Views of the city from the Suleiman Mosque
"If the world were one state, Istanbul would be its capital." No matter how many explanations one reads about the meaning of this phrase of Napoleon, there is only one way to fully understand it: contemplate it, get lost in its immensity and feel the vertigo of being in the middle of a whirlwind of years of history mixed with restless minds whose greatest desire is to continue writing more and more pages.
Minds of all colors, with millions of ideas, that in any other part of the world would probably collide and destroy each other. But not here, not in what was the capital of three empires, not in the city where Europe and Asia shake hands.
In Istanbul diversity is extolled and mosques, churches and synagogues rise a few meters on the same street. People eat at street stalls and dine on rooftops overlooking the Bosphorus, listen to the strains of baglamas in tea houses and dance electronica in nightclubs. And in the streets it smells of spices, chestnuts and corn, but the last sensation that remains in the body when stepping on the city is the desire to grow more and more.
We arrived in the Turkish city leaving the sunset behind, crossing a red sky that gradually faded until the darkness of the night flooded everything. Through the window of the plane you could see a painting split in half: the sea off and Istanbul on. Ready or not, the lesson in the capital of the world had begun, and we couldn't miss a thing.
Views of the city from the Suleiman Mosque
DAY 1. BEYOGLU: TURKISH REMIX
We start our tour in the emblematic Taksim Square and walk along the main artery of the Beyoglu district, Istiklal Avenue. , or the street that never sleeps. We dove in and out of the crowds and street stalls of simits (a typical bread with seeds), chestnuts and ears of corn.
Suddenly, the colors of a shop window catch our attention and our guide smiles as he opens the door of Hacı Bekir, a sweet shop that dates back to 1777 no less. First place we entered, first place where we discovered the famous Turkish friendliness that everyone talks about when visiting the country (it was like that from the first to the last day).
The clerk offers us a plate with delicacies known as lokum , soft candies similar to jelly beans with bits of dried fruit and all imaginable flavours: pistachio, mint, lemon and even with hints of pink. We then enter the Avrupa Pasaji, where tons of old books and magazines are piled on the shelves, tables and chairs of the stores, and the feeling is that of traveling to the past.
One of the most distinguished inhabitants of Istanbul looks at us with a face of "this is my territory"
We got out of that time warp and headed for the street Çukur Cuma, in the Galatasaray neighbourhood, where antique dealers coexist with design and lighting shops. The sun goes down in the Karaköy neighborhood, the café terraces begin to fill up, a cat crosses quickly and slips through the hole in a wall with Frida Kahlo graffiti.
The cats, together with the fishermen who occupy the bridges that cross the Golden Horn and the cormorants who dive to take their catch of the day, are the undisputed owners of the city. They have seen it change its name and government, but deep down they know that it will always be theirs.
We go up to the roof of the Adahan hotel and Istanbul, which has not stopped surprising us since we arrived, treats us, for the second consecutive day, to a movie sunset. The sky gradually turns red, giving way to pink and violet until it hides on the horizon behind the dome of Santa Sofía. And only then do we stop holding our breath.
Detail of postcards in an antique shop on Çukur Cuma street
DAY 2. BALAT: THE NEW PLACE-TO-BE
After crossing the Golden Horn and visiting the Suleymaniye Mosque we headed towards it Balat neighborhood. The frenetic city that we have just passed through turns into a quiet little village of colorful houses as soon as we set foot on the vodina street.
Metin, the owner of the Coffee Department, explains to us that when he found this place three years ago, the cafés that we now see in the surrounding basement, with wooden chairs and tables, homemade cakes and thoughtful decoration, were not there. .
They have been joined by vintage clothing stores, antique dealers and auction houses. Everyone talks about Balat and everyone wants to live in Balat, and many even want to work in Balat, because there are also coworking sites, like Olmadik Projeler.
The afternoon plan is one of those things that they say you have to do once in your life: navigate the Bosphorus. On one side, the Asian part of the city, on the other, the European and, in the middle, nothing –or everything–.
