Buenos Aires neighborhood by neighborhood
Buenos Aires is an authentic, elegant city but it's also hipster, bohemian, transgressive , and perhaps the most intrinsic charm rests on its heterogeneity . In that genuinely devastating heterogeneity, one that without planning it has been enriched by various cultures and artistic aspects that have achieved nothing more than to embellish each one of its splendid nooks and crannies.
gloriously beautiful and energetic , the city boasts a vibrant atmosphere, with neighborhoods that contrast sharply with each other and that over time have reaffirmed their style and stimulated a creative atmosphere with a unique identity.
Is now time to explore the particular insignia that each of them has to offer.
SAN TELMO
Formerly known as Alto de San Pedro , this neighborhood dates back to the 17th and 18th centuries, a moment in which an expansion of the population in the area would take place, although the situation would deteriorate considerably due to the epidemic of yellow fever of 1871 , and many of the more affluent residents would choose to settle in the north or west of the city.
The San Telmo Antiques Fair
But currently San Telmo houses the historic center of Buenos Aires , with picturesque cobbled streets that unfold between markets, old buildings, breweries and an undoubtedly bohemian atmosphere that becomes charming.
Among the essentials is the San Telmo Antiques Fair , -or Flea Market-, which extends along Defense Street and some nearby passages on Sundays. In it abound vintage objects: handicrafts, paintings, photographs , and you can even buy souvenirs, sweets or food. Worth walk it from Plaza Dorrego to Plaza de Mayo to soak up its atmosphere, and thus merge with the idiosyncrasy of the neighborhood.
The vestiges of the 1800s remain latent in places like The Minimal House , the facade narrowest in town , and that at that time used to belong to slaves who lived with their masters. which is located in Saint Lawrence 380 It is the only one still standing.
French's Solar Gallery , on the other hand, is a shopping trip offering jewelry, antiques and handicrafts in a highly colorful setting. And for art lovers, the Museum of Modern Art It is an irresistible attraction in the area, due to its collection of 7,000 Argentine and international works.
Museum of Modern Art in San Telmo
Other monuments that enhance the area and take us back to the past are the Parish of San Pedro González Telmo , the Danish Church and Russian Orthodox Holy Trinity , one of the oldest in the city.
A hidden corner? El Zanjon , considered the first settlement of Buenos Aires in 1536, and the most important archaeological recovery Until now. They hide in it tunnels, walls and stories that are narrated in a fascinating way in the guided tours.
Where to eat? iron grill , in the San Telmo Market , is one of the recent openings, and delicious by the way, with the real Argentine steak, iron provolone and pleasant meat empanadas.
adored bar It is the perfect informal place to taste something on the go and Aldo's Restoran Vinoteca It has an excellent wine list and first class food.
The breweries most prominent are Cervelar, Antares, The Red Gate and Beerlife. One thing is for sure, none of them disappoint.
MOUTH
Without a doubt, La Boca is one of the emblematic neighborhoods of the city of Buenos Aires . With an effervescent appearance that is due, in large part, to the thousands of Italian immigrants who arrived in these lands from 1870 , and that by force of lungs they built their homes and painted them with surpluses from the workshops.
Because of this, their facades are extremely colorful . A sunflower yellow is interspersed with shades of blue, turquoise, green and pink, resulting in a captivating atmosphere. This distinctive** tradition lent life and optimism to the neighborhood**, something that through the years the residents strive to preserve.
The ecstasy of the area occurs, how could it be otherwise, in the mythical Caminito street and it is almost inadmissible to leave the city without transiting between the restaurants and old conventillos that surround it . Here, it is recommended to taste a traditional Argentine pizza in the popular Banchero Pizzeria.
The mythical Caminito street in La Boca
But La Boca are not just facades. also converge shows, exhibitions and exhibitions of plastic arts in an iconic place: The Art Factory . A Florentine-style multidisciplinary cultural center, built by the Italian architect Juan Chiogna in 1916 and artistically recovered in the last decade.
The Bombonera , the Boca Juniors stadium, is the destination where the soccer fans . Its surroundings can be visited, as well as its interactive museum.
Although this neighborhood is one of the most visited in Buenos Aires, it is advisable walk around the downtown area and do not stray from the tourist circuit.
MADERO PORT
And after an instant, Buenos Aires becomes a sophisticated oasis of serenity and calm , especially when crossing the channel, through the majestic and iconic Woman's bridge , erected in 2001 by the famous Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.
