He already had us conquered by its Arab roots and its Roman past , for his mountain soul full of exploits of bandits and stories of English romantics who, like us today, fell at his feet. Nevertheless, Round , Rilke's Dream City, the "high and deep, resounding” by Juan Ramon Jimenez , manages to welcome new projects within it that show that, this Malaga city anchored between mountains, not only speaks in the past tense.
Because Ronda bets on the new times and on renewing itself . To add to that literary and passionate image a cutting edge touch which makes it clear that times are changing. And she, better than anyone, knows how to dance to the new sound.
Ronda, Rilke's Dream City.
LET'S COLLECT: LET'S WALK
Any worthwhile visit to Ronda, no matter how many times you have walked, must start with a walk . For one of those routes that leads us to take its pulse, not to look at the map; to let the city itself lead us by the hand through its origins. Get lost in its cobbled streets: those that unfold beyond the old wall, and those inside.
We will have to look out over the Tagus to take our breath away , look up and down, towards the eternal horizon and towards the depths of the canyon, the one through which the Guadalevín runs at its leisure, making it clear that, here, he is the one in charge. We will engrave the stamp of the New bridge on our retinas and on our mobiles: the snapshot next to the great emblem of the city is a must.
And once we found the street La Bola ad nauseam, that we found ourselves standing in La Taberna , in the middle of Plaza del Socorro, to take that mountain black bread with squid and aioli that tastes of glory, that we we find ourselves lost by the Alameda del Tajo and by the Jardines del Moro , entered the Main Church and the Arab Baths... Then, it will be time to explore further. And look, because beyond is everything we need to be happy.
New Bridge, Ronda.
BACK TO RONDA… TO SLEEP IN CHARMING PLACES
There is no greater joy than feeling loved, protected and cared for, and that is precisely what happens in the Hotel Cueva del Gato, 15 minutes from the heart of the city and in a unique natural setting: because being lucky enough to get up with a view of the Cueva del Gato It is not something that happens every day.
Behind the project is Miguel Herrera , born in Algodonales although from Ronda by adoption. An enterprising chef with innumerable concerns that he is clear that, to achieve the goals, first you have to try to achieve them. Perhaps that fighting spirit, passionate about what he loves, comes from him: with a complicated family past, he was forced to make himself from a very young age.
With the Hotel Cueva del Gato he wanted to make this dream of retirement come true. only seven rooms in which nature is conscientiously cared for , something that worries him enormously: the ecological, the natural, is what predominates. With a rustic style sprinkled with innovative touches —the automated check-in is a success—, the main building, clad in stone, also houses a small living-dining room and a terrace where you can let the hours pass.
But here what is captivating, beyond the cave itself, declared a Natural Monument, is that without leaving the premises we can bathe in peace enjoying its saltwater pool or taking a walk the immense organic garden led by the young Mohamed Miguel wanted to give him an opportunity after emigrating from Morocco when he was only fifteen years old and alone: to offer him training and a trade.
And it is Mohamed's vegetables that are the stars many of the dishes that Kamal , with a story very similar to that of his partner, prepares in the kitchen under the chef's guidelines. Of course, lunches and dinners at the hotel are always by reservation: the kitchen, traditional in its essence, seeks to avoid waste , that is why only what is going to be consumed is made.
Miguel, passionate about his profession, was trained in places like the San Roque Hospitality School and among others of his projects are The Golimbreo —a cooking school for young people in care and people with disabilities—, the spoon —a catering with proposals that are a delight—, and L17 Rustic Food, some food trucks vintage the sea of molonas And he still has time to continue helping those who need it: during confinement created 850 menus for free every weekend for the Ronda neighbors of him. thumbs up
BACK TO RONDA… TO PROVIDE
The people of Ronda remember that the wine tradition came to Ronda two thousand years ago with the Phoenicians, and that when Ronda was not Ronda, but the Roman Acinipo, extensive vineyards embraced their lands.
This was the case until the arrival of phylloxera in the 20th century, but possibly those oenological roots were already installed in the genes of the locals. For this reason, for a few years and despite being largely unknown, the tradition has been recovered: today there are 26 wineries in its territory.
Barefoot Old Men is one of them. One of those little shelters scattered around the universe where you almost feel how time stands still. Much of the blame lies with its owners, Paco Retamero and Flavio Salesi, both architects. It was in 98 when they bet on this project: they bought the farm with an old Trinitarian convent from 1550 inside, and restored it.
Pleasant conversation, everything flows better with some snacks and a glass of wine ahead, and our guides know that well: to their credit they have 5 reds and one white —we bet on Justa and Rufina, their two jewels—, made from the different varieties of grapes grown on their land, those that extend towards the Hoya del Tajo under the huge balcony of their offices installed in the convent itself.
We walk hand in hand through the nooks and crannies of the farm, where the same surprises a spring of water than an immense avocado tree under which to organize cards. Next to us, always, the Negris and Dimitris, part —and only part— of the winery's mascots.
