Until five or six years ago, the cheese was that, cheese . Without more conceptions or philosophies than those of a food to which we are more than accustomed. In Madrid, everything began to change when the specialized cheese shop appeared, Quesería Cultivo . Surprised and curious, customers approached his counter eager to try the jewels from Spanish producers that went off the radar of large surfaces and that they discovered a lost authenticity. A discourse between the origin and the final consumer began to flow since then, so necessary to learn to appreciate something that was taken for granted.
Clara Díez, owner of Formaje.
Clara Diez and Adrian Pellejo , two of the partners and members of the management team of Quesería Cultivo, they debut with a new project whose physical space embellishes the Plaza de Chamberí, 9 under the name of Formaje , a word of Castilian origin, now in disuse, which refers to the mold used to shape the cheese. "We needed explore new platforms, a new way of understanding cheese ", explains Díez about the way in which Formaje will be its base of operations, not only as a space for sale to the public –and soon an online store–, but also as a a place to communicate it, to generate experiences and links with many other disciplines.
The tempting counter of the store, in Plaza de Chamberí.
"We are dedicated to cheese but what moves us is a work philosophy, which is what we want to tell you about. In recent years I have been in contact with people from different disciplines who share a way of understanding it and this space will be the place where they will be able to be shared , whether in interviews, tastings or podcasts ... ", she continues. That is also why have been linked to Bastida Studio for the design of their uniforms and with Cobalt Studio for store design , in which natural elements such as wood or stone stand out.
Yes before the focus of his work was national crafts Now they go one step further. "We have the feeling that the word 'craft' does not have the same value as before and that even artisans have come to accommodate themselves in this term to give importance to their cheeses". For Clara and Adrián, the sector to which they put all their hearts has evolved but also needs a little self-criticism.
Formaje store facade.
"When we started in 2014 it was time to value that term, but the market and society evolve very quickly and we believe that we are at a time when defining oneself as 'craftsman' is no longer enough ", he continues. "Now there are more platforms where you can get a good product, large surfaces that already have –and that they previously ignored– certain cheeses that are very interesting," he declares. That is why they have their sights set on betting on those producers who do not rely exclusively on "crafts" . "They are and they have it but we will focus more on excellence: What does the producer do to achieve it? How do they add value? Whether with its raw material, the care of its animals, the contribution to its territory or the way in which it represents the singularities of its environment ", she recounts.
The wonderful Formaje cheeses.
The cheeses found in Formaje are natural and made with their own bacteriology , unlike many other producers who use freeze-dried ferments that can be purchased. "This in no way makes them less artisans, but it does flatten the added value or uniqueness they may have, preventing the bactereology of the territory in which they are produced from manifesting," he tells us. In addition, most of the producers they work with have own livestock and grazing animals.
So they bet on an amazing Ossau Iraty, made by two brothers in the Basque Country with a limited production . "They are not used to exporting or making shipments. It is a mountain cheese factory that sells everything to the people of the town, the quota is very closed, so it is a luxury for us to be able to have it," says Clara. EITHER a very delicate Mare Nostrum, made in the mountains of Seville . "It is one of those projects in which the value added to their products is more similar to what they do in other places in Europe. They sell it above the prices of cheeses of its type in Spain, but it is a effort on his part to show people that what they are going to eat is something very special, made with very specific milk and livestock", he continues while showing us one of his favourites: the Queixo do País, made in Palas de Rei, in Lugo . "It is a very simple cheese, they do not use ferments: just milk, rennet and salt". A traditional Galician recipe, simple and homemade.
Address: Plaza de Chamberí, 6, Madrid See map
Telephone: +34919209073
Schedule: From Monday to Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and from 5:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.; Saturdays from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.