Dog sledding on the Torne riverbed.
The only thing that can be heard is the slight noise of the skates caressing the frozen snow. We just reached the realm of absolute silence in which the only noise is caused by your curses for not having properly put on a suit that, inevitably, annoys you. We are in the vicinity of the ice hotel in Jukkasjärvi, Kiruna, northern Sweden and we travel in a sleigh pulled by twelve dogs . And, although it seems that they can't handle it, they don't stop shooting at full speed.
We have to get back fast because daylight hours are short and the dogs don't have headlights. An ice sculpture class awaits us. I'm definitely not an artist: I can only think of making a hole in my block. Saving me from embarrassment is the alert given by Anne Sofie (the teacher and sculptor who has created one of the hotel rooms) so that we go out to contemplate **an extraordinary phenomenon called Pearl Clouds**. Anne Sofie explains to us that it is a worrying sign because it occurs when it is too hot in winter and, immediately afterwards, she points to the ubiquitous thermometer: marks a suffocating -5º.
T Everyone is very concerned about global warming in this area especially sensitive. They are analyzing the migration behavior of animals (reindeer and wild dogs) to find out if this phenomenon is affecting the region. The animals move north in search of the lichen and it grows only in cold areas. If they see too many copies pass by, it is a bad sign.
Yngue Bergquist, is an environmental engineer, creator and partner of the Ice Hotel. He lives in a place that is very sensitive to change and is a staunch defender of the ecosystem: "I don't intend to save the world, I just do what is within my reach," he says.
In addition to respect for the environment, art is the other great attraction of the Ice Hotel. Each of the rooms is designed by a different artist and the result is equivalent to a real museum. in the rooms only ice, snow, reindeer fur is used and, thanks to the fact that they do not heat up, led lights . The small church, also made of ice, has become a success for celebrating weddings, so much so that they have also thought of building a mosque. Although the ice rooms are a gift to admire them, it is advisable to spend, at most, one night. The rest of the time it is advisable to stay in one of the Swedish eco-design cabins and universal austerity.
The Pearl Clouds weather phenomenon from the Ice Hotel.
And what is the time spent in the middle of Lapland? The night can be used to make **a snowmobile excursion in search of the northern lights**. Driving it is quite simple and you can always go as a pack. With the cold of the night and the threatening darkness you feel very small. However, the strength of going in a group gives you a respite from the eternity of the vault of heaven. Every so often the guide who leads the way and leads the way stops to tell that all the expedition members are present.
Suddenly, André (our guide) stops the march because a white stripe appears on the horizon, he assures that it is a shy aurora. One expects to see a show worthy of Cirque du Soleil, with green visual effects and heavenly soundtrack, this just seems like a rehearsal. In any case, and although so timidly, this aurora manages to turn you into a tiny being in front of the universe. The best thing is to enjoy them... if you can find them.
To the north, at Abisko, is the season where you're almost guaranteed to 'catch' a Northern Lights. A few kilometers from this point is the ski resort of Björkliden , a simply unheard of place. It is 250 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle and allows skiing from February to almost the end of June without crowds. In addition to being a paradise for ski lovers, c It has the northernmost golf course on the planet.
A group of dogs waits for the moment to start pulling
In the opposite direction to the migrations of the reindeer we head south, crossing Gällivare and Jokkmokk to reach Harads, to the Tree Hotel, another of those unique places that hides the north of Sweden. There we meet Kent Lindvall and Britta Jonsson-Lindvall, a fairytale couple who run a fairytale hostel, the Brittas , to which a few years ago they decided to give an interesting twist. There are several very striking rooms scattered throughout the treetops of the forest, each one different and each one more original: bird's nest, mirror, ufo, fairy tale house ... The place has become known and guided tours are organized just to get to know it.
Our route continued to take us south, passing places that leave their mark, such as the small ski resort of Storklinten . We continue along the main road until we reach Luleå, making a stop at its cathedral and continuing on to our final destination, Skellefteå, by the sea. We made a stop that turned out to be one of the most exciting experiences at the Skelllefteå Drive Center, close to Fållfors. Is about a former army air base converted into an ice driving course . Something that simply justifies the trip.
We also visited Thorbjörn Holmund, known in Sweden as the 'moose man'. An eccentric character with a terrible charm who has several adventure camps scattered throughout the area and where you can stay at a very good price enjoying unforgettable days with hot baths in the open air in the middle of the frozen forest, snowmobile excursions looking for moose and eco-driving lessons on Lake Varuträsk.
Many emotions and experiences thanks, precisely, to the fact that it is winter. In a few months, the sun will rise, almost like every day, on May 30, but it will not be put back until July 10 . A day that lasts a month. It is the midnight sun but that is another story, in another world but in this same place.
The Tree Hotel
PRACTICAL TIPS
Warm clothing : buy extreme ski clothing. Good ski pants, long thermal fiber underwear. Several pairs of socks (on more than one occasion you will have to wear three pairs at the same time). Fleece lining, thick jacket, fleece panties and also a balaclava like the ones worn by motorcyclists, the kind that only leave the eyes uncovered and sunglasses and wind goggles. Footwear is a complicated matter, no matter how good the boots you bring are, they are nothing compared to those that can be bought there and that are also loaned to you in the different hotels or stations. In addition to all those layers that already make it difficult for you to move, it is common for them to make you wear a very thick jumpsuit, do not reject it even if it ends your sense of ridicule.
Hotels :
-Ice Hotel. It is, without a doubt, the reference to stay in Lapland. A conservationist concept of the environment, spectacular rooms sculpted in ice, surprising facilities, good gastronomy and an extensive catalog of activities will make a visit to this area an unforgettable experience. HD: €350; Jukkasjarvi; Phone +44 (0) 1483 425 465;
-Tree Hotel. The hotel in the trees continues to grow and incorporates new rooms such as the UFO, although the favorite is still the mirror room, it also offers transportation service from the airport by snowmobile or helicopter. Quite a luxury for one of the most interesting hotels in terms of concept and design in the world. HD: €370; harads; Phone +46 (0) 928-104 03
- Hotel Stiftsgarden. The best option to stay in Skellefteå. It is a 10 minute walk from the center. His restaurant is also one of the best in the city. Skelleftea; phone +46 (0) 910 725 700;
Activities
-Abisko Sky Station. 100 km from Kiruna is this place that is promoted as "Probably the best northern lights that can be seen on Earth", separate claims do guarantee a 75 percent chance of being able to contemplate this atmospheric phenomenon. The chairlift climb to the restaurant, which serves as a base, is very impressive. Abisko; phone +46 (0) 980 402 00.
- Skelleftea Driving Center. Another one of those unique experiences in Lapland. The best place where you can experience an ice circuit created to skid with powerful cars. They organize competitions on the large circuit that takes advantage of the runway of the old Swedish army airbase. They also conduct shooting exercises and pilot courses for special forces from around the world. There is the possibility of staying on the circuit itself to make the most of your time. Fallfors; phone + 46 (0) 912 200 40
- Arctic Explorer icebreaker. In Piteå, north of Skellefteå, is the Pite Havsbad resort. There you can embark on an icebreaker that goes a few miles into the sea. The ship breaks through the ice blocks, not by pushing but by climbing on top of the frozen layer as it goes. At one point, the boat stops in the middle of the frozen sea, allowing you to go down to have a snack and the most daring can take a swim in the icy waters protected by a thick, fully sealed neoprene suit. Pitea; phone +46 (0) 911 327 00.
ski resorts
- Björkliden Fjällby is 90 minutes by direct transfer from Kiruna airport. It is located next to the Abisko station. It has slopes for all levels, a golf course. Accommodations in rooms and individual cabins. All kinds of excursions and winter activities and few crowds. phone +46 (0) 980 641 00.
- Storklinten , a small ski resort next to the Treehotel. Possibility of excursions spending the night in a traditional Sami tipi. Tel. +46 (0) 921 138 50.
* This report was published in issue 47 of Traveler magazine.