Lastres, Asturias
The new normality (what a terrifying concept) flees from overcrowding and invites us to explore other ways to travel. In times in which air travel is still uncertain, in which overcrowding on crowded beaches or swimming pools may not seem like the best option, we can, however, make a virtue of necessity and turn our eyes towards other models of tourism.
It is not always necessary to go so far, no matter how much it is something that we love, to enjoy the getaway; probably there are corners, routes, dishes and towns a stone's throw away that not only we do not know but, in addition, they can guarantee us a quieter getaway, with social distancing guaranteed.
And all this without giving up to incredible landscapes, ancient forests, cliffs, monuments that have been watching pilgrims and travelers pass by for more than a thousand years.
These five routes are an example that the new normal can have a lot to offer us, that gastronomy and travel can continue to go hand in hand even though our radius of action is limited. Five routes that combine landscape, cuisine, charming accommodation and lesser known territories so that travel remains within our reach even in these strange times.
Ezcaray, good life Riojan style
LA RIOJA: ECHAURREN AND THE BEECH WOOD OF PAZUENGOS
The Echaurren hotel, in Ezcaray, justifies a trip by itself. For its charming rooms, for its fantastic breakfasts, for the solid gastronomic offer that the Paniego family has been shaping over more than a century or for the tranquility and charm of this town on the upper course of the Oja River .
Whatever the reason that makes you get there, surely you will not regret having done so. In my case, a good plan could be to arrive, have dinner at El Portal del Echaurren and enjoy the cuisine of Francis Paniego before spending the night at the hotel.
Local cheeses, jams and homemade cakes for breakfast before starting towards Pazuengos. You can walk up from Ezcaray, although there are almost 500 meters of elevation gain in just 10 kilometers.
Through the streets of Ezcaray
If you don't feel like it, drive up to Pazuengos, at almost 1,200 meters of altitude. In this village, which today has only 30 inhabitants, El Cid earned his title of Champion. And from here starts a path that goes down to San Millan de la Cogolla. It is worth doing the whole thing, if you have someone to pick you up when you get downstairs.
Nevertheless, the first sections of the route are enough. Barely 3 kilometers, and many others back, to cross one of the most spectacular forests of these mountains. Centennial beech and chestnut trees among which the cowbells sound and accompany you as you climb, very gently, to the pass of El Rebollar.
To the north, at your feet, the ravine of San Martín and the Pancrudo, with its more than 2,000 meters. To the south and west, a forest of oaks that shelters you until, in the place of the Cave of the Moors, after a bend, you find the valley, with the monastery of San Millán and the village of Berceo down there and a hill that at some point in the iron age was a town. If you try hard you can still guess, among the junipers, where the walls were and where the fields were.
You just have to go back to the hotel and enjoy a shower and dinner at Echaurren Tradition, the establishment's second restaurant, where they prepare the most classic dishes, those that the Paniego's mother, Marisa, refined over decades. Be sure to try the hake or the meatball.
Echaurren, Ezcaray
ASTURIAS: FROM GÜEYU MAR TO LA ESPASA
You can start at Ribadesella to warm up your legs and enjoy entering the town of Vega . Or go directly here and park on the beach. Right there, in front of the dunes, is Güeyu Mar, one of the most famous grills dedicated to the marine product in Spain.
What is offered here goes far beyond what you would imagine if you arrive clueless, without knowing anything about the place: great product from the nearby fish markets, exceptional work with the grill and a wine list to match make Güeyu Mar one of those places of pilgrimage for lovers of gastronomy.
If you eat on the terrace you will see how on the slope, in front of you and above the beach, a path ascends. It is the Camino del Norte, one of the branches of the Camino de Santiago that from here heads, skirting the cliffs, towards Galicia.
Seafood such as barnacles or small crabs and fish such as grouper, king or turbot, impossible to choose!
The climb is light and the views impressive. As you gain altitude, the horizon widens over the Cantabrian Sea. The road passes through Berbes (with an interesting taverna) before sticking back to the shoreline and heading down towards the Pedreru Les Teyes.
When you get to the Morís sandbank there are some small tables and a fountain on the edge of the cliff , with the beach at the foot. Don't rule out a bath and a nap. From here the path continues, with meadows that reach the cliffs, towards La Espasa beach.
You can take off your shoes and walk the last couple of kilometers along the shore to the town. And from here, if you want, continue towards The three for dinner maybe Casa Eutimio, the classic of this beautiful fishing village.
