Balenciaga by Demna Gvasalia padded coat
From London to New York passing through Amsterdam and Paris: these are the fashion exhibitions that you must include in your 20120 fashion calendar.
TIM WALKER: WONDERFUL THINGS _(Victoria & Albert Museum, London) _
“If we have so many terrible things, we also need wonderful things” Timothy "Tim" Walker said. A phrase that could well summarize the –excuse the redundancy– wonderful work of the British photographer.
The exhibition introduces us to Walker's creative process through his images, films, photographic sets and installations, plus ten new photographic projects influenced by the V&A collections.
A fairy tale full of magic and surrealism where there is no lack of colored cats, a plane inside a house or dresses hanging from a tree as garlands.
To prepare for the exhibition, the photographer visited the object shops and conservation studios of the V&A and he met with many of the museum's curators, conservators, and technicians.
He toured the 145 public galleries and he was lost in the labyrinth of victorian passages discovering luminous stained glass windows, erotic illustrations, golden shoes and a 65 meter long photograph of the Bayeux Tapestry – the largest in the museum's collection.
These and many other artifacts have inspired Walker to compose this exhibit. designed by creative Shona Heath.
_(Until March 1, 2020) _
'Karen Elson, Sgaire Wood & James Crewe', London, 2018
POWER MODE: THE FORCE OF FASHION _(The Museum at FIT) _
The Power Mode exhibition explores the multiple roles played by fashion in establish, reinforce and challenge power dynamics within society through more than 50 objects from the museum's permanent collection, many of which have never been exhibited to the public.
"Power" is a powerful word, excuse the redundancy and it appears frequently in the jargon of the fashion world: power heels, the power suit... But what makes a suit or shoes powerful? That is the question that this exhibition aims to answer.
Power Mode is made up of five sections where we can contemplate the influence of military uniforms, status, suits, resistance and gender.
The first section presents a series of military and military-inspired garments such as the “dress blue” uniform of the lieutenant colonel of the US Army, a World War II "Ike" jacket and looks from Yves Saint Laurent, Burberry and Ralph Lauren.
The next section focuses on the different modes of clothing that have emerged in the last 250 years, from ermine capes and luxurious brocade fabrics to contemporary "It" bags and logo-covered products.
The next section is dedicated to the suit and in it we find pieces such as a black suit for men from the 19th century and a white suit for women from the 1910s that coexist with more recent examples such as a Marc Jacobs suit worn by Lady Gaga and a "shrunken" custom suit by Thom Browne.
The fourth section explores the role of resistance in clothing for power through garments such as iconic jeans, printed t-shirts and black leather jackets.
The final section explores the impact of sex and fetishes on fashion showing corsets, leather, lingerie and high-heeled boots with the presence of various works by designers such as Gianni Versace, Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Ricardo Tisci.
_(Until May 9, 2020) _
Burberry Fall 2010
** FAST FASHION: THE DARK SIDES OF FASHION ** (Museum Europäischer Kulturen, Berlin)
A critical look that delves into what is hidden behind the spotlight and the glamor of the fashion universe, with special emphasis on the triangle consumption, economy and ecology , and shedding light on several aspects: Fashion and Victims, Lack and Abundance, Global and Local, Salary and Earnings, Clothes and Chemistry, Clothes and Eco Backpack.
The second part of the exhibition, still to be developed, has been baptized as The laboratory". Under the title Slow Fashion, they present new possibilities for sustainable clothing production , such as new fibers and technologies, new design approaches for recycling, supra-recycling (or upcycling) or zero waste (zero waist) . In short, what could the ethical wardrobe of the future look like?
fast-fashion is the first exhibition that addresses the "circulatory" system of clothing in an integral, differentiated and critical manner, bringing together for the first time a wide variety of theoretical and practical experts dealing with ecological, economic, ethical, social and creative aspects and, ultimately, they ask themselves the following question: What power does the consumer have?
Furthermore, the exposure will also show pieces at other downtown locations such as the Museum of Decorative Arts and the CLB Berlin Collaboratorium and events, conferences and educational activities will be held.
_(Until August 2, 2020) _
Tim Mitchell, Recycling von Kleidung, 2005
** BALLERINA: FASHION'S MODERN MUSE ** _(The Museum at FIT) _
This is the first large-scale exhibition that illustrates the influences of classical ballet and ballerinas in modern high fashion.
Organized by Patricia Mears, Deputy Director of MFIT , the show features objects ranging from tutu-inspired haute couture dresses to american ready-to-wear designs based on leotards and other ballet practice wear.
