pieces of leather or wood. Everything, from the same place, is manufactured or fixed.
Our eyes are also amazed to see the amalgamation of objects that accumulate in some of the shops at the top of the street, which join those of merchants and children who, during the day, sell everything from traditional hats to handbags, but also some of the most unexpected goods.
In this variety we are surprised by the sobriety of Les Singulier, at number 49 Rue de la Kasbah. This understated atelier sells everything from hand-designed clothing and accessories (watch out for T-shirts and totes from Rock Du Tanger , which are creating a trend) to lamps, photographs, ceramic paintings and other contemporary Moroccan-made pieces.
When hunger strikes (they say that even the air in this city arouses the appetite), we carefully look for the entrance to the Cafe À L'Anglaise . Located at number 37, this small restaurant occupies the main room of a house and is run by a mother and daughter that delight the most exquisite palate.
They offer chicken tagine with lemon, grilled fish and the famous chicken or vegetable couscous, as well as other dishes such as vegetable quiche or Moroccan tapas, and they are so tasty that make stopping there more than once almost an obligation. In addition, its affordable prices -less than five euros a dish- make it a highly recommended option for home cooking in the city.
After a traditional mint tea (here, mojito size), you feel like resting. So we cross the door of the Kasbah and go down some small stairs where, as soon as we turn the corner, a Mozarabic-style wooden porch will welcome us to one of the best kept secrets in the city and also surely the best bed in the city. that you have ever slept in: ** La Maison Blanche **. There are nine unique rooms that exquisitely combine all the charm of tradition and the luxury of modernity together. Tangier starts here.
Tangerine sunsets are unique