Espasa Beach
ANDALUSIA: EL CAMPERO AND THE NATURAL PARK OF LA BREÑA
The Natural Park of La Breña extends between Barbate and Cape Trafalgar. Leaving the town along the Playa de la Hierbabuena, the path enters the park among pine forests that, from time to time, open up to reveal the cliffs, which in some sections are close to 100 meters high.
Half way through the forest clears up. A defensive tower built by order of Philip II controls the entire cove from here. On a clear day, in the background, behind Punta Camarinal, you can see the African coast.
If you look in the mood it's worth it continue towards Los Caños and Cabo de Trafalgar or go up to the viewpoint of the Torre de Meca. In either case the views are worth the extra effort. And from here, again among pine forests, back to barbate.
Natural Park of Breña and Marismas de Barbate
The road enters back into the town right through the neighborhood where it is El Campero, the restaurant that has become a temple dedicated to almadraba bluefin tuna. You have to take advantage of the coincidence. Its seafood menu is worth it, whether on the terrace, in the restaurant or in the more casual version offered at the bar.
Everything in their offer is appetizing. Although for a first visit, perhaps the most advisable thing is to combine the most traditional tapas with some more current proposals: Almadraba red tuna roe in oil, grilled tuna heart, mormo with onions, ventresca sashimi… it is not easy to choose. But you can always stay one more day and repeat tomorrow.
the camper
CASTILLA Y LEÓN: THE PHARMACY OF MATAPOZUELOS AND THE CAMINO DE NIVARIA
Walks through wheat fields and pine forests, paths that seem to go on forever, villages and bell towers that stand out on the horizon. The Camino de Nivaria is one of the approved hiking routes in Castilla y León (officially it is the PRC-VA 33) and it is perfect for a not too hot sunset.
From the center of Matapozuelos, in Valladolid, the trail crosses cereal fields along the Camino de Sieteiglesias towards the Adaja River. The stone bridge crosses next to a perfect sandy area to cool off.
From here it is worth prolonging the walk a bit to get closer to the Hermitage of Sieteiglesias, which overlooks the confluence of the river with the Eresma. And from here, back to the south, along the path of one of the royal roads that cross the area, first along the bank of the Eresma, then along the Adaja.
A walk along the Adaja River
There is a ford that you can cross easily in summer and, behind it, more farmland with the town in the background. Arriving at the houses, in one of the first streets, there are an artisan pastry workshop, La Giralda de Castilla, which can be a good stop.
In any case, on the way back, the end of the route should be at La Botica de Matapozuelos, one of the most interesting restaurants in Castile for its combination of traditional offerings and cuisine, that of Miguel Ángel de la Cruz , which reinterprets the resources of the territory in a personal key.
The aromas of the pine forests and the fields that surround the town seep into each dish and turn the restaurant into one of those places that anyone who wants to know what is happening in contemporary Castilian cuisine should have on their agenda.
The hunt, his mantra
CATALONIA: SAGÀS AND THE MERLÈS ROUTE
Els Casals It is much more than a restaurant. It is a gastronomic experience that can become an excursion in itself.
Located in the beautiful family rural house, the perfect starting point for this last route, the restaurant offers a Catalan cuisine, mansion, roots and deep flavors and it is one of those destinations that, if you are moved by gastronomic projects with soul , you have to know.
The restaurant's menu draws, to a large extent, from the family farm, Cal Rovira , located just one kilometer further on the same road. Shop, farm and factory some of the best sausages you'll taste in a long time , is another of the mandatory stops on this tour.
And a little further on, on that same road, the bridge over the Riera de Merlès. The best thing, at this point, is to drive upstream along the small road that runs along the shore, to the campsite.
River of Merlès
From there, next to the Molí de Vilardell, the trail combines sections of land with others of very gentle canyoning through landscapes of absolute tranquility. There are small waterfalls, pools where you can take a bath, paths through the forest.
It all depends on how wet you want to get and of course your fitness. But even the quietest can enjoy here a walk through the calmer Berguedà, just 90 minutes from the center of Barcelona.
A Serra de Picancel that, somehow, is announcing the Pyrenees, towns like Sagàs, of absolute tranquility. The luxury of waking up in one of the rooms at Els Casals. And those views. And the silence.
The greenery of Berguedà