A trip around about 90 selected objects from the permanent collection of the MFIT , the Victoria and Albert Museum, the Museum of London, the Fashion Museum Bath, as well as the New York City Ballet, the Dance Theater of Harlem, and the private holdings of fashion collector and publisher Hamish Bowles.
In the section dedicated to evening dresses we find pieces signed by Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain and Charles James that mix with tutus worn by ballerinas like Anna Pavlova and Margot Fonteyn.
The exhibition opens with a section dedicated to footwear, giving way to the main gallery, which houses a costume from the 1919 production Les Sylphides worn by Russian dancer Lydia Lopokova and dresses from the 1930s by Norman Hartnell, from the 1950s by Pierre Balmain and from the 1980s by Christian Lacroix.
A special section is also dedicated to the pink colour , an emblematic shade associated with ballet, which is joined by others such as bluebird blue and lilac.
In addition, there will be a symposium on March 6 with historians and dance experts such as Laura Jacobs, Joel Lobenthal, Jane Pritchard and Lynn Garafola and a panel discussion on February 27.
_(From February 7 to April 19, 2020) _
Black patent leather Fetish Ballerine shoes, 2014
OUTSIDE FASHION: LA PHOTOGRAPHIE DE MODE, DU STUDIO AUX PAYS EXOTIQUES **(1900-1969) ** _(Huis Marseille Museum for Photography, Amsterdam) _
For the first time in Amsterdam, this exhibition shows unique archive material from the Palais Galliera that introduces us to the history of fashion photography between 1900 and 1969: the transition from studio photography to outdoor shooting, technical developments as well as the position of women, tourism and prêt-à-porter fashion.
Thus, they will be exposed unique photographs and magazines that are normally kept in the archives of the french fashion institute , the result of a selection made by Sylvie Lécallier, director of the photography collection of the Palais Galliera.
During this historical tour we will discover how women's bodies gained greater freedom over the years , starting with static poses, wrapped in long dresses and moving on to sports activities, sunbathing or just laughing and walking down the street. At the same time, photography went from black and white to color, and the locations were increasing due to the arrival of world tourism.
We also attended the display of the work of the American photographer Henry Clarke , which is shown in an installation in which his works are projected onto a tropical background.
Outside Fashion will show almost 150 photographs beginning in the year 1900 and going through the works of Jean Moral Henri Manuel, Reutlinger, Séeberger Frères, Dorvyne, Egidio Scaioni or Willy Maywald, among others, who photographed the pieces of firms as important as Balenciaga, Dior, Fath, Hermès, Poiret and Schiaparelli.
_(Until March 8, 2020) _
The model Veruschka, in an Adele Simpson dress by Givenchy, at the Jaipur observatory
IN PURSUIT OF FASHION: THE SANDY SCHREIER COLLECTION _(The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York) _
The collector sandy schreier gathered for more than half a century one of the best private fashion collections in the United States and until May 17, 2020, we will be able to discover how she amassed great treasures of 20th-century French and American haute couture and prêt-à-porter.
"Sandy Schreier's gift, one of the largest in recent history to the Costume Institute, will dramatically enrich the Museum's 20th-century fashion holdings," he said. Max Hollein, Director of the Met.
The exhibit features about 80 of the 165 promised gifts, selected from Schreier's extensive collection by Andrew Bolton, Wendy Yu Curator, and Jessica Regan. In pursuit of fashion will present womenswear, accessories and fashion illustrations dating from a 1908 Pochoir album, Les Robes de Paul Poiret, developed in collaboration with Paul Iribe, to a 2004 Phillip Treacy butterfly hat.
Designers whose works will be included in the exhibition include Cristóbal Balenciaga, Pierre Balmain, Gabrielle Chanel, Jean Dessès, Christian Dior, Mariano Fortuny and Madrazo , Jeanne Margaine-Lacroix, Karl Lagerfeld (for Chloé and his own brand), Jeanne Lanvin, Franco Moschino, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli, Stephen Sprouse and Madeleine Vionnet, among many others.
_(Until May 17) _
Evening dress, summer 29161, Cristóbal Balenciaga for House of Balenciaga
** KIMONO: KYOTO TO CATWALK ** _(Victori & Albert, London) _
This sample presents the kimono as a dynamic and constantly evolving fashion icon while exploring the sartorial, aesthetic, and social significance of clothing from the 1660s to the present day, both in Japan and around the world.
In this exhibition dedicated to the best-known Japanese garment in the world, we will find pieces from the Japanese country but also garments as emblematic as the kimono signed by Alexander McQueen that Björk wore for the cover of Homogenic, in addition to the original Star Wars costumes inspired by the kimono.
