When in 2005 The New York Times presented Girona as a paradise for cyclists some had to spend some time looking for it on the map. Spending 48 hours in Girona, home for four years of Lance Armstrong , which is why the city reached the ears of the American press, is not only a great plan for lovers of two wheels. They find here a perfect corner to escape to train and buy kit in the numerous specialized shops that populate its streets but also foodies will consecrate the palate.
In the end, who does not know the Roca brothers? World ambassadors of Spanish gastronomy, Joan, Josep and Jordi not only do magic in their tri-starred The cellar of Can Roca , also in the rest of the gastronomic synergies that continue to open in his hometown. But we'll talk about that later. Let's go by parts. What does Girona have? Much. Perfect for a getaway, this small, welcoming and perfectly walkable town will win you over if you like history, nature and architecture.
Wall of Girona.
THE ORIGIN OF EVERYTHING: A WALK THROUGH THE WALL
In some streets that hide more than two thousand years of history , there is no better starting point to discover Girona than from its wall. And we say from because, literally, you can walk on its walls like vigilant warriors.
In fact, from the union of the commercial route between Rome and Cádiz in Roman times, Girona was born as a castrum , that is, a military enclave that would help ensure peace on the Via Augusta. With a peculiar triangular plan given its orography, these Roman walls would be enlarged in medieval times, but there are still vestiges of the place that was known by the Romans as Gerunda.
In fact, the extension of the Roman walls in medieval times allows today stroll along the old coastal path and tour the longest stretches of Carolingian wall in Europe (9th century). The various towers that mark it out are authentic privileged viewpoints about the city and its surroundings.
This is a first reconnaissance tour of Girona that, without haste, deserves two stops in particular: the Gardens of the Wall, which are in the lower part of the city, almost next to the river Oñar, and the so-called German Garden , an idyllic green corner full of legends that acted as a barracks, that is, as the home of german mercenary soldiers who were settled here in the 17th century.
Old town of Girona.
JUMP TO THE MEDIEVAL
From this upper part of Girona, a short walk through narrow streets will bring you face to face with the Cathedral . The enormous baroque staircase that leads to the main portico of this Gothic jewel is worth the climb, because inside it awaits the widest vaulted gothic space in the world , four meters more than the Vatican, the next on the list.
As an anecdote: they were three hundred years of construction, with fifty years of anger because those in charge could not agree on an interior with or without columns. Without a doubt, the anger and the waiting time were worth it, as it shows the open space where to fall in love with its cloister, the altarpiece of the Main Chapel and its tombs.
Jewish quarter, Girona.
The descent from this part of the city leads inexorably to getting lost in its jewish quarter , with La Força as the main street of the Jewish quarter. whatever it was the old Via Augusta houses the oldest houses in Girona and, as a fact, it was here where Armstrong lived.
Here awaits the Museum of the History of the Jews, installed on what was the third and last synagogue of the Jewish quarter of Girona and which offers a full tour for the main aspects of the life and history of the Jews of Girona. Special mention also requires a patio that, although closed to the public, can be glimpsed from outside to discover a rehabilitation winner of a Contemporary Architecture Award.
Before continuing the route, also look at the entrance to the Carrer de Sant Llorenç alley at the hinges who remember that there was a time here when a gate closed the jewish quarter to the rest of the city. And if you like design, you cannot leave this area without getting lost in what was the old House of the Accountant of the Cathedral , today converted into an elegant store with contemporary furniture called Pabordia.
A COFFEE IN PARIS
Wait at the end of La Força one of the most magical corners of Girona. Because the group that forms the Church of Sant Martí Sacosta and the Palace of the Agullana on the stairs of the Pujada de Sant Domènec It's pure romance. In fact, if fatigue sets in, the neighbor Cafe Le Bistrot It is an icon in the city. Historical place, its terrace in the Stairs of Saint Martin will transport you directly to Montmartre (until you order one of its traditional vermouths or its delicious menu of homemade food).
Full stomach, it's time to move on. Walking down Calle Ciutadans, where the beautiful medieval palace of the Fontana d'Or , art takes center stage in the cultural rooms of the Fundació Caixa Girona (Carrer dels Ciutadans, 19).
MEMORIES OF FLORENCE AND MODERNISM
And it is also time to surrender to architecture. in the busy promenade wait Masó House (Carrer de les Ballesteries, 29), one of the most important works of architecture by Rafael Masó and the only one open to the public of the famous colored houses of Girona. Because the day could not end without enjoying one of the most photographed images of Girona: its colorful houses that end in the river.
Gerona.
From the "grey city" that Josep Pla used to say there's nothing left. A municipal remodeling plan in 1983 led to the recovery of this part of the city where today it is full of color and reminiscent of Florence. By the way, if the image is taken from a colorful red bridge, You must know that the signature is Eiffel's. It was the year 1877 (seven years before the arrival of the Eiffel Tower) when the iron master's construction company built this bridge in Girona.
With the sun already sleeping, it's time to sit back and enjoy. Girona Nome (Pujada de la Mercè, 10) waits in a idyllic chess floor living room between palatial walls in the heart of the old town of Girona. The group that was born in Barcelona and arrived in Madrid a little over a year ago recently opened a new establishment here.