The Women's Bridge in Puerto Madero
When walking the streets of Madero Port a strange sensation of walking through a completely dissimilar Buenos Aires seems to invade us, but no, Buenos Aires also combines opulent and elegant buildings that stretch across the levees.
In this area you have to visit The Fountain of the Nereids , the work of Lola Mora and one of the most graceful in the city. And what about the Art Collection Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat , with more than 150 works by international artists such as Dalí, Blanes, Warhol, Turner and Rodin; or the Faena Art Center , distinguished by its experimental and dynamic proposal.
An alternative plan? The Ecological Reserve , the largest green space in the metropolis, with 350 hectares and spaces for hiking , ride a bike or rediscover the city from the viewpoints.
An alternative plan: The Ecological Reserve
And of course, there is a wide range of restaurants with privileged views and Italian-Argentine menus, among which stand out Puerto Cristal, Cabaña Las Lilas, Marcelo Italian Cuisine and La Parolaccia Trattoria.
But if you prefer something more casual, your place will be Negroni Puerto Madero , cocktails and sushi are the specialty of this bar.
ST NICOLAS
Now we plunge into the heart of Buenos Aires, in one of the first neighborhoods of the city and in those streets that are uninhabited on weekends, but that from Monday to Friday become vigorous and dynamic.
One of the Saint Nicholas safety pins , or as it is often called, Microcentro, is the wonderful Colon Theater, considered one of the most transcendental in the entire world due to its acoustics, and on many occasions, compared to the Opera Garnier in Paris and the Royal Opera House in London.
The interior of the majestic Teatro Colón
Artists such as Igor Stravinsky, Herbert von Karajan, Luciano Pavarotti , Rudolf Nureyev and Julio Bocca. Although it would be best to get tickets to attend a show, Guided visits allow you to dive into their dream facilities.
One of the most beautiful galleries in the city, Pacific Galleries , was erected in 1889, and although it had different purposes, for less than three decades it has been functioning as one of the major shopping malls from the city. It has a dome decorated by local painters and in it are the most distinguished Argentine design brands.
Where to eat? Yard #378 is the signature cuisine of Novotel Buenos Aires, located in a warm atmosphere and directed by chef Mauro Campos, it offers meat, fish and pasta options, with vegetables from organic production.
And because Buenos Aires is a city that deserves to be seen from above, Trade Sky Bar is the latest hot spot from where you will succumb to the porteño sunsets.
has some almost 360° views on the 22nd floor, bringing together the best of Puerto Madero, the Puente de La Mujer and even the height of Calle Corrientes with the obelisk. special attention to Güemes Gallery and Barolo Palace , they also have very nice skyscrapers.
And in the next neighborhood, Montserrat , are the classics of Buenos Aires: the Congress, the Manzana de las Luces Historical-Cultural Complex , offers a journey through Argentine history, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Buenos Aires, the Cabildo, Plaza de Mayo and the Pink House.
RECOLETA
That phrase that reliably expresses: “Buenos Aires is the Paris of South America” emerges from the ornamentation, facades and opulent architectural designs of the Recoleta neighborhood.
A district that makes us succumb to its grace and splendor, falling in love with sculptures like the Floralis Generica , and spaces that seek to encourage art and culture, as is the case of the Recoleta Cultural Center , with amphitheaters, microcinemas and exhibition halls.
The Floralis Generica in Recoleta
To admire one of the largest art collections in Latin America, you have to enter the National museum of fine arts , or get lost in one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world: The Grand Splendid Athenaeum.
A classic? Recoleta Cemetery , and although those who have not visited it may be a little reluctant, when they see it they will want to explore its interior. In addition to the surroundings, made up of the picturesque Our Lady of the Pillar Basilica dating from 1732 and the Recoleta Mall.
An authentic palace built by J. L. Ruiz Basadre as an ice skating rink, Palais de Glace , reached glory in the 1920s, is now used as a venue to exhibit local art.
The Pink Bread Bin It is a perfect place for brunch, snack or even dinner since it has irresistible pancakes and chocolate cakes, as well as savory options, with some imposing views towards the Basilica , the cemetery and the surroundings of the epicenter of Recoleta.
Our Lady of the Pillar Basilica
An unknown corner? Greenhouse , the first Gin Tonic bar in the country, located at the foot of the National Library and in an environment that invites you to disconnect with nature.
