On the banks of the Sava
Breakfast
To start the day, a strong dose of little luxuries and good food. The ** Moscow hotel ** is one of the most emblematic buildings in Belgrade for being the heart of the Yugoslav cultural scene since World War II . This monumental space, of tsarist inspiration (hence its name) had previously been used as Gestapo headquarters and as the headquarters of the Central Bank.
For 70 years it has been the most exclusive hotel in the city and, in addition to continuing to encourage cultural gatherings, its cafeteria offers a small delicacy. the snitch cake It was created in 1974 by the hands of confectioner Ana and her recipe crossed borders thanks to the fame created by the hotel's international guests. This puff pastry, fruit and cream tart is the best energy shot s to start a day surrounded by vintage luxury in the center of the city.
mid-morning coffee
Everything you want to find is in the street Knez Mihailova . And for this you don't have to cross any door but to drop through the numerous terraces that take over this pedestrian artery. Come cold, rain or snow, its seats are always full of diners who stop to warm up with a tea, warm up with a coffee, cool down with a pivo (beer) or get tipsy with a shot of Rakija. These establishments are prepared for whatever the body asks for and are a great resource for travelers with anarchic hours.
Appetizer
'?' It's not a question, it's an answer . It is the solution for those looking for the oldest tavern in the area. And it is that so much upheaval, so many political and religious fluctuations and so many internal conflicts caused their owners, fed up with changing the name of their old bar so as not to offend according to what sensitivities, They decided to call it in this curious way. But far from being a showcase of antiques or a museum of kitsch fetishes for foreigners, **this bar is what a kafana (tavern in Serbian) is supposed to be**. At its low wooden tables, any patron who is looking for conversation, beer and traditional cuisine is welcome where the ćevapčići , all kinds of meat rolls accompanied by vegetables, are the main stars of the menu.
Baklavas, the Balkan star dessert
Food
At the confluence of the Great Danube with the Sava River, the waters form a haven of peace that the inhabitants of Belgrade have taken advantage of to be able to navigate with ease. There was born the custom of eating the catch of the day on the boats and from this tradition the numerous restaurants that rest moored to both shores. Some of the best known are Dijalog, Porto or Leonardo where the most helpful is to resort to dishes such as kebaps or musakas , legacy of an Ottoman past. Do not be alarmed if at any moment a small balkan timbre orchestra . This Serbian version of the prickly pear, surprisingly, is often liked by Belgraders, who start singing at the least suspected moment.
Dessert
Not succumbing to the sweet tooth temptation is a crime in this city. And more considering that it is paradise for those with a sweet tooth with a star dessert: baklava . In the Dukat pastry shop you can enjoy all kinds of pastries of Arab origin, with pistachio being the omnipresent ingredient that is accompanied by all kinds of flavors. You don't have to be a sugar lover to be convinced r, the advantage of their small size makes them an irresistible morsel. Calories shouldn't be a concern after such an intense morning and, just in case, Arabic tea (also sold in this store) is always a good ally to aid digestion. If that is not enough, there is always the option of taking a walk in the nearby and monumental Kalemegdan park.
Afternoon snack
Serbia's cultural renaissance is taking place in the university quarter and around the most important centers of contemporary art and music. **This is the case of the Yugoslav dramatic theater**, a modern building that has infected the surrounding streets and soaked them in new trends. on these tracks cafes created for inspiration and knowledge sharing proliferate . The Njegoseva street It is sprinkled with terraces with small book stalls that invite you to read. If the capricious weather is not on your side, the Akademia 28 club deserves a visit as it is a 3 in 1: delicate cafeteria, library and cinema.
Dinner
You don't have to arrive at the Reka Restaurant first or last. If you are the first you run the risk of showing up before the music starts. If you arrive later than 9:30 p.m. and You may want to start directly with the desserts and Rakia shots . And it is that this picturesque corner has earned a name in the city night thanks to its dishes **(more and more meat)**, the good wine from the south of the country and... turbofolk . The custom of animating all meals with music rises to the nth degree in this place. From the first bite, a lively orchestra (of no more than 4-5 musicians) performs national and international themes and sets the tone for the dinner.
The music gets livelier little by little as the evening progresses until dessert. That's when the beat builds and Western harmonies twist into exotic Slavic scales. It's time for turbofolk, the country's quintessential genre . To the bases of popular songs is added the powerful electronic component that makes all the visitors get up from their seats and, buoyed up by alcohol and by the frantic exultation of friendship, start dancing. The party usually ends with impossible choreographies on the table and regional songs on the banks of the Danube.
Jazz at the Iguana: perfect to end the night
first cup
Belgrade is not just Balkan folklore boiling from every pore. The West has entered with full force in its cocktail bars, clearly influenced by the New York and Berlin environment . This is the case of the ** Supermarket **, an ideal place to greet the night or say goodbye to the day since it not only offers cosmopolitan cocktails, but also sophisticated international food and a store of everyday designer objects. **The music is usually electronic (of the good kind) ** from European DJs, which makes this place a benchmark for the future, although its excessive resemblance to Anglo-Saxon environments can cause a feeling of estrangement in the visitor.
lengthen the night
The old port on the banks of the Sava River was rendered obsolete by the construction of its industrial namesake on the Danube. Since then, the old hangars have been filled with gambling dens with different atmospheres s that prick and/or offer music until dawn. the disco Magazine or the Iguana jazzclub restaurant are just two examples of how the demand for quality and leisure rises in an overwhelming city who knows how to enjoy life, routine liturgies and gastronomy 24 hours a day.