Sa Tuna beach, in Begur.
Begur stretches in spring like someone who still doesn't know that they are about to witness a storm, in this case of heat, sun, towels and beach bars crowded with people. A few days before the start of the high season, its stillness overwhelms.
Calm that we admire from the top of his castle with a blanket Pine trees, White Houses, the sea with the Medes Islands in the background and a swell that reminds us that, for now, summer will take a long time to arrive.
located between the Estartit , north, and Palamos, to the south, this small town of Girona, of little more than 4,000 inhabitants (which in summer reaches 20,000), is an authentic historical gem and gastronomic.
Sa Tuna, Begur.
** Begur must be discovered slowly ** and with the idea that what you are going to find is not what you expect.
We think of Cadaques and we remember the bohemian tourism and of Dali and Gala , which also bring those carefree airs here although, yes, in Begur what is breathed is a more coquettish and familiar tourism , of the one who repeats and stays forever.
WHEN BEGUR FELL IN LOVE WITH CARMEN AMAYA
We came in Tapas from Begur , a bar located in the Plaça de la Vila , right in the town center also with the Church of Sant Pere in Begur Y 'It's long stones' , an elongated stone bench that runs along the façade of the church that was formerly (and now also) the perfect place to see the social life of the village.
Perhaps one is not expected in full Costa Brava listen to flamenco, but that's right, at Tapas de Begur we discover the first secret of our beloved Begur.
The relationship of the people with the Flemish goes back to his golden years , and we do not mean that now they are not, but it is that great artists and characters of the glamor of the years 50, 60 and 70 What Ava Gardner and Kirk Douglas.
Begur, a town of crushes, shot into the heart of ** the Barcelona bailaora Carmen Amaya **, who not only fell in love with her, but stayed to live until her death in 1963.
Indian houses of Begur.
The dancer was looking for a place calm and relaxed near the sea: when she saw More d'en Pinc , a typical Catalan farmhouse with one of the few defense towers preserved from XVII century, she was clear.
Carmen Amaya felt ever since Begur's daughter , making it known on many occasions, the last one being when she organized a dance in the courtyard of the Forge Factory to raise money and thus illuminate the Begur Castle. They attended this dance Salvador Dali, Gala and Madeleine Carroll. Oh, who could travel to the past!
Today More d'en Pinc it's a museum open to the public where you can learn more about Amaya , one of the most important figures of flamenco.
AND THE INDIANS ARRIVED
To squeeze Begur you have to go to its old town , although the spectacular houses with views of the coves and beaches attract as Ulysses the sirens. We continue in our efforts to learn more secrets about this seafaring town.
A great economic crisis and the lack of work in 1800 forced many families to leave from Catalonia to America or as it was called at the time “to make the Americas” . Many of them settled in ** Havana ** to do business and a lot of money.
They became those men pure white dresses Y linen , with panamanian hats and a cigar cigar in the mouth. These same were the ones who, with well-filled pockets, built houses similar to those they had seen in ** Cuba **, which today if you look up and are somewhat curious, you will see in the old town of Begur.
Grilled clams from Toc al Mar, in Begur.
The House of Can Sora built in 1870 with a porch filled with romanesque frescoes, Bonaventure House either Can Pi belonging to merchants, who, once arrived here, invested in the cork industry.
These houses can be known with guided tours organized by the town hall every Friday in the summer. During this time of the year you can also hear in the sea the habanera songs, a song style cuban . Here in Begur they are sung accompanied by burnt rum in the old schools and in the Sa Riera beach.
FOR THE PLEASURE OF EATING
You can and should visit the surrounding towns of the Costa Brava , but allow yourself the pleasure of knowing Begur for the palate . Here the cuisine deserves a habanera, a sing flamenco and a jack if it fits. And where to try those delicate delicacies ?
There are many places, we have no doubt, but you cannot miss one of the best: Toc al Mar, located in the Aiguablava beach . Pay attention to us and visit it out of season , only then will you enjoy the views of the calm beach , the sea and the maritime atmosphere that is breathed.
Eight years of experience is enough for them to do the best grilled fish with local oak , a fresh fish and wild brought from Llotja de Palamos , which your team will present as if you were going to witness a artwork, because that's.
The fresh and tasty fish of Casa Juanita.
Let yourself go and listen to their suggestions. you will dream of your prawns from Palamós , with the clams, the croquettes, with its rice dishes, —the square pan is quite a discovery—and the grilled octopus, poetry.
If the day is nice, you can rest among pine trees and rocks or do one of the stretches of the Camí de Ronda, which joins all the beaches of Begur and that is especially beautiful for its landscapes. The stretch of Cami de Ronda Sur will take you about two hours: start at Aiguablava beach , goes through Fornells and arrives until beach inn.
We seek and find another of the most authentic restaurants in Begur . Near the Casino is Juanita House , a small place with character and sailor blood . Chef Jordi Barreda has worked with fish like no one else since 1978 in a wood oven.
In the past, when Jordi's mother worked, there was only one fish of the day but now the waiters bring to the table varieties according to the season and you can choose the one you like the most for a very reasonable price . In spring it would be a sin to miss the rockfish , an institution in the area that “feeds on lobsters and that is why it has such a delicious flavor”, explains Jordi smiling.
Turandot Restaurant, Begur.
Here things are done with love, don't be in a hurry , ask for one of their starters, the octopus is our recommendation and the SALAD too (ah! and save room for **dessert)**. Salt, olive oil , hand in the oven and you already have one of the best fish What are you going to try in life? Sailor's word!
ROMANTIC BEGUR
when it falls the night, Begur gets very romantic, with those little lights that adorn the town and those magical little restaurants . We headed to the one they say is one of the best for dinner as a couple: the **Turandot restaurant**, in honor of the opera of Giacomo Puccini.
Dinner follows the rhythm of a score, neither fast nor slow, neither too much nor too little. We celebrate this visit with a delicious mackerel , nail scallops with peas from Maresme , a salmon marinated in a fennel salad and a very tasty cod with chickpeas. Let them pamper you with their wines, we chose a Organic Verdejo from Castilla y León.
We end the evening with stand by me and his rich desserts, the cheesecake and the truffles are a pleasant surprise.
If you are one of those who does not say no to a drink, come to the Aigua Clara Hotel. They will be waiting for you there 'Vinyl Nights' with music from the 70s, 80s and 90s. you can put jazz and soul if you prefer to stay for dinner, although do not forget to book early.
The views of the Hotel Aigua Blava in Begur.
THE BEST VIEWS OF FORNELLS
In Fornells , away from the urban center between cliffs, olive and pine trees , is one of the most emblematic places in town, the Hotel Aigua Blava , built in 1934 by Clara Capellà, better known as Claretta Mrs.
A woman with a lot of grit who, despite the time and being a widowed mother, decided to open a hotel in the middle of Spanish Civil War , something that for many could be considered crazy, but! Holy madness with these views! From here Begur will remain in your retina forever.
we arrived on third weekend of March , the first of the season of the year and they receive us as if we were in our house In fact, the service is the best valued of the hotel by the clients. A clientele that repeats and goes from generation to generation , as they explain to us.
If you have come to disconnect with your partner , we recommend the superior rooms that have magnificent sea views , it is possible that you cannot get rid of this overview, you have been warned. Don't miss their delicious and generous breakfasts with the Fornells beach on the horizon.
Who would not repeat with these views?