Plemmirio Spa
The 2,750 years of history boasted by the city of Syracuse, on the southeast coast of Sicily, They make the perfect prelude to the extraordinary madness of visiting it. And even then, you don't expect it. The classic images of chaotic Sicilian cities full of charm, on the edge of the abyss of time, like Palermo or its neighbor Catania, evaporate to make way with reverence for this city-a gift for the senses.
Cradle of Mediterranean civilization and culture, it became more important than Athens and Corinth, and was aptly described by Cicero as “the largest and most beautiful Greek city”. It is not for less, the incredible amalgamation of historical remains that it conserves from the passage of Greeks, Romans, Normans, Byzantines, Arabs and Aragonese impresses, but so does the fact that today it stands again as culturally active center.
Crypt and catacombs of San Giovanni, from the 6th century
It is no coincidence that events such as the Ortigia Film Festival, the excellent Made Labs for design and architecture, or the eclectic Ortigia Sound System, for music, are held here, pending new dates this year. We warn that trying to assimilate so much in one day is counterproductive for the soul and heart of the good traveler.
The journey begins with the jewel in the crown and the original seat of the city: the island of ortygia . Founded in the 734 BC As a Corinthian settlement, it takes its name from a nickname for Artemis. After crossing the Ponte Umbertino, a shocking light forces you to close your eyes for a few seconds to adapt to the beauty of this unique historic island of pristine white stones, with the sea embracing every corner and a leisurely pace that invites you to explore it intuitively.
The remains of the Doric Temple of Apollo and Piazza Archimides, dedicated to the mathematician and prodigal son of the city, with its fountain of Diana presiding, they put us in context. The imposing, diaphanous and baroque Piazza del Duomo with its cathedral from the s. XVI built on the temple of Athena, the church of Santa Lucia alla Badia and an enviable list of palaces with that of Beneventano del Bosco at the head.
Tasting a brioche with ice cream down the street, by the sea, the Fonte de Aretusa, a freshwater spring with as many myths as papyrus plants it has inside. Turn to the east to plunge into a bacchanal of Syracusan flavors, volcanic wines and pleasant conversations with locals in the picturesque Mercato di Ortigia.
Views from the sea of Maniace Castle
We leave behind our idyllic islet to go up to the Neapolis Archaeological Park. they receive us the largest greek theater in the world and its impressive views. Among the leafy vegetation we discover the latomías and its famous Ear of Dionysus, the Altar of Hieron and the Roman Amphitheater. We close this wing of Syracuse by visiting the Paolo Orsi Archaeological Museum, the church of San Giovanni or the enigmatic, with almost extraterrestrial shapes, sanctuary della Madonna delle Lacrime.
We return to our beloved Ortigia to a well-deserved dip in Forte Vigliena and a Pomeridian passeggiata through Castello Maniace. It remains to find a terrace in the Lungomare Alfeo. Spritz in hand –before delighting ourselves with a Syracusan pasta– we let the sun set before us. The level of enjoyment rises and sounds in our head This must be the place.
connection with Franco Battiato, the Sicilian David Byrne, is inevitable and we proceed to hum Il sentimento nuovo: "It's beautiful to get lost in this miracle." A hot hit dedicated to jovial love throughout the history of mankind that could well have been a love letter to Ortigia.
Everything fits, if not ask him himself Erlend Oye (former member of Kings Of Convenience and The Whitest Boy Alive) who, although the idea of him a priori seemed an antipodal in itself, decided to move to Syracuse eight years and he tells us that he is still here, happy.
HOW TO GET
Vueling
The connection from Madrid and Barcelona to Catania-Fontanarossa airport it is frequent and direct (from €80). Syracuse is only 45 minutes away.
Inside view of the Ear of Dionysus, a latomy of the Neapolis Archaeological Park
WHERE TO SLEEP
Grand Hotel Ortygia Syracuse
A historic five-star hotel with a 130-year history, wrapped in a charming Liberty style of aristocratic heritage. It has dream views of the sea, an upmarket restaurant and even a private beach.
Capportigia Boutique Hotel
Boutique hotel located in an old residence opposite the Forum of Syracuse, in the heart of the historic center. It stands out for its careful interior design and a pleasant solarium with panoramic views. Not forgetting its excellent restaurant, Il Tiranno, one of the most creative in the city.
Ortea Luxury Palace
Palace of 1920 in which to feel like a celebrity. As soon as you cross Ponte Umbertino, The first monument that catches our attention is this five-star accommodation, as luxurious as baroque. It has it all and more.
WHERE TO EAT
Oz & Cappuccino
“A place of worship for fresh fish” in its most uninhibited version. With street classics like the chips or poke bowls with a fine Asian twist. It's 100% plastic-free and Oz is the former German-Polish bassist for the band Whitest Boy Alive.
Fratelli Burgio
In 1978, Pippo Burgio opened his delicatessen to keep alive the local culinary tradition. His philosophy is maintained thanks to the Laboratory, where They make preserves, cheeses, smoked foods, wines and their award-winning caponata. Try them at their salumeria in the market or at the new place in the port.
Tasting of artisanal products in the 'salumeria' Fratelli Burgio
Maniace Ortygia
In Piazza D'Armi, overlooking the castle and the bay, is this modern and versatile cocktail bar that is open from dawn to dusk. Ideal for a classic Italian aperitif while you enjoy your live music programming
Caseificio Borderi
Don't you dare leave Syracuse without having tried the best, without a doubt, panini in the whole world. And take the opportunity to observe with great devotion how the great Andrea Borderi, because it is a real culinary show.
This report was published in the number 140 of the Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (July-August) . Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website). The Condé Nast Traveler summer issue is available at its digital version to enjoy it on your favorite device.
Local fishermen across the bay from Siracusa, in the Isola area, with Ortigia in the background