The COW: Passion for meat
Revelation chef at Madrid Fusión in 2016, Bib Gourmand by the Michelin Guide in 2017, Javier Estevez , with a 15-year history, revolutionized Madrid's gastronomic scene in 2014 with his first restaurant, La Tasquería. In it he gave one and ten turns to his fetish food and until then something reviled, the offal, and turned it into a trend.
As he says , it made perfect sense that the LAVACA group specialized in meats called him when they decided to give his menu a second look. They first called him in early 2016 to update his bar menu, he tells us over the phone. "We create a small letter with about ten informal dishes , to share, to eat with your hands”, he recalls.
Delicious Cecina at La VACA
Shortly after, they contacted him again to "make a comprehensive change in the main card", a change that has taken them six months and will be available from next April 1 in the six restaurants in Madrid of the group.
"The main axis is still meat," he says. Javier Estevez , but when examining the previous letter he realized that the dishes of La VACA before withdrawing the surname "Argentina" coexisted with new dishes without any connection.
“The first thing we did was reduce the number of dishes, from more than 40 we have gone down to about 30, and some of the classics remain, such as empanadas, provoleta, oxtail croquettes, grilled chorizo or the Argentine steak”, he explains.
Javier Estevez
And among the new ones, “there are more meat products that are not only grilled”, “like the gizzard with a soy, lime and garlic dressing ”, he tells. “Or traditional style roast beef.”
And, although this is not La Tasquería, far from it, he also had to leave his mark and “if the common thread is meat, it makes sense for some offal to appear. That is why they have risked a bit in dishes like the Sweet veal , which we do not say what it is, but it is very cooked language, made in Josper, with a tuna and anchovy mayonnaise as if it were a Vitello tonnato ; also the leg and nose stew as if they were tripe, which is also a recipe”. Or the steak tartare, a very fashionable dish today to which Estévez adds here marrow.
What they have not opted for is the other current carnivorous trend: the overripe . Although the most mature piece of the new card they hope will become their “icon”: the 35-day chop with side dishes.
In any case, they do not forget that La VACA is a restaurant for all audiences and there are also new dishes 100% vegetarian or vegan . Like the chickpea salad or the shrimp salad.
surprising marrow
WHY GO?
Because you like meat, you love meat, you dream of meat . And because if you don't like it so much you will also find something for yourself.
ADDITIONAL FEATURES:
Those up-to-date starters: like artichoke confit on foie cream, or yaya's ratatouille on egg, or quinoa and kale salad.
IN DATA:
The Castilian COW (Paseo de la Castellana, 214)
The AZCA COW (Paseo de la Castellana, 87)
The COW Arturo Soria (Torrecilla del Puerto, 5)
The COW Las Rozas (Road to La Coruña, km 18.3)
The COW López de Hoyos (López de Hoyos, 42)
The COW Rosales (Paseo del Pintor Rosales, 52).
Half price: menus from 12.90.
Web:
Black Angus loin (are you drooling already?)