PALERMO
And although a single Palermo would be enough, we can run into Palermo Soho, Hollywood, Old or Small . It is that Palermo is a neighborhood with a unique imprint, one that reached its splendor more than a decade ago, with a notorious fashionista boom that included independent designer fairs, majestic fashion boutiques and to top it off, a gastronomic offer that does not leave any kitchen thrown at random.
One of the essentials is Japanese garden , built in 1967 and filled with bonsai, azaleas, kokedamas and orchids. In it live a Cultural center, a japanese cuisine restaurant and a nursery where plants can be purchased. And of course the Botanical Garden Charles Thays.
People come to Palermo Soho to drink, eat and shop
But here we have to focus on Soho. To Palermo Soho you come to buy, drink, eat and especially to enjoy a leisurely life, where the streets of Buenos Aires seem to take on another meaning, with a chic aesthetic and even more cosmopolitan.
The Santa Ana Passage is ideal for taking pictures, with its graffiti and artistic interventions , which coincidentally can be found on the walls of many stores, such as Jackie Smith's, next to him.
To eat? Siamo Nel Forno is a brand new pizzeria that worships Neapolitan specialties. Fifi Warehouse offers brunch and healthy snacks, while Nina Bakery It has an exquisite selection of sweet and savory dishes.
Although the new bet of Palermo Soho is a Parisian boulangerie Gontran Cherrier , in front of Plaza Armenia, with exquisite baguettes, fresh salads and a pastry that immerses us in Paris with its flavors.
The hidden gems here are the speakeasy bars and one of the most notorious is Uptown BA , from the creators of the famed Speakeasy Harrison e inspired by the new york subway.
Its access is through a typical New York station, wagon included, where the instagramer moment will be latent, and then, high ceilings that make up a chic and hipster space , with a bar creative cocktails of first level and gastronomy that alludes to the Big Apple.
Another prominent bar is Vico Wine Bar , Located in Palermo Hollywood since 2017, and with two more stores in Villa Crespo and Lanús, it proposes a serve yourself system with an offer of 140 national and international labels . Seasonal cuisine, a non-traditional cheese and meat bar are the jewels of this place.
More highlights? J.W. Bradley, The Hole Bar, La Malbequería , Apothecary and Festival Bar.
BELGRANO
In this area you must visit the Chinatown , established in 1980 by the wave of immigrants, mainly Taiwanese. Although it is somewhat small, it has the Chong Kuan Temple , an arch, shops and supermarkets with typical oriental products. Chinese New Year is celebrated here in a big way.
The arch of Chinatown in Belgrano
They can also visit the Immaculate Conception Parish, inaugurated in 1878, or the Sarmiento Historical Museum , dedicated to the memory of Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, president, writer and educator of Argentina.
Where to eat? Narda's Dining Room , from the renowned Argentine chef Narda Lepes, offers dishes with a selection of vegetables and raw materials from small producers. It's not cheap, but it has healthy options and an unmissable vintage style.
And although it is not specifically located in the neighborhood of Belgrano, but in Nuñez, the Monumental stadium, of the River Plate team , is the most impressive, from my point of view, of course, since around Argentine soccer there is an indescribable passion, which does not allow me to be impartial.
VILLA CRESPO-CABALLITO-CHACARITA
The neighborhoods mentioned have always had a leading role, but Villa Crespo, Cabalito and Chacarita they have long remained in the shadows, though no longer. Now they seem to be new gastronomic poles of the city, which are undoubtedly worth exploring.
Villa Crespo offers pizzerias for all tastes and styles, 1893, Angelín or El Trebol, although I Latin It is a seven-step restaurant that fascinates foreigners because of the journey it proposes through the latin american flavors.
Featured bar? 878 offers an excellent setting, with delicious cocktails and a burger with brie cheese, mushrooms and irresistible peppers.
in little horse, The Yard of the Milkmen It is a fabulous open-air market with different gastronomic and entertainment proposals, while in Chacarita it stands out Vermouth The Force , the winegrower's vermouth Sebastian Zuccardi , made from malbec and torrontés, and the Churreria Olleros , one of the most archaic in the city.
It's worth getting lost in the explosion of color in La Boca succumb to the imposing Recoleta , know the stories hidden by the historic center of San Telmo or explore the new corners of a city that is constantly striving to create the **best version** of itself.