You keep visiting Comporta, we keep this secret
10 kilometers from the coast (about 7.5 miles), the waters of the Atlantic are an intense blue, so opaque that you cannot see the bottom. They are also more turquoise, green at times and even crystal clear when they approach the cliffs of the Berlengas Islands.
10 kilometers from peniche , the Atlantic beats, affectionate on good days and furious and impracticable on stormy ones, against the rocks of this archipelago , our traveling serendipity this summer.
Because yes, while you, dear globetrotter, continue opting for the long sandy beaches of Comporta or the coves of the Algarve, We are left with this secret that we promise to take care of as it deserves: with respect and in petit committee.
The water here looks impossible colors
A Big brindle , the largest island in the archipelago and the only one that can be visited out of the three that make it up, is reached after an excursion of about 45 minutes by boat from the port of Peniche.
There are different shipping companies that cover the journey, but the authenticity that is sold so expensive these days is at the expense of of Mr. Julius and the ship he commands. He is around 20 years old, the ship, not Mr. Julius who has a few more and most of them spent at sea.
In fact, it was he himself who built his ship that has four bedrooms, kitchen, living room and bathroom , explains David F. Barata, the guide of ** Around Lisbon Tours **, the company that organizes the excursion from Lisbon.
He tries to place you in the bow, in one of the colorful poufs that dot it and, while the loudspeaker ululates the greatest hits of yesterday and today, you focus on the horizon. On calm sea days there are those who have seen dolphins
And yes, it is possible that the postcard loses magic if it is Abba, and not the sound of the waves, which is heard in the background, but, do not deny it, the musical compliment has caught you off guard and will even make you laugh.
At your feet, the island and the Fishermen's quarter
Little by little, Berlenga Grande ceases to be a promise to become a reality. Imposing cliffs that emerge from the water, caves, arches, rocks and islets They will make you thank thousands of years of geological transformation and that phenomenon of erosion that you studied boringly in school and today you have finally understood.
When arriving at the port, among the shades of pink granite that predominates on the island, the little white houses perched on the hillside. The area is a place fishermen and they are the owners of these small buildings that, made up of a kitchen and a room, They have the basics to live. And it is that, as they explain to us, they keep what is important on the boat, authentic floating homes.
once on land, Two routes for hikers invite you to walk the kilometer and a half that the island measures. Don't frown because Berlenga applies that the best essences are kept in small bottles.
Natural Reserve of the Biosphere by UNESCO, along your walk you will come across much of the fauna and Flora that earned him consideration. Madeira storm-petrel, guillemot, peregrine falcons, Berlenga lizard, seagulls... So many seagulls that the soundtrack of the island, once you gain height and move away from the sea, is your thing.
Be careful, and here the guides will get serious, with going off the beaten track. Firstly, because we would destroy this habitat with our footsteps and, secondly, because if it is the breeding season we would run the risk of being attacked by some frightened seagulls that they would feel their nests were in danger.
Be careful not to go off the beaten track
Our tour, Berlenga Tour , transits between Berlenga and Ilha Velha, the two parts into which the island is divided, and leads us to the Forte de São João Baptista.
After leaving the Fishermen's Quarter behind and negotiating a short but steep ascent, we pass in front of the lighthouse of the Duke of Bragança, active since the mid-nineteenth century. From the esplanade it occupies, at the highest point of the island, the entire environment is dominated and on clear days you can even see the profile of Nazaré.
Our destination is four strides and a steep descent, using steps carved into the hillside, away. The spectacle of contrasts with which the sun delights us as it falls on the water and the structure of the fort will set your camera on fire.
Cross the bridge, if you dare jump into the water from its arcades, and reach the entrance to the Forte de São João Baptista, which It was built in the 17th century, carving its silhouette directly into a huge rock. Its few and small windows and a single entrance door, which was isolated from the island thanks to a drawbridge, made it a an almost impregnable square in the southeast of the island.
You will find the best photo of the island here
There are many stories of pirates, corsairs and battles that are told, but, without a doubt, the favorite is the one that involves a Spanish squad of thousands of troops and a score of Portuguese soldiers, which caused hundreds of casualties in the Hispanic ranks before succumbing with a single loss.
And it is that the Forte de São João Baptista has lived a long time: from a defensive point on the Peniche peninsula to a prison, only to later fall into abandonment and, currently, end up functioning as the hostel in which anyone would want to spend the night.
Because yes, Berlenga Grande well deserves more than one day in its domains to walk it, but also to dive it and to skirting its shores, in a kayak or aboard a glass-bottomed boat with a seductive seabed that allows us to closely contemplate the spectacle of geology turned into an island.
Thus, shovel in hand, one crosses the waters at the foot of its cliffs, approaching until almost touching the rock formation that bears the name Head of the Elephant , enters the Blue Grotto and play dip your hands in the water to see how they change color, and delve into other caves and crevices experiencing the wonder of feeling so small among so much beauty.
Skirting its contour in a kayak is well worth another day on the island
We talk a lot about its beauty and its color, but we rarely bathe in **some waters not suitable for Mediterraneans (because of the cold)**. What we did dare to do, very brave of us, was to take advantage of the pool of water that the Atlantic had become at the end of the day to sit on the bow of the ship, with our feet dangling over the water and be enchanted by the promise of Peniche on the horizon.
Have you seen how the sky is reflected in the water in Life of Pi? Well, that, you continue opting for the long sandy beaches of Comporta or the coves of the Algarve, that we are left with this picture.
HOW TO GET
Plane to Lisbon: TAP Air Portugal offers direct flights to the Portuguese capital from eleven Spanish cities (Madrid, Barcelona, Vigo, A Coruña, Asturias, Bilbao, Alicante, Valencia, Malaga, Seville and Gran Canaria). You can check schedules and offers through Flytap.com.
Day trips with Around Lisbon Tours from 68 euros. Includes transportation by van from Lisbon to Peniche, boat trip to the island, hiking with a guide, and departure by kayak or boat. Return to Lisbon.
WHEN TO GO
It is recommended to visit Berlenga Grande between June and September. Outside of that period, the roughness of the ocean makes journeys difficult.
From prison to hostel for travelers
WHERE TO EAT
The Sea & Sun Restaurant and its bar overlook the ocean and its menu is dominated by proposals from the sea and traditional Portuguese cuisine. On the island there is also a tiny supermarket where you can buy what you need for a picnic on the beach.
WHERE TO SLEEP
- Sao Joao Baptista Fort
It offers two types of accommodation: bedrooms located in the main building of the fort with capacity for two, three, four or six people; Y small rooms in the wall for one or two guests. Each client has to bring their bedding or jacket, pillowcases and towels. The bathrooms are communal and are shared between four rooms. There is a kitchen available to guests, although you can always go to the fort's bar.
Price: from 35 euros/night (three or more nights) . From 45 euros/night (one or two nights). Renting bed linen and towels on the spot has a surcharge of 5 euros per person. Card payments are not accepted.
- Camping
To camp on Berlenga Island, you must reserve the desired space by sending an email to the address [email protected] in which the name, telephone number, capacity of the store to be installed, arrival and departure dates, DNI and origin are indicated.
Price: from 10.30 euros per night in a tent for two people. Card payments are not accepted.
Campsite with views of the horizon