Josean Alija, the chef behind the magic of Nerua
The work of a gastronomic chronicler is reduced to eat, travel, ask, know and write . Evaluate from the most —improbable— objectivity, celebrate (in public, better) excellence and clarify (better, in private) criticism, what can be improved.
This polite start-up only serves to excuse me from what (many of you) already know: ** Nerua ** is probably the restaurant of my life; one of those who have marked my work and (much more importantly) my gaze; I vividly remember every lunch there, as I remember those dinners at Can Fabes, the elegance of Michel Bras, the last one (with the family) at elBulli or my first steps (2004) under the guidance of Quique Dacosta. But if a restaurant defines me, that is Nerua. Muina.
Without further ado, here is the Josean Alija Traveler Challenge :
We challenge your cook
Traveling is one of my passions . Thanks to my work, I have had the opportunity to get to know different countries and regions, always hand in hand with great connoisseurs and ambassadors of their land. They have taught me a lot and have offered me the soul of what makes them live in that environment. In some cases, chosen voluntarily and in others, with no other choice than to build their happiness based on small opportunities. Travel opens your mind . That implies interacting with the environment, that is when you develop empathy and cultivate curiosity. I want to share some of the cultures that have impacted me the most and what sequels and flavors they have left in me. Thanks to all the people who have reached out to me and have fed me with happiness, taste and pleasure.
**BELEM DO PARA, AMAZON (BRAZIL) **
My first contact with the Amazon was in Belem do Para . Its fish market impressed me: giant river fish totally unknown to me, fatty with different textures; the River shrimp , a mixture of flavor between shrimp and River crab … But if there is something that struck me, it was the variety of fruits, flavors, textures, colors … real cakes! Work with cassava and cassava , the taste of the stews… What beautiful memories!
I was lucky enough to live in the jungle for two weeks and there you understand the strength and value of nature. There you realize how with little you can be very lucky . These experiences mark you and encourage you to go to the origin to find the truth and to look for allies in nature to make the kitchen you like. They are territories not open to the world that imply adventure and, above all, gain the trust of their people, this does not happen immediately.
brazilian cassava
MEXICO
Mexico is a country that has piqued my interest since I was a child. His cuisine seems very interesting to me, due to its diversity, tradition, techniques and elegance. It is the cuisine of the people enjoyed by rich and poor, in addition to the social ritual that is created. One of the most interesting markets is San Juan , considered a gourmet market. It's a small market but it has a great selection of products.
One of the best things about Mexico is getting to know the markets and the customs that have been built around it. They offer popular and well-kept cuisine. The ideal is to go accompanied to know in detail the products, how they are used... You have unusual products for us, from all different chiles, going through insects… I see in the escamoles (ant eggs) a certain cultural resemblance to our eels. To get to know the traditional cuisine, the Nikos and El Bajío restaurants are essential. The most special to get to know the new Mexican cuisine are Sud777, Quintonil and Biko.
Mercado de San Juan: if food is your thing, this is the place
JAPAN
Japan is a country of worship and inspiration, they are totally opposite to us and that makes it more interesting. There is a specialty for everything and perfection is the norm, not a goal. You feel cared for, listened to without knowing your language, just for the pleasure of making you feel good. It is essential to go with a translator and having hosts who show you the wide panorama of gastronomy. Japan is a country very faithful to its traditions. There is no chef or gastronomy lover who can miss this country, it is extreme perfection and absolute delicacy, all the details are exquisitely cared for. Must visit Kyoto and get to know its gastronomy, the Buddhist temples, the vegetarian cuisine, the kaiseki ... You need to travel with time to acquire records that allow you to enjoy the apparent simplicity brought to perfection. It is a country where different styles of cuisine coexist, the environment and the season mark the proposal, but what is truly impressive are its products . Freshness and purity like I have never seen.
kaiseki
**AFRICA: ZANZIBAR **
Zanzibar is an island with an idyllic landscape . Although resources are limited, natives have their own tools. It is an island with many influences, it is enough to know its history to understand it. The most interesting thing was living with a family and savoring the adventures of each day: chickens and eggs are a luxury ; if you live near the sea, this is one important source of income and food . In addition, the influence of religions marks a lot the way of eating: the needs mark the style and the rituals, but they also accentuate the value of everyday life. In Zanzibar food is not planned, you eat what you have in the day, what you get . The customs are wild, they eat as if there were no tomorrow, something that surprises us. You live for the day. People share everything they have without fear of being left with nothing and they value any gesture you give them in return. There is a very 'cook' concept in families: offer and offer, and make people happy, but in his case fighting for his own life.
Hakuna Matata was born here
THAILAND
It is the country of honesty and kindness, and although there are different types of restaurants, I prefer the street stalls and markets. The cleanliness and purity of its aromas invite you to eat, and its friendliness closes the circle of trust. It is a country that invites you to travel and live freely, the food is not a problem and it is healthy . Let yourself be carried away by your instinct, select the positions that inspire you, that awaken your desire, eat with confidence . Eating in Thailand is not a matter of economy, but of gastronomic interest.
It is a tasty and light cuisine, without great whims, but with good dressings. I am fascinated by their curries and how they coexist with one and other products. I love its contrasts and the ease with which umami is found in dishes . The new gastronomic codes in Thailand have a European influence adapted to their customs. It is awakening a kitchen that will be very interesting when it is defined. There are many cultural and religious influences, which makes me see that we have more advantages, we are freer, that is why creativity and avant-garde in Spain make the difference compared to other cultures and countries.
Bangkok's best kept secret
SINGAPORE
In Chinatown and its markets , which are fascinating, you can eat delicious food for very democratic prices, in addition to feeling the soul of their culture. In Singapore I discovered an interest in Chinese cuisine, there are very good Chinese restaurants where you eat very different products with different textures. You eat everything for pleasure, although the names often do not invite you to do so. They are experts in offal and vegetables . It is a cuisine that is liked, also by people who do not know it and even those who do not understand it. When you are there you eat everything, you eat what they give you, without prejudice, something that many times is not done in our own country. The new cuisine in Singapore also has an important weight, as well as being rich in influences.
food stall in singapore
CONCLUSIONS
The motivation to travel is the need to discover other cultures, other ways of living, sharing and living together, as well as the desire to discover the unexpected. This is a path that broadens your horizons and that builds the richness of the creative process, knowing to apply . All these and many other experiences have influenced my local way of understanding cooking. Enjoyment, adventure, friendship, humanity, originality, popular culture , which is the science of experience, is what attracts me to travel. It is wonderful to see how the same product is so changeable according to the needs or concerns of its consumer and the reasons for all this. The kitchen and the meetings are a pure reflection of happiness.
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"The kitchen and the meetings are a pure reflection of happiness"
*** You may also be interested in...**
- The Traveler Challenge by Begoña Rodrigo
- Eneko Atxa's Traveler Challenge
- The Paco Morales Traveler Challenge
- The challenge of Estanis Carenzo, chef of Sudestada
- All Traveler Challenges
- Emerging powers at the table: Mexico
- San Juan Market in Mexico: a pleasure for the senses
- Zanzibar: Hakuna Matata was born here
- Markets to eat them: Bangkok
- JJ: Bangkok's best kept secret
- Three gastronomic plans in Singapore