Color floods every corner of the Turkish capital turning the streets into cozy corridors as if it were an outdoor home
DAY 3. SULTANAHMET: LIVING HISTORY
It's time to get up early, and in Sultanahmet many treasures await us ready to be discovered. In the Hippodrome square, the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia can be seen impassively, one in front of the other, but we don't know where to look, and we've barely finished our first coffee of the day. The history of the city, and of humanity, unfolds with each step we take inside the Hagia Sophia.
And looking up, everything fits. The mixture of cultures that we have been seeing in the streets these days is reaching its zenith. Two medallions with Arabic calligraphy pray Allah and Muhammad and flank an image of Jesus Christ in the arms of the Virgin Mary.
Hagia Sophia, an architectural gem where East and West meet
A hundred meters from the basilica we find the Tank , a warehouse built during the reign of Justinian that once again plays on the contrast that dominates the city: the peace and darkness down there versus the bustle and light outside.
We join the game heading for the grand bazaar and, without thinking twice, we enter this labyrinth of streets where, as we go, each corner is more familiar than the previous one. Dishes, lamps, jewelry, silks, rugs... When we finally found our way out, we decided to visit the Spice Bazaar to round off the day.
One of the stalls in the Grand Bazaar
DAY 4. BEBEK AND NIŞANTAŞI: MODERN LIFE
We drive along the shore of the Bosphorus to the neighborhood of baby , one of the most modern in the city, where the plan is to visit its many jewelry stores (such as Kismet by Milka ), sweets (such as Hersey Asktan ) or clothing (such as Cashmere in Love or Midnight Express ). At night, restaurants and cafes become the places where Istanbulites love to see and be seen.
Back in the car, we continue in the direction of another of the most chic neighborhoods, Nisantasi , full of luxury boutiques of local and international firms. The Garden of Must, one of the most popular restaurants in the area, is perfect for recharging your batteries. Known and unknown faces from the world of fashion, art and entertainment congregate there.
Nothing more Turkish to end the trip than a bath in a hammam and dinner at the Safran restaurant , located on the top floor of the InterContinental hotel , where the capital of the world, infinite, cosmopolitan and vibrant, once again honors its kindness and gives us the last sunset over its fascinating and mysterious infinity.
The highest floor of the InterContinental hotel, one of the best panoramic views of Istanbul
HOW TO GET
** Turkey Airlines **
It has direct flights all year round from Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao, Malaga and Valencia.
**Turkey Tourism**
Everything you need to know about the country before boarding.
WHERE TO SLEEP
** InterContinental Istanbul ;** from €100
A stone's throw from Taksim Square, this hotel becomes the perfect operations center to get to know the Turkish city in depth. On its top floor is City Lights Restaurant & Bar, with one of the best views of Istanbul.
** Soho House ;** from €180
The most ambitious project of the London group to date is located in the 19th century Palazzo Corpi and has a luxurious spa, a gym with a boxing ring, a barbershop, a nightclub and even a cinema.
** Çırağan Palace Kempinski ;** from €200
An Ottoman imperial palace where you can experience the sensation of floating in the middle of the Bosphorus. It is essential to try the exquisite cuisine of its elegant restaurants Laledan and Tugra.
** Fairmont Quasar Istanbul ;** from €150
Culture and glamor mingle at this brand new five-star restaurant, and the menu at its restaurant, Aila, is a tasty journey through Turkey's culinary history.
One of the corners of the Passage of the Books
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
** 360 Istanbul Beyoğlu **
In addition to the impressive panoramic view of Istanbul, its creative cuisine with nods to local recipes and a club where the party goes on until dawn complete the offer.
Nevizade Street
Running parallel to bustling İstiklal Avenue, Nevizade is a street lined with meyhanes (Turkish taverns) that comes alive every day at sunset. Don't leave without trying the meze (tapas) and the traditional anise-based drink, rakı.
Hazzopulo Pasaji
Unknown to most tourists and very popular with Istanbulites to drink tea, smoke sisha or play backgammon. Once through the narrow corridor full of jewelry and souvenir shops, we find this charming secret garden.
** Cicek Pasaji **
A 19th-century art nouveau building houses this lively gallery named Pasaje de las Flores for the many shops that once populated it, now replaced by elegant bars and restaurants.
