The beautiful Sierra Mágina or how to show that Jaén is much more than olive trees
With an important record of the best extra virgin olive oils in the province, the towns of Sierra Mágina discover that the province of Jaén is something more than olive trees and olives.
"In Jaén there is nothing but olive trees." How many times have we heard this bold statement when crossing the Despeñaperros pass? It almost hammers as much as saying that in La Mancha there are only windmills and cheeses or that in Galicia they have scallop empanadas for breakfast every day.
In the heart of Jaén, we have visited the most unusual places of Sierra Mágina, the spectacular green soul of Jaén that has a declared space Natural Park since 1989.
Through its ancient lands crossed the Route of the Nasrids , Historical and Monumental Heritage that linked the Navas de Tolosa with the Kingdom of Granada, the scene of hundreds of battles and the reason why it is r The region is full of fortifications and castles.
In Sierra Mágina, Jaén stops looking dry and allows abundant water to sprout everywhere , redecorating the landscape with small green oases and fabulous routes for mountaineering enthusiasts.
MIRAMUNDOS SHELTER
Possibly one of the most spectacular views of Sierra Mágina and higher altitude (2,077 meters above sea level).
It is located in one of the routes most frequented by mountain lovers, the Magic Peak (the highest in the province with 2,165 meters above sea level), playing with the Gargantón riverbed and the ravine that guides it.
The possibility of see the orography of practically the entire province It is quite a spectacle for the human eye, a good reward for those who reach Miramundos.
The route usually begins by going up the ravine from the town of Belmez de la Moraleda , although there are more alternative paths.
** PICTURE PLACE (BEDMAR) **
It is, without a doubt, one of the must-see places in Sierra Mágina. Go through its impossible picnic areas and observe a landscape almost more typical of Central Europe, makes you think that it is completely unlikely to be in the province of Jaén.
This treasure of nature, located just 4 kilometers from the town of Bedmar, keeps inside one of the largest oleander forests in all of Europe (about 2 kilometers long), winding its blue (and icy) waters through caves that are tangles of furious and exuberant nature.
In this green enclave, which hides caves and winding paths, is the Sanctuary of the Virgin of Cuadros , surrounded by pine trees and guarded by an imposing keep that has stood alert since the 11th century, in connection with Bedmar Castle. The area has a good supply of rural houses to stay.
**THE PATH OF THE CHERRY TREES IN BLOSSOM OF TORRES (TORRES) **
Along with Albanchez de Mágina, towers It is one of the towns most photographed by tourists for its characteristic situation in the mountains.
It has a unique microclimate, very rainy with pleasant temperatures, which allows proliferation of cherry trees throughout the valley.
At this time of year, Jaén has its particular Hanami , because the outskirts of the municipality are dressed in a white blanket of cherry trees in bloom, which is a true festival for the eyes. No need to go to Japan.
Pinar de Canavas
This show can be enjoyed Making the route to the Fuenmayor spring , a place surrounded by poplars, almond trees and cherry trees. Along the way, you can stop at the Zurreón waterfall, with waters so cold that they freeze in winter completely due to the very low temperatures that this area reaches during that season.
** CANAVA PINE FOREST (JIMENA) **
Starting from the hermitage of Cánava, home of the patron saint of the town of Jimena, we can trace a route through the Pinar de Cánava, a green space of Aleppo pine declared a Natural Monument by the Junta de Andalucía in 2001.
This peculiar forest is one of the few that are more than two centuries old in Andalusia, and rises a well marked path and ideal for lovers of hiking.
Going up to the massif, you can visit the Cave of the Farm, a cavity almost sculpted in the limestone of the hill inside whose interior, now protected with a fence, Neolithic cave paintings are observed that reveal some scenes of everyday life. It was declared a Historical Monument in 1924.
The panoramic views of the mountains from the top of the hill are simply priceless.
**SOURCE OF THE ARBUNIEL RIVER (ARBUNIEL) **
The town of Arbuniel, a district of the municipality of Cambil, has its origin in the source of the river that bears the same name.
Source of the river Arbuniel
The melody of the falling water is part of the soundtrack of this small corner of the province of Jaén that grew up around this wonder of nature.
The small waterfalls In their day they were vital as the engine of the grain and oil mills, when the machinery did not understand fuels and pollution.
It currently houses a peaceful picnic area, suitable for a fantastic picnic or simply for a stop along the way on some of the mountain routes.
**HÚTAR LOCATION (ALBANCHEZ DE MÁGINA) **
Again the birth of a stream is what causes the appearance of this whim of nature, a green and wild oasis between hills and olive groves.
The birth of Hutar River , thanks to the melting of the snows of the mount, is recreated in the environment in the form of waterfalls and sinuous lagoons with crystal clear and pure waters , which in their day helped the flour mills that produced for the town of Albanchez de Mágina.
Located between walnut and chestnut trees on the slopes of the Mount Aznaitín , is currently a small recreational complex to enjoy nature and a gastronomic offer quite prominent. It is a clear example that Jaén is much more than olive groves.
ROUTE OF THE CASTLES
The towns of Sierra Mágina are also quite an attractive claim for those who seek to visit centennial castles , although many of them are in ruins.
These are the main ones:
- Cambil Castle: located in the town of Cambil , is about a 13th century castle , from the time of the Nasrids, which was conquered by the infante Don Pedro, uncle of Alfonso XI El Justiciero in the year 1315. Its access is free and it is not the only one in the town, since in the west stands what remains of Alhabar Castle, from the 13th century and also in a dilapidated state.
- Jodar Castle: located within the same urban area of the town, it is a defensive fortification that was adapting to the tenants that it had during its centuries of existence. Regarded as the oldest castle in Andalusia, despite the fact that he had great protagonism with the Muslims, its origin is in Iberian Spain. Declared a Historical Monument since 1985, currently It houses the Reception and Interpretation Center of the Sierra Mágina Natural Park.
-Bedmar Castle: watching over the town from its privileged height, the castle of the town of Bedmar dates from 1411 , when the Order of Santiago sought a defensive enclave against the Kingdom of Granada and to replace the old fortress. The views from its location are simply spectacular.
bedmar castle
- Castle of Albanchez de Mágina: without a doubt, one of the most impressive and picturesque in the region. Of dubious origin, it was a highly valuable defensive and strategic position as it was built on the imposing escarpment on which it is located. Despite the fact that it has been in ruins for more than 200 years, it is an almost Olympic task to reach the top through its many steps. Can you imagine how they tried to conquer it in the fifteenth century without those steps? Complicated…
- Jimena Castle: the conservation work that has been done with its castle in the town of Jimena is almost a work of art. The colossal Torre del Homenaje dates from the 10th century and was a fortress of clear defensive interest. With the arrival of the Christian hegemony, the castle became a stately residence and was remodeled on several occasions. It was a home until a little over two decades ago and it is Historical Monument since 1985.
** THE FACES OF BÉLMEZ (BÉLMEZ DE MORALEDA) **
Putting a small dose of friquism, the towns of Sierra Mágina hide one of the paranormal milestones that most shook the 20th century and that caused the pilgrimage of thousands of lovers of the occult to this small town in Jaén: the faces of Belmez.
The mystery of the faces of Belmez
In August 1971, the neighbor of number 5 of Calle Real assured that on the floor of her kitchen there appeared a stain in the shape of a human face. Although they covered it with plaster, the stain reappeared.
Over time new faces appeared in different places of the dwelling, in some cases even changing its own morphology. Public opinion exploded and, to this day, the subject is still being investigated.
The house can be visited with prior notice, accepting donations, obviously. Iker Jiménez has this case among his favorites. Chilling.