We can also see pieces of Yves Saint Laurent and Rei Kawakubo , some of the costumes from the movie Memories of a Geisha or a kimono Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna.
In total, there will be more than 315 pieces, including the kimono made especially for the show, drawn from the superlative collections of the V&A and the rest on loan from museums and private collections in Britain, Europe, America and Japan.
_(From February 29 to June 21, 2020) _
Madonna, Nothing Really Matters video. 1999 New York City. Photo by Frank Micelotta
PRADA. FRONT AND BACK _(Design Museum, London) _
The monographic exhibition of the Italian fashion house will be released in 2020 and will offer an unprecedented view of the creative approach, inspirations and historical collaborations of the firm led by Miuccia Prada.
prada. front and back will explore Prada's transformation of the idea and practice of fashion and the continuous evolution of the company.
The different sections of the sample will present the idea of front and back, showing both the surface of fashion and the creative and industrial infrastructure on which it depends.
Miuccia Prada redefined the way we understand luxury , explored new materials and technologies and passionately invested in art, design and architecture, making the signature the essence of modernity.
To prepare the exhibition, the Deyan Sudjic Design Museum accessed the archives and the headquarters of the Italian house in Milan and although there is still no specific opening date, we know that it will be around September or October 2020.
_(Fall 2020) _
SUSTAINABLE THINKING _(Salvatore Ferragamo Museum, Florence) _
The "sustainability" it refers to the human ability to meet "the needs of the present generation without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs."
This challenge, which is not only limited to production methods, also involves a greater focus on the environment in general. Hence the name of this exhibition: Sustainable thinking, which aims to spread the idea that balance must be restored, starting with a more conscious way of thinking that is capable of generating new development and coexistence strategies.
The purpose of the exhibition is none other than to make people think about these issues from the perspective of art and fashion. The fashion industry jumped on the sustainability bandwagon a few years ago, an initiative led by a new generation of designers.
In addition, luxury brands have been adopting increasingly innovative approaches with a consolidated presence in the market , using new high-performance ecological materials and optimizing production processes.
The exhibition offers an opportunity for artists, fashion designers and manufacturers to offer a plurality of visions that inspire new projects capable of using new technologies instead of submitting to them, of adopting a glocal approach and of safeguarding our ecosystem.
_(Until March 8, 2020) _
Rainbow Future, 2018
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN: THE EXHIBITION (Palais de la Porte Dorée, Paris)
Christian Louboutin's universe will land in Paris next year in an exhibition that will include pieces never before exhibited to the public. More than 300 pairs of shoes wrapped in an immersive context where art and fashion merge into a single discipline with the red sole as the protagonist.
Christian Louboutin: the exhibition will explore each of the facets of the designer's multi-reference work, in a space that has played an important role in his career: the Palais de la Porte Dorée.
His passion for travel is reflected in each of his designs, which draw on a multitude of sources of inspiration: pop culture, theatre, literature, dance, cinema... The exhibition, curated by Olivier Gabet (director of the Museum of Decorative Arts), will house a selection of the most precious pieces from the designer's personal collection as well as loans from other public collections.
_(From February 20 to July 20, 2020) _
** ABOUT TIME: FASHION AND DURATION ** _(The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York) _
The theme of the MET 2020 gala It was unveiled last November 7 before a great expectation. This year, the event will be inspired by the play Orlando by Virginia Woolf and It will be about the passage of time in the history of fashion.
And together with the gala, the exhibition that can be visited from May 7, 2020, About Time: Fashion and Duration, showcasing more than a century and a half of fashion, from 1870 to the present , along a disruptive timeline, as part of the Met's 150th anniversary celebration.
Coining Henri Bergson's concept of durée (duration), you will explore how clothing generates temporal associations that combine past, present and future. Virginia Woolf being the "ghost narrator" of the exhibition.
A linear chronology of fashion composed of black sets will spread throughout the exhibition reflecting the progressive time scale of modernity and highlighting the fast and fleeting pace of fashion.
The interruption of this timeline will come from the hand of a series of counter-chronologies composed of white sets , before or after those in black, which are related to each other through shape, motif, material, pattern, technique or decoration.
For example, a black princess line dress from the late 1870s will be paired with a 1995 Alexander McQueen "Bumster" skirt , and a black ensemble from the mid-1880s will be juxtaposed with a Body Meets dress by Comme des Garçons. The exhibition will conclude with a section on the future of fashion , which links the concept of duration with debates on longevity and sustainability.
_(As of May 7) _
Surreal, David Bailey