Balik Pazari
The Pasaje de las Flores leads to the Fish Market (Balik Pazari) where we find, in addition to picturesque places to taste freshly caught fish, spice shops, preserves, sweets and souvenirs.
**Meze by Lemon Tree**
Opposite the historic Pera Palace hotel is this place, perfect to enjoy a tasting of the typical Turkish tapas.
**Datli Maya**
Under the motto 'slow food served fast', traditional Anatolian recipes are prepared in the wood-fired oven of this place, using mostly organic and fair trade ingredients. It is worth stopping to have one of their vegetarian dishes or savor their delicious Turkish pizzas.
** Karabatak **
This place takes its name from a bird, the karabatak (cormorant), which flies and dives along the Bosphorus in search of fish. It is an abandoned metal workshop converted into the first café that opened in the Karaköy neighborhood, where Today the Istanbul 'movida' is concentrated.
The impressive view of 360 Istanbul
WHERE TO BUY
Jennifer's Hamam
The towels, bedspreads and tablecloths that we find in Jennifer's showroom and in her two Arasta Bazar stores are made by Turkish artisans on old looms and with natural materials.
**Tulu Textiles**
Elizabeth Hewitt's showroom is home to a wonderland where you can lose yourself among colored rugs and a multitude of decorative elements.
** Sevan Bıçakçi **
This jeweler makes authentic works of art with his hands that have even been exhibited in museums and galleries. His rings, in which he reproduces places like Hagia Sophia, are world famous.
**Cashmere in Love**
Esra Bezek's creations are made using the finest Mongolian cashmere yarns combined with wool, cotton and exquisite silks.
** Luna Park **
Cosmetics, bags, home decoration, clothing, books and some food products such as honey and oil occupy the shelves of this store located in the heart of Galata, where we find the creations of more than 200 Turkish designers.
** fei **
When Fatoş Yalın decided to open this boutique, he conceived it as a large wardrobe in which his own creations and vintage pieces coexist. Leather bags, silk and cotton shirts, books, ceramics and numerous decorative objects.
**Ark of Crafts**
This space, on the top floor of the Adahan hotel, is designed to support local artisans. A small and cozy room where you can have tea and buy unique pieces. Barrier Studio barrier.com In Koray Kırca's workshop we find the most transgressive lighting items where past and future merge.
** Çicek leri **
Books and tree bark converted into clocks, soaps, lamps, photo frames and innumerable decorative pieces made with natural materials.
** 3rd Culture **
Zeynep Lale and Emre are two brothers who founded their own brand to celebrate the diversity of world cultures. Unique furniture, photographs, accessories and gifts under the slogan 'Inspired by the World, Created in Istanbul'.
TO DO
Travel Delights
If you want to enjoy Istanbul like a local, contact Iskender and Lola, a Turkish man and a Spanish woman who will make your trip unforgettable.
Bosphorus Cruise
A ship sailing the waters that separate the European from the Asian continent will make you feel the magic of this place where East and West go hand in hand. Companies like Den Den Yachts offer private tours in which to discover the wonders of this crossroads.
Turkish bath
Enjoying an authentic Turkish hammam –scattered throughout the streets of the city– is a gift for body and mind that will completely renew you. One of the most popular is Aga Hamami, in Taksim.
THE FAVORITES OF SEDA DOMANIÇ, DIRECTOR OF VOGUE TURKEY
What makes Istanbul so special?
A unique history and a rare mix of cultures. This constant movement gives the city its dynamic and vibrant soul.
What do you think about the cultural landscape? The art scene has prospered a lot in the last ten years: new private museums have been established, the Istanbul Biennale has become an acclaimed event and, most importantly, local artists such as Taner Ceylan, Cevdet Erek and Halil Altındere, They have gained international prominence.
What are your favorite restaurants?
Karaköy Lokantasi and Mikla, both in the Beyoglu area, top my list.
Any young fashion designers you've discovered?
Misela and Mehry Mu for accessories and House of DIV or Klotho for jewelry.
***** This report was published in **number 113 of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (January)**. Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website) and enjoy free access to the digital version of Condé Nast Traveler for iPad. The October issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device.
Seda Domaniç, director of Vogue Turkey