But inside, the stendhalazo arrives: the image that captivates everyone is the old chapel, with frescoes recovered behind its walls and whitewashed ceilings , which serves as a den for a good handful of barrels in which the wines are aged. Those that, sip by sip, make our lives happy. The chapel and farm are also used, on occasions, as a stage: the music sounds better in Barefoot Old.
Another of the Ronda wineries with a special essence is The Melonera . Anchored in the middle of the meadow full of centenarian oaks, in it they protect each one of their trees, taking advantage to plant vineyards only in the plots that are free between them, giving rise to a most peculiar vegetal mosaic.
Its modern facilities and its beautiful history arose from the dream that its owners set out to fulfill in 2003: recover indigenous strains already lost in the region . The information they needed was found in the old pages of a book from the private library of the Castle of Perelada : written by Simón de Rojas Clemente in 1807, they discovered that Melonera was one of them.
They then began an intense research work of more than a decade that culminated in absolute success: in addition to two other wines of different varieties, today they produce Yo Solo, made solely from this peculiar grape . Its purple color and, above all, its veins, are reminiscent of miniature watermelons. A treasure guarded in the highlands of Ronda.
BACK TO RONDA… TO DIP BREAD
The universe of liquid gold also unfolds in the mountains of Ronda. And it does thanks to LA Organic Experience , an oil tourism proposal born in 2016 from LA Amarilla, an ecological olive grove of 25 hectares located on ancestral lands controlled in the past by nuns, and which is now owned by the Gómez de Baeza family : they are responsible for reviving a tradition that dates back more than two centuries.
They offer guided tours that start even before starting: the huge photographs of the world of oil that decorate the parking lot They fill us with wonder.
Something further is known as Greenhouse, a ship camouflaged with the environment thanks to the work of various Spanish muralists, which is the starting point for the journey through winding lanes that lead us into the estate. A project whose design belongs to another important figure: French architect Philippe Starck.
Thanks to him, going through the spaces is constantly bumping into art in the form of surprises "What is that mirror in the middle of the field?" And that circular pool?—but it also means visiting the organic garden, the plantations with up to 25 different olive varieties , and the olive groves: those recovered from the past, the intensive and the super-intensive.
Also the works of what is to come: an immense and avant-garde space also designed by the Frenchman who it will house the oil mill, an oil museum, exhibition spaces and a panoramic restaurant.
The inauguration is expected to arrive in 2023. Meanwhile, you can always live this immersive experience that ends, of course, with its corresponding tasting: among the oils to try, the one that in 2015 won the award for Best Organic Oil in the World . To lick your fingers.
BACK TO ROUND… TO PUT OURSELVES TO THE TEST
Because not everything is going to be dedicating ourselves to a contemplative and lustful life: the body asks us to go and we are going to give it to it. And it will be from the hand of Angel, from Sierra Adventure Round, a young man from Ronda who has a surprise in store for us.
With boots and comfortable clothes, we put on harnesses and helmets and get ready to let the adrenaline flow: two via ferratas 60 meters high await us in the very Tajo de Ronda . We go down to the depths of the gorge and start the experience using some of the iron steps anchored in the rock that in the 1920s they were used by the operators of the hydroelectric plant in the area: we started the ascent.
The emotion catches us then , the nerves conquer us, and the vertigo is allowed to appear. But we can meet the challenge as soon as we look around us: the unique image of the New Bridge, seen from a most unusual perspective , it's stronger.
Finish the experience shortly before sunset, when the monuments are illuminated and Ronda shines in all its splendor, it is perfect as a reward for effort. Although, what we really long for, is to give us the well-deserved gastro tribute . And how lucky we are: in Ronda, the challenge is very easy to achieve.
Let the adrenaline run!
BACK TO RONDA… TO ENJOY AT THE TABLE
In order to live up to what has been lived —of the experiences, of the emotions, and of the meters!— we already have the two stars of Benedict in Bardal , which encourage us to continue the streak.
There is little to say —we have already talked about it many times in Condé Nast Traveler— about the incredible revolution that the chef has taken it upon himself to give to Ronda. It is also, of course, swallow , if what we are looking for is to remember the evening forever but we opt for a somewhat lower ticket.
Tapas is also a tradition in these parts, and Las Castañuelas a good place to confirm it . The classic floods its menu, and how much we like to use the usual flavors: fried anchovies and meatballs they are literally for dipping bread.
Although if we talk about heights, there is nothing like one of the fashionable corners: the Panoramic Restaurant from the Hotel Catalonia Ronda , with direct views of the Maestranza, gives us the best sushi in the region , but also tasty dishes like its incomparable croquettes, its risottos or its table of payoya and merino goat cheeses , both from the Sierra de Grazalema. What a treat.
To finish off, a drink on the terrace with which to say goodbye to the day under the Ronda sky. How much truth in what Rilke said: We even have the stars here within reach . Let's close our eyes: Let's start dreaming...
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