Ascension Cathedral
The Tian Shan –Celestial Mountains for friends- are in charge of welcoming while the taxi speeds through the journey from the international airport to the heart of the most famous city in Kazakhstan: Almaty, which was its capital until 1998 and the cultural, economic and tourist center of the country.
The snowy peaks can be seen in the distance, imposing, rising into the sky to reach more than 4,000 meters, and that is impressive. The city could not have a more beautiful setting than this.
Almaty and the spectacle of its mountains in the background
Once on the ground, the anxieties of those who move through a practically unknown city lead to want to walk without control. Let's see, what's going on around here? It is then, while advancing through wide avenues and large Soviet-style buildings, when going through its markets, its tsarist-era temples and its cafeterias full of youthful atmosphere, when he begins to intuit what this is about.
But before continuing, let's contextualize: Kazakhstan is the ninth largest country in the world, one more of those powers that belonged to the Soviet Union and whose names end in '-istan'. However, while tourism bets more and more on its neighbors Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan, Few are still those who dare to enter its vast territory. Big mistake, friends.
In the absence of a historic center proper to any city, Almaty has its tourist attractions scattered throughout half the city which, moreover, is of considerable dimensions. So, to move from one place to another, one of two: either you pull your legs, that never fails; or bet on Yandex, a taxi service app that will take you to the most remote corner of the city for little money and, best of all, no communication problems with their drivers, who understand English what we understand Mandarin Chinese.
A third option, only for the most daring, is basic and the most used by Kazakhs: raise your hand next to any street and wait for a local to stop with his car. Then, and drawing on inventiveness and gestural language, it will be necessary close a price and a destination. That easy.
The wonder of circulating in front of the Monument to Independence
One way or another, we will have to get to the Panfilov Heroes Park, a good place to start a route through the city. Here, between paths and garden areas, stands the beautiful Cathedral of the Ascension, a tsarist-style building with a multi-colored facade built entirely in blue fir. A curiosity? As they say, it was built without using a single nail.
Families stroll through the central square of the park while the little ones run around and feed the pigeons. Also the kiosk next to one of the groves is overflowing with people.
Another orthodox church, this smaller one, receives faithful without ceasing, endowing the atmosphere with a certain mysticism, although in Victory Square, a couple of minutes away, what reigns is rather the solemnity with which the Kazakhs pay their respects before the enormous monuments in honor of those who fell in various wars.
A torch remains lit in the center while traditional music plays in the background: it comes from the National Museum of Instruments, located in the same square. A visit? Well come on.
Monument in honor of the fallen
It is in this part of the city where the hubbub takes over the streets. Is about a commercial area full of shops, restaurants and stalls s where you can buy almost anything. Here the essence of Almaty is largely concentrated.
An enormous building with sober lines, without too much paraphernalia, houses the GreenMarket, obligatory stop. Both inside and in the surroundings there are corridors in which the shopkeepers greet smiling while the most disparate odors intoxicate without control: the spices and nuts they are great protagonists here, although they are not lacking either meat, fish, fruits and vegetables and, of course, milk and its derivatives. It will be time to try one of the star products of the country: the kumys, some small balls of fermented mare's milk not suitable for delicate palates – you have been warned.
Among the constant coming and going of people, something powerfully attracts attention: the interesting racial mix that can be seen is worthy of study. And it is precisely because of its location, between big ones like Russia, Mongolia and China, the features of the Kazakhs are the most attractive: from 100% Caucasian features to those with slanted eyes and, however, an intense blue color. miscegenation to power.
To taste the most authentic flavors of Kazakhstan, nothing like sitting at the table of any of the bars scattered around the market. Of course: we will have to get used to the idea that we will have to ask with the finger, unless you are an expert in Cyrillic! Point to the photo that seems most attractive and wait to see if you were lucky. An advice? A good plate of noodles and vegetables never disappoints.
Green Market
To get off the food, a walk to the nearby Almaty Central Mosque It will not hurt: the interior is not open to non-Muslims, but the atmosphere that is created around it in the moments prior to prayer it is most interesting.
BETWEEN SHOPPING CENTERS AND MONUMENTS
As a good city with Soviet roots, monumental buildings, austere and imposing in appearance, they abound in the different neighborhoods of the city.
the immense Independence Monument is a column 28 meters high holding the figure of a Saka warrior in full Republic Square. In front of him, whoever was the Presidential palace it continues to house government offices, although access to its interior is prohibited.
Between gardens, monuments and fountains you reach Satpaev avenue, full of cafes like ** Urban Coffee :** a modern place worthy of any European capital on whose large terrace young people meet daily to enjoy a brunch, have a cocktail or smoke hookah.
An example that Kazakh society has nothing to do with those years of communism: two streets later, Dostyk Plaza, a huge shopping center, removes any shadow of doubt.
You will have to take the funicular that leads to **the neighboring hill of Kok Tobé (1,110 meters)** with some forethought so as not to miss one of the key moments of the day in Almaty. Up there, after a 30-minute drive across Kazakh rooftops and mountains, you land next to the telecommunications tower.
Around it, a peculiar amusement park with a roller coaster, Ferris wheel, raffles and even a curious sculpture of the Beatles accompany the key moment: the views of Almaty with the sun falling on the horizon are absolutely crazy.
At nightfall, the most enjoying ones pay attention, because wherever you see it, the Kazakh city has a spectacular gastronomic offer. And here are two restaurants where you can pay tribute: ** Daredzhani ,** specializing in Georgian cuisine and whose terrace is ideal for a quiet evening; Y Gosti, a Russian restaurant located in an old mansion of the XIX century of the most authentic.
The later cup will be around the Ritz Carlton, where much of the nightlife is concentrated: at **Echo Summer Bar** the music plays at full volume until late at night.
see sunset from here
BEYOND ALMATY
Time to explore the beyond: the best thing about Almaty having so many mountains in its surroundings is that it allows discover a parallel world that runs very, very close.
Half-day or full-day excursions allow you to enjoy wonders such as the Shymbulak Ski Resort, one of the most exclusive in all of Central Asia.
To do this you have to take the urban bus to the stop before Medeo, the world's tallest open-air ice skating rink, just outside the city. It will not hurt to take a look at the facilities before getting on the cable car that leads, in several stops and cabin changes, to Talgar Pass, at 3,300 meters above sea level.
See the imposing mountains up close, enjoy the scenery and the sights of the city of Almaty there in the distance is a must.
Outside the ski season the area is filled with hiking enthusiasts that enter nature through multiple routes. An advice? If you plan to go up, you have to be careful and take something warm: up there the temperatures drop considerably.
Before returning to the city, a good idea is to stop at Chalet , a stylish restaurant dressed in wood with an interior viewpoint that leaves you speechless. Food recommendation? Their lamb skewer is… the best!
Big Almaty Lake
Another unmissable proposal is the excursion to the Big Almaty Lake. An hour's drive from the heart of the city, this beautiful lake with waters of an impossible blue It is the one that supplies the old Kazakh capital. Hence, it is strictly forbidden to approach its shore so as not to contaminate it. It is the preferred getaway spot for families and friends, who they set up their picnic in any corner willing to enjoy the impressive picture with picnic lunch included.
Returning to Almaty, and with the mountains always in the background, the road leads to one of the most emblematic and spectacular parks in the city: President's Park. Total, 73 hectares of trees, gardens and trails which are accessed through one of the monumental symbols: the immense semicircular colonnade which has become, since its opening in 2011, the perfect setting for Kazakh couples' wedding photos. You just have to take a walk through the park to run into dozens of lovers posing in their best clothes next to its fountains and gardens.
A most peculiar and curious picture, perfect to say goodbye to a welcoming city full of contrasts. A remote corner of the world that can more or less fool you, but leaves no one indifferent.