In addition to a japanese fusion cuisine that never fails, the restaurant has one of the best patios of Girona. Its hundred-year-old trees, the sound of the fountain and intimate lighting ensure a magical evening to the sound of the creations of the Chef Naoyuki Haginoya.
A wonderful brunch is also served on the hotel terrace.
SLEEP BETWEEN COCOA
After four years of reform, in 2020 it opened its doors a new business of Jordi Roca together with his sister-in-law Anna Payet: a boutique hotel, shop, bakery and chocolate shop baptized as cocoa house . Only 15 rooms next to Plaça Catalunya make this hotel a desired asset for many but not within everyone's reach (between 250-300 euros per night).
Four plants that smell of cocoa and from whose terrace the wall and the Cathedral return the view while serving a hard-to-forget breakfast. Now, if availability or the wallet do not allow it, another interesting alternative in the city is the central Hotel Ciutat de Girona & Apartments.
48 HOURS IN GIRONA, DAY 2: A WALK OUTSIDE THE WALLS
Dawn breaks and the second day begins. The Cacao house coffee shop accepts both guests and visitors. And no, there is nothing better than pampering yourself with Roca signature to start the day. In fact, It is usually bursting since it opened. With the taste of candy still in our mouths, we take a tour of the neighboring University and the campus of the Barrio Viejo to enjoy the daily hustle and bustle of the area before surrendering to the calm that the archaeological walk outside the walls provides.
Also Known As Archaeological Walk , a pleasant walk allows you to discover the Arab baths , whose visit allows you to discover the most complete building of its kind in Catalonia, and the medieval church of Sant Pere de Galligants , today converted into the Archeology Museum of Catalonia. Next to it, the little Romanesque jewel d e Sant Nicolau closes a set paralyzed in time.
Chapel of San Narciso, Basilica of San Félix, Girona.
KISSING THE ASS OF A LIONESS AND OTHER LEGENDS
Back in the city, before continuing the route, don't forget to greet, next to the Pont de Sant Feliu, The lioness , a sculpture that has become a symbol of the city that hides a tradition: if you want to return to Girona, you must kiss the animal her buttocks. Of course, for COVID reasons, today this practice is eliminated. Still, you shouldn't leave without paying your respects.
Your neighbor waits also the germ of another legend of the city. Moreover, it could be said that it is the capitalized symbol of the people of Girona. We talk about Saint Narcissus , patron saint of the city buried in the Basilica of San Felix (Carrer Trasfigueres, 4).
The locals say that this Roman martyr lay in peace when in the 13th century the French arrived with Philip the Bold to plunder Girona. Opening his grave a “plague” of flies “as big as acorns” came out and killed the invaders, according to the medieval chronicler Bernat Desclot. In fact, this feat is celebrated every October 29 and the flies are the animals that can be seen on the coat of arms of Girona.
SHOPPING
It's time to return to the hustle and bustle of the center to enjoy, now with daylight, the arcades of the Rambla de la Llibertat , another of the great references of Girona. A map of Paris from 1835 painted on the ceiling of one of the arcades recalls that La Rambla was and continues to be key when it comes to shopping.
In fact, the drawing that can still be seen was made by a store at the beginning of the 19th century as an attraction for its customers, eager to want to follow the Parisian fashion. Epicenter of the guilds, it is worth forgetting about the map for a few moments to simply wander among these cobbled streets. Of course, that in the walk do not miss Geli (Carrer de l'Argenteria, 18), a bookshop historical whose floor is, literally, pavement of sidewalk connecting two streets.
Finishing in the Plaza de la Independencia, one of the busiest in the city, to take a vermouth in one of its many terraces , it's time to eat. In fact, the culinary stop of rigor leads us to debate between several names. Because in Girona you eat well. That's a fact.
Normal, by the Roca brothers, Girona.
Since the breva that remains will not fall a free table at Celler de Can Roca last minute, it is worth remembering that the Roca opened last September Normal, a restaurant in the old quarter led by Eli Nolla with local cuisine with dishes such as a rabbit kidney sandwich with sherry, a sticky pigeon rice or beef tail with marrow.
Another interesting option is Marietta House, centennial restaurant where you can surrender to home cooking (roast lamb, duck with pears...) with about forty dishes to choose from, as well as seasonal ones. And if you're for brunch, Factory it will be your place Opened in 2015 by the Canadian cyclist Christian Meier, here you will find a perfect haven that is committed to healthy diets and heart-stopping coffee.
MUSEUMS FOR ALL TASTES
Girona has seven museums in which a heritage as valuable as it is varied is exhibited. Depending on the time available and the tastes of each one, you can end the day in the Jewish History Museum to discover the history of the medieval Jewish communities of Catalonia; in the Film Museum and his valuable collection Thomas Mallol from pre-cinema to current cinema; or in the aforementioned Masó House.
We also find the Museum of the History of Girona and the Museum of Archaeology, as well as the Museum of Art and the Museum-Treasure of the Cathedral. There is also no lack of other initiatives such as Bolit: center of contemporary art, with three locations scattered around the city where you can discover exhibitions, guided tours, educational programs and workshops for all ages.