Costs and Smith in the Plaza de la Villa
The news of the terrorist attack at the Brussels airport comes just as we are scheduled to tour Madrid. the american ambassador James Costs , with his blue eyes that seem to smile even when he doesn't, dressed in a V-neck sailor sweater and jeans, not disturbed by the constant telephone ringing . “Spain is an incredibly safe country. A good job is done with the state security forces”, he says, anticipating the question about this matter, on everyone's lips these days. “The people of Madrid have suffered their attacks –referring to 11M–, and have learned their lesson. They have a very keen sense of reality.”
As we leave the US embassy, Costos and her husband, Michael S. Smith, in the last year of a three-year stint, walk under the arches of the Plaza Mayor, marveling like children, and enter the Mercado de San Miguel** to sample paella from one of your favorite stalls. Later, they go to the artisanal cheese shop in the neighborhood of count Duke . With his schoolboy blond hair and orange corduroy suit, Smith, best known among interior designers for designing and decorating the Obama White House, seems to relish his role as enfant terrible—as opposed to Costos's superego, who apologises. his adoptive city with spontaneity–. "He's authentically foreign," says Smith, who goes from Los Angeles to Madrid for a week every month, "just like when he was a kid watching I Love You, Lucy Traveling to Europe."
Both, personal friends of the Obamas, take their position seriously. They use their political and social capital with the certain purpose that the world looks at Spain . Although he spends most of his time in Madrid, Costos, a second-generation Greek-American from Massachusetts and former marketing (entertainment and fashion) executive, travels to the United States every six weeks to woo American investors in the entertainment and technology sectors . He organized the IN3 business summit, which was attended by industry leaders such as Google's (now Alphabet's) Eric Schmidt and Cisco's Chuck Robbins for a meeting between young American and Spanish entrepreneurs. “ We created Silicon Valley in Madrid and gave access to American examples and capital ”, Says Costos, who managed to seat King Felipe VI next to Schmidt at the 2015 gala, at the new Google Madrid campus. "We show Spanish institutions how we inspire and help small businesses in the United States by investing with credit."
Roof of the Circle of Fine Arts
Costos' cultural events in Spain – film screenings, talks with American artists (photographer Catherine Opie was at the embassy that week) and LGBT events – They pursue the same thing as what he carried out when he supervised the positioning, licenses and communications of HBO and the Italian firm Tod's: promote a culture that does not attract the same international business and tourism as its neighbors. “The pull of Italian cinema in the post-war years contributed to that iconic concept of Under the Tuscan Sun (for Italy)”, Smith refers to the lack of awareness about Spanish exports compared to Italy. “ The quality of Spanish ceramics, wine and olive oil is equal and often better. It is more handmade ”.
“The Spaniards are authentic”, alleges Costos, aware of their 17 autonomies. “They don't think: 'We want the global customer'; rather it is: ‘We are doing what we want because we are the best at it. He refers to places like the emblematic lhardy , which has been serving chicken consommé from a silver dispenser since 1839. Its carved mahogany woodwork and gilt mirrors and ornate stained glass windows filled with ham-and-cheese sandwiches and pastries make it the place to be for Instagram sensationalism, but its owner discourage phone photos and thus social media. Or designer shops like Lagur either The 8 , in El Rastro, where Louis Vuitton trunks from the early 20th century and artichoke-style lamps by Poul Henningsen , mid-century, cost what they should. The real appeal of Madrid lies in this tug-of-war between the grandeur of the House of Habsburg – the Casa de Campo, Madrid's Central Park, is in full bloom, with its manicured tulips and trimmed magnolias – and the charm of old world – an antiquarian bookstore in a small street in Chueca, a shoe store that specializes in oxfords for 160 euros, or Frinsa The Cannery , which sells canned fish in beautiful wrappers.
Costos and Smith have played, during their diplomatic period, just like the Spaniards, to do what they know best: bring important people to the party . The couple, openly gay in a country that is 93% Catholic, have capitalized on the demand for invitations to their home, where they receive state and industry leaders such as Schmidt, John Kerry, Arianna Huffington, Gwyneth Paltrow or the Obamas . The embassy, remodeled by Smith, sports not only an elegant mix of European and American furniture, but also an outstanding collection of American art: they borrowed more than 80 pieces from the US Department of Art, such as Robert Rauschenberg's Bilbao Scraps , a Velázquez-style John Singer Sargent and Roy Lichtenstein's Mirror.
Head of a bull in La Torre del Oro (Plaza Mayor)
What both have understood –there still underlies that objection to the American culture typified in a Subway sandwich devoured on the run–, is that For the Spaniards, a ritual is an end in itself. . Madrid is like a chic aristocrat who closes part of the family estate to reduce heating costs, but always gets ready – and brings out the silver cutlery – for dinner. Y Madrilenians are famous for their cocktails . It's hard to beat a gin and tonic in a brandy glass at the tiny Ritz hotel bar or the elegant Cock in Chueca. But the most surprising thing is to have a drink with a cover in an apparently neglected bar, where the perfect cane costs one euro and the appetizer can be freshly cut slices of Iberian ham.
For these reasons, Madrid is what you expect from a European city. Or rather, the Europe before H&M, smartphones and Starbucks, equivalent to the strangeness that a North American lover of Coca Cola can feel before a glass of water from time. US tourism increased 15% during Costos' stay. But Madrid does not attract as many travelers as London, Paris or Rome . It is a city with few large hotel chains. “So he's out of the European tour. It is like virgin snow: is unexploded Smith adds.
Today, the “proud and stubborn” cultural resistance of the Spanish , according to Costos, is a blessing and a curse. This resistance established in Spain, both from the parties of the right and the left, is what accounts for the slow, but gradual, recovery of the economy in this year of political stagnation.
Back at the ambassador's residence, Smith displays a majestic black cape from Madrid Layers Seseña , with 115 years of history. "They are incredible. When I asked them: 'Can it be shorter and with less volume?' They said: 'No, no, we don't do that.' They don't make versions of Paris or Japan. They layer and knit.”
Sobrino de Botín, the oldest restaurant in the world
THESE ARE THE PLACES WHERE COSTOS AND SMITH TAKE THEIR GUESTS
SERIOUS CLASSICS
THE TRAINERA RESTAURANT
“This classic restaurant cares a lot about the quality of the fish,” Smith says of Madrid's most famous seafood restaurant, in the upscale Salamanca neighborhood. “ I love it because it is simple and comfortable ”.
BOOTY NEPHEW
A few steps from the Plaza Mayor, the oldest and most famous restaurant in the world –Hemingway was a fan– serves traditional Castilian dishes such as roast lamb either pig . But for Smith it is the "sober and almost austere beauty of the salons" that is most evocative of the Spanish style.
LA CARMENCITA TAVERN
This historic tavern, opened in Chueca in 1854 – think of a bar with a zinc bar and stools and tile mosaics – was recovered by restaurateur Carlos Zamora in 2013. The seasonal organic menu is one of Ambassador Costos' favourites: “ It is the perfect fusion between the charm of old Spain and the energy of the young and advanced Spaniards of today. ”.
Booty's Nephew
MODERN GASTRONOMY
COOKIE BAR
“ We never get tired of the design of this place Costos says of its polished wood beams and mirrors. "And the owner, Carlos Moreno Fontaneda - descendant of the family that created the cookies loved by generations of Spaniards, and who appear to bring innovation to the menu - is a great host."
BOSCO OF WOLVES
“I love the atmosphere, and they have the best pasta in Madrid ”, says Costos of this very stylish Italian in the landscaped courtyard of the College of Architects. "With the hectic activity in the room and the menu's emphasis on vegetables, it reminds me of Los Angeles," adds Smith.
PANIC
Javier Marca, pioneer of the Madrid artisan bakery revolution, is the person who runs this modern neighborhood bakery, opposite the Conde Duque cultural centre. Their wheat, rye and spelled breads are crunchy, deeply flavorful, and attract the most demanding customers from all over the city.
Vermouth at La Carmencita
TO DRINK
bar-cock
Popular with the cultural elite, it serves some of the best cocktails in Madrid – martinis and gimlets without the rustle. This wood-paneled bar in Chueca has a select and devoted clientele that has remained loyal since it opened in 1921. “With its old-world vibe, it's like Madrid's version of the Chateau Marmont Smith points out.
DRAY MARTINA
With a fresh, spontaneous atmosphere and uninterrupted service –a recent and welcome Madrid trend–, this informal lounge and restaurant in the elegant neighborhood of Las salesas it's a perfect gathering spot when Costos and Smith meet up with friends in town.
CIBELES TERRACE
"Every town hall should have a bar like this," jokes Costos about this terrace on the roof of Madrid's colossal Town Hall. Apart from perfect gin and tonics, it also offers “postcard views” of Madrid's most emblematic buildings.
Sculpture by Jacques Lipchitz at the Reina Sofía
MARKETS TO MISS
SAN ANTON MARKET
“The markets of Madrid have become modern. East, in Chueca, takes freshness to another level Smith says. Pick up a steak at the market and at the rooftop restaurant, La Cocina de San Antón, they cook it to your liking.
SAN MIGUEL MARKET
"We've brought Gwyneth Paltrow, Martha Stewart and anyone who loves food . We always drag them out,” Costos says of the art nouveau market near Plaza Mayor. Restored and opened in 2009, it has gone from selling food to serving oysters, cheese and other snack delicacies.
SUNDAYS AT THE TRAIL
“It is a commercial festival where the entrepreneurial spirit of the city boils”, says Costos about the Ribera de Curtidores market. On Sundays you can find everything here: rugs, caftans, antiques... "Trendsetters get excited about antique shops," says Smith. “Two of my favorites are Casa Josephine and Portici. I want to buy it all, because the finish is great”.
Carmina shoe store in Claudio Coello street
ESSENTIAL MUSEUMS
ART GALERIES
Costos and Smith are avid art collectors and regulars at many of Madrid's galleries. Among its frequent stops, the Marlborough Gallery , of consolidated Spanish, Latin American and international artists; Moisés Pérez de Albéniz, of avant-garde contemporary art; and Machado-Muñoz, for contemporary design and furniture.
SLAUGHTERHOUSE MADRID
“This site is an urban renewal success,” Costos says of the former slaughterhouse converted nine years ago into a cultural, art and theater center. “We take all the American artists, and are always fascinated by the vibrancy of this cultural oasis ”.
NATIONAL MUSEUM REINA SOFÍA ART CENTER
"The Reina offers an incredible three-dimensional history of modern and contemporary art," says Smith. "The most impressive thing is Picasso's Guernica as the centerpiece of it."
PRADO NATIONAL MUSEUM
“No visit to Spain would be complete without going to the Prado. Each painting has its story and together they create an incredibly inspiring place ”, declares Costos about the museum.
SOROLLA MUSEUM
According to Smith, "in Madrid there are small and evocative museums, such as the former home and studio of Joaquín Sorolla, sometimes called 'the Spanish Sargent' for his incredible brushwork." (Until March they exhibit the temporary Sorolla in Paris).
ROYAL PALACE
"The dramatic exterior staircase is impressive," says Smith. “And inside, it offers texture and detail: rooms, porcelain, instruments, weapons and Spanish art–”.
THYSSEN-BORNEMISZA MUSEUM
“They organize vital and attractive exhibitions, and their work is diverse,” says Smith of the private collection of paintings acquired by Spain in 1993. “It is one of the few Spanish museums where you can see American painting – Winslow Homer or Jackson Pollock – regularly,” adds Costos.
HUNTING TREASURE
AUCTION HOUSES
“I love making the rounds at Auctions Segre, Ansorena, Alcalá, Goya and Abalarte,” says Smith, who rocks Spanish tile, hand-hammered silver and Jansen-inspired furniture from the 1950s and 1960s.
BAKELITE
Smith thinks this gallery-shop “is carefully curated and its forte is the elegant modernist furniture. Virtually every piece has an interesting line and a gorgeous patina ”.
CARMINA SHOE SHOP
"They make downright elegant men's shoes in the family-owned factory in Mallorca," Costos alleges. "It is a fine example of craftsmanship and the quality for which Spanish leather goods companies are known in the world”.
LORENZO CASTLE
“Lorenzo is a dear friend and gifted decorator, known for his bold, colorful and spectacular furniture and antiques,” says Smith. "He buys things from her all the time."
TESLA ANTIQUES
This treasure trove of vintage designs in the heart of the historic Las Letras neighborhood "isn't huge, so the pieces are very well chosen," notes Smith. "And they always have great design finds."
One of the rooms of the Sorolla Museum
WALKS THAT ARE WORTH IT
THE MADRID OF THE AUSTRIAS
“We love to walk around The Latin and the surroundings of Royal Palace , where you can really feel Madrid's distinction as a century-old capital,” says Smith, noting that the area is full of cafes and tapas bars, as well as international restaurants. "In this neighborhood many young people live in old buildings." Costos says that the tours usually end in Madrid Río. "It was a successful project." Leaders from cities like Los Angeles have come to study it.
GOOD RETIREMENT PARK
With over 250 acres of tree-lined trails, sidewalk cafes, a rowboat lake, and several art spaces, the city's grandest park offers a bucolic escape. “ I run in the Retreat Costs says. "The perimeter around the park is five perfect kilometers."
TEMPLE OF DEBOD
“ At sunset it is such a romantic and eccentric place Smith says of this 2nd century BC Egyptian temple. C., located in the Parque del Oeste, with its spectacular views of the Sierra de Guadarrama . The temple was a gift from Egypt to Spain.
WHERE TO SLEEP
** RITZ HOTEL, MADRID **
Smith loves "the sumptuous look and cozy feel" of this magnificent hotel, built at the request of King Alfonso XIII in 1910 , and one of the best in Madrid. Costos organizes embassy events at the Velázquez bar. The service is always “impeccable”.
ONLY YOU BOUTIQUE HOTEL
Since its opening in the heart of the trendy Chueca neighborhood in 2012, this boutique hotel – with striking design details such as a wall completely covered in white suitcases and trunks, the work of the famous decorator Lázaro Rosa-Violán – has attracted many Madrilenians for its comfortable reception, lounge and bar.
* Pilar Guzmán has been the director of the US edition of Condé Nast Traveler since 2013.
_* This article is published in the January 102 issue of the Condé Nast Traveler magazine. This number is available in its digital version _ and in its printed version.
Tulips in the Royal Botanical